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    Recommend a Noob Soldering Kit

    Ideally looking for a kit I can buy on Amazon or at Harbor freight. I’ve been looking but getting confused. Wattage, max temperature, type of solder, etc. No mention on any of the kits on what type of solder they include. Lead, lead free. Rosin core is a term I’ve seen. Would ideally be nice to find a kit with everything I would need for light soldering jobs in the bike, other projects. for around $30?

    I have a soldering gun, but don’t think it’s precise enough (fine enough point?). I’ve used it only a few times to fix some various electronics but really have no idea what I’m doing. Think it was my dads. Don’t remember buying it. Watched some videos but found none that mention wattage and temp, etc.

    Looking to learn.

    Help a noob out? Links most appreciated.

    TIA
    Rich
    1982 GS 750TZ
    2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

    BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
    Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

    #2
    60 Sn and 40 Pb works well. Rosin core.

    Can't help you with what soldering iron but I can say I used a $30 weller for years and it was a POS. Just got a Hakko and it was some of the best money I've ever spent on a tool. It literally heats up fully in about 10 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      I'm a long-time user of Antex irons, but there's a flood of cheap'n cheerful irons on the market now, most of which won't electrocute you.
      For fine stuff, a 15w iron, for normal sized automotive soldering, a 25 to 30w one is what you need.
      When soldering joints that you've crimped just make sure that solder doesn't creep up the strands of the cable, as it will fail through vibration later.
      Oh yeah, avoid lead-free - it's crap and harder to work with. Plenty of sources of the older standard 60/40 rosin cored stuff around if you look on ebay.
      ---- Dave
      79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
      80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
      79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
      92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

      Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        60 Sn and 40 Pb works well. Rosin core.

        Can't help you with what soldering iron but I can say I used a $30 weller for years and it was a POS. Just got a Hakko and it was some of the best money I've ever spent on a tool. It literally heats up fully in about 10 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Ed, you’re stretching my memory of HS Chemistry periodic table Sn=Tin60%/Pb=lead 40%. Rosin Core. Got it. Not sure if I can swing the Hakko, bit it does seem like top of the line. Father’s Day is coming up, so just maybe.

        Originally posted by Grimly View Post
        I'm a long-time user of Antex irons...
        When soldering joints that you've crimped just make sure that solder doesn't creep up the strands of the cable....
        Dave, the Antex irons look good too, some come without tips, I think I’m seeing?
        How does one keep the solder from creeping past the end of the insulation? Is this a result of temp too high/low, or wattage too high/low, too much solder?
        Rich
        1982 GS 750TZ
        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

        Comment


          #5
          We used Pace equipment where I worked. (Circuit board assembly for over 30 years). I salvaged a broken station years ago out of the trash, and fixed it.
          Anyway, if you are searching eBay, look at the Pace stuff also. Very solid, although maybe too costly.

          Keep in mind, a good station, will heat up faster, have adjustable temps, and will just plain works better, than a pencil type.

          And yes, 60/40 or 63/37 works. Rosin is OK, but I prefer a good no clean flux for long term use.
          Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
          '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
            Dave, the Antex irons look good too, some come without tips, I think I’m seeing?
            How does one keep the solder from creeping past the end of the insulation? Is this a result of temp too high/low, or wattage too high/low, too much solder?
            The basic Antex (of whatever size) usually comes with a general slash-cut tip, but there's a range of other tips available.
            To avoid solder creep, it's essential to have a clean surface/wire, and just dab the joint with just the right amount for just long enough.
            That last part doesn't come in a box. Don't worry, you'll get the hang of it soon enough - it's not rocket surgery.
            A seperate flux can be useful, again easy to garner the experience.
            For practice, I'd recommend rummaging around some old car harnesses and try cleaning and soldering some manky connectors.
            My personal preference is just crimping, no soldering - a proper crimp with the right tool is all you need. However, I'll solder where necessary.
            ---- Dave
            79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
            80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
            79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
            92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

            Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Baatfam View Post

              And yes, 60/40 or 63/37 works. Rosin is OK, but I prefer a good no clean flux for long term use.
              What is "no clean flux?" Are you suggesting that rosin core flux needs to be cleaned off after soldering? I realize that's ideal but is is necessary?
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                What is "no clean flux?" Are you suggesting that rosin core flux needs to be cleaned off after soldering? I realize that's ideal but is is necessary?
                Short answer: It depends.

