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    Clutch Adjustment Question

    I was wondering if there is a document out there that explains how to adjust a clutch. I'm not sure sure I have the adjustments on the handle and engine ends of the cable correct. It acts like the clutch won't disengage when fully pulling in on the handle. This started after taking the clutch apart after I thought it had given out. I took the cover off then disassembled it and inspected the clutch plates.

    #2
    Yes there is a manual. Have a look here and go to Page 33 for starters or 3-13 as Ed said. It's 33 on my reader.
    Last edited by Brendan W; 08-19-2020, 06:15 PM.
    97 R1100R
    Previous
    80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

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      #3
      Have you downloaded the factory manual for you bike from Basscliff's website? If not, you might want to and then check page 3-13. It's easier to direct you there for info than describe here because of the photos involved.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #4
        Someone will chime in with a step-by-step shortly, I'm sure. I believe your shop manual, if not your owner's manual, will include this. Some will say to make the rough adjustment down by the clutch first, and to make the final adjustments at the hand lever. I do not believe it makes much difference.

        There should be some free play at the "handle"; it sounds like you may have too much.

        Though I don't think it really matters to the current fix, you should put your year and model in your signature.
        1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

        2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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          #5
          In general, start at the top. Turn the adjuster at the lever IN to give as much slack as possible. Does your bike have the adjuster in the middle of the cable? Some do, some don't, I don't know when they changed. If it does have one, adjust for maximum slack.

          Move to the bottom end of the cable. Is the lever that the cable pulls on roughly perpendicular to the cable pull? If not, make it so. Start adjusting at the bottom end, take up as much slack as you can. If you have a center adjuster, you might run out of threads at the bottom, so leave enough threads engaged there to be safe. Adjust the center adjuster to leave just a little bit of play at the lever. Finally, use the adjuster at the lever to fine-tune the play.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
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          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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            #6
            Clutch cable fix ?

            Originally posted by Houndawg76 View Post
            I was wondering if there is a document out there that explains how to adjust a clutch. I'm not sure sure I have the adjustments on the handle and engine ends of the cable correct. It acts like the clutch won't disengage when fully pulling in on the handle. This started after taking the clutch apart after I thought it had given out. I took the cover off then disassembled it and inspected the clutch plates.
            Hi there, hey did you have any luck with your clutch cable adjustment? Im right where you were.. i took the clutch apart and put new plates in, now its all back together and I can't seem to get the cable dialed in. It just jumps and stalls when i put it into first which tells me the cable must be too tight (?) . if you solved it, let me know please!

            Thanks,
            Patrick
            1982 GS850GL

            Comment


              #7
              If the cable is too tight, the clutch will slip when you put it in gear, not jump and stall.

              Follow the instructions listed above. Some have given you links to the manual, Steve detailed it out.

              Comment


                #8
                When the clutch cover is reinstalled, it's easy to get the little arm the cable connects to out of place. Be sure it's placed on the splines to give maximum movement when clutch lever is pulled in...Just a thought.
                1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  In general, start at the top. Turn the adjuster at the lever IN to give as much slack as possible. Does your bike have the adjuster in the middle of the cable? Some do, some don't, I don't know when they changed. If it does have one, adjust for maximum slack.

                  Move to the bottom end of the cable. Is the lever that the cable pulls on roughly perpendicular to the cable pull? If not, make it so. Start adjusting at the bottom end, take up as much slack as you can. If you have a center adjuster, you might run out of threads at the bottom, so leave enough threads engaged there to be safe. Adjust the center adjuster to leave just a little bit of play at the lever. Finally, use the adjuster at the lever to fine-tune the play.

                  .
                  Very good info...Precise and is the proper way as far as I know..Anything else and it may be a mechanical problem..Cable stretch, Clutch basket with too much thrust clearance..etc..
                  sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by rphillips View Post
                    When the clutch cover is reinstalled, it's easy to get the little arm the cable connects to out of place. Be sure it's placed on the splines to give maximum movement when clutch lever is pulled in...Just a thought.
                    Good advice from Steve, once I feel up to it, Ill try yet again, but feeling deflated. I dont want to have to drain fresh oil just to inspect the plates, but man i thought i had all those parts dialed in. It's gotta be the clutch cable, wish i could find a decent video of someone with a GS doing this

                    Thanks,
                    Patrick
                    1982 GS850GL

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You don't have to drain the oil to inspect the plates. Just leave the bike on the side stand.

                      You WILL need a new gasket, though.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hello gents. So im back inside the clutch because it was still sticking, and stalling on me in first gear (though it shifts like butter through 2 to 5). I left the first metal plate in place bc it was secured with a wire and now i think it was a big mistake, i should have replaced that one too. How do i go about removing it and reinstalling the new one.. Im guessing i need a 32mm socket to remove the basket altogether to accomplish. Attached is a pic or reference to the metal wire. From looking at the pic, does my basket look like its damaged beyond repair?
                        IMG_0407.jpg

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