                For long term reliability of circuit boards, yes. For large, electrical connectors on old motorcycles, probably not. And crimping alone is generally going to be fine.

                When we used rosin core flux, both in wire core, and wave soldering, we cleaned all the assembles in a vapor degreaser, or by hand with alcohol. The rosin remains active, and can cause issues over time, especially on intricate pc boards. "No clean" doesn't do that.

                But....No clean doesn't work near as well on old wires and connectors, unless they are new or really clean. Rosin is much better for that. I use no clean because I am usually using new components.
                Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
                '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

                Comment


                  #9
                  ...if you think you'll use a soldering iron a lot, get spare tips. They wear out..they can be filed once or twice before they do, though.

                  .



                  I also prefer a crimp alone-very few car/bike manufacturers solder anything so I take my cue from them.

                  Grimly's recco per 2 speed irons is a good one (15 and ~35 watt).

                  i use a butane soldering iron occassionally..hard to control heat but in cold weather these can be the thing that works if you can get em lit on a windy day!

                  Look for a longish cord. Perhaps cheapos are worse. Electrical ones are also awkward with their heavy stiff cord.


                  more than you need know but...Possible to MAKE tips too, if you have some copper rod, a file, and a die to thread them(they often unscrew)...sources of round hardened copper rod is hydro wires from pole- scraps from torn down houses, lightning rods, even near the bottom of a pole where they have been repaired or ask the lineman maybe
                  Bronze boat rivets are another possible but -they are bronze- an alloy and I'm not sure about heat transference...should be good enought though.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    My station.....When I was fixing my oven.

                    Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
                    '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I have had the worst luck with soldering irons from big box stores (Weller etc) so I have to agree with Nessism. I have resorted to using a butane torch for joining wires, that works fine but not precise. I use a wet rag as a guard so as not to melt anything nearby, and wrap ends with wet paper towels.
                      Tom

                      '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
                      '79 GS100E
                      Other non Suzuki bikes

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I'll throw in my 1/50th of a dollar and I'm quite sure there are those that won't like it. Put some solder in an alligator clip with the other end of it clipped to the positive terminal of your battery. Clip another one to somewhere down the line in the piece you're trying to solder and clip that one to the negative side of the battery. Use it like an arc welder, touch the solder to what you want joined. It works, been doing it for years.
                        1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
                        1982 GS450txz (former bike)
                        LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

                        These aren't my words, I just arrange them

                        Comment


                          #13
                          LAB3, I applaud your input and ingenuity. That sounds terrifying. Like half MacGuyver/half Red Green. I would definitely hurt myself.
                          Rich
                          1982 GS 750TZ
                          2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                          BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                          Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by LAB3 View Post
                            I'll throw in my 1/50th of a dollar and I'm quite sure there are those that won't like it. Put some solder in an alligator clip with the other end of it clipped to the positive terminal of your battery. Clip another one to somewhere down the line in the piece you're trying to solder and clip that one to the negative side of the battery. Use it like an arc welder, touch the solder to what you want joined. It works, been doing it for years.
                            Interesting idea for a field repair...
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                              Interesting idea for a field repair...
                              Learned that one in electronics tech school in the 70's, our instructor was a young idealistic guy who liked to go out for a smoke and hid in the process of doing so. Like I said, it was the 70's.
                              1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
                              1982 GS450txz (former bike)
                              LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

                              These aren't my words, I just arrange them

                              Comment

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