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    Are EMGO bars any good?

    I am trying to de-L my L a bit and have been searching first for bars. It's hard to find good clean 40 year old chrome, so I am considering buying aftermarket bars. Are EMGO any good? If not, what brands should I be considering?

    While I'm on the subject, should I consider a bar snake when installing aftermarket bars?
    1982 GS1100GL: hand built stainless 4-1 exhaust, pods, jetting.

    #2
    Huh. Never heard of the Bar Snake before. Interesting
    Rich
    1982 GS 750TZ
    2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

    BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
    Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

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      #3
      Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
      Huh. Never heard of the Bar Snake before. Interesting
      Makes sense, though, doesn't it? I have never found factory bars on any bike I have owned to feel buzzy, but I could see how the factory might have spent a few hundred thousand dollars (however many Yen that might be) to eliminate NVH, and installing non-OE bars could undo some of that work.
      1982 GS1100GL: hand built stainless 4-1 exhaust, pods, jetting.

      Comment


        #4
        Seems legit. I'd be curious to read what anyone on the forum has to say about it if they've tried it. Seems like maybe more of a Cruiser/Harley thing, maybe?
        Rich
        1982 GS 750TZ
        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
          Seems legit. I'd be curious to read what anyone on the forum has to say about it if they've tried it. Seems like maybe more of a Cruiser/Harley thing, maybe?
          So you're saying that you think that an odd fire two cylinder radial engine that hasn't changed significantly in 80 years is prone to vibration?
          1982 GS1100GL: hand built stainless 4-1 exhaust, pods, jetting.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Longitudinal View Post
            So you're saying that you think that an odd fire two cylinder radial engine that hasn't changed significantly in 80 years is prone to vibration?
            Yeah, just a tad maybe. haha. No, just have no experience with cruisers, And I've never seen the bar snake mentioned here. That's not to say that my bike couldn't do with a little vibration dampening. But the image in my mirrors is pretty steady, and I don't even have the rubber dampers where the mirror threads into the bracket on the bars.
            Rich
            1982 GS 750TZ
            2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

            BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
            Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

            Comment


              #7
              Aftermarket bars like those Emgo's won't have the holes for the hand control anti rotation tabs, but you can drill some. As far as anti vibration control is concerned, I've seen some OEM bars with metal slugs welded into the ends to add mass and reduce vibration. Not sure about L bars though. Pull a grip and take a look.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                Drilling holes shouldn't be too big a problem. Getting the holes clocked properly would be the trick.
                1982 GS1100GL: hand built stainless 4-1 exhaust, pods, jetting.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I have Emgo superbike bars on my GS750. In the price range at the time, those were the shape/style/position that worked best. They've been fine and I rode across the country twice on them. Recently, I've been wishing I had bars with a slightly higher rise to them that looked more like the stock bars but not quite with as much pull back. Again, haven't been able to find exactly what I wanted so far. I did recently see some aftermarket replacement bars for an XS650 on Z1/Dime City Cycles that I thought looked pretty good...
                  1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
                  1977 GS550
                  1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Longitudinal View Post
                    Makes sense, though, doesn't it? I have never found factory bars on any bike I have owned to feel buzzy, but I could see how the factory might have spent a few hundred thousand dollars (however many Yen that might be) to eliminate NVH, and installing non-OE bars could undo some of that work.
                    The ST1100 bars I mentioned in the other thread had substantial weights in the end straights. Took some shifting, trying to get them out, but I needed to remove them to install my internal bar heaters. I've no doubt the weights worked well as buzz-killers on the ST1100 and I would have liked to have tried them as they were, but needs must.
                    ---- Dave
                    79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                    80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                    79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                    92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The buzz from certain 4 cylinder bikes is in some ways far worse than that from some v-twins.
                      "Thought he, it is a wicked world in all meridians; I'll die a pagan."
                      ~Herman Melville

                      2016 1200 Superlow
                      1982 CB900f

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Longitudinal View Post
                        Drilling holes shouldn't be too big a problem. Getting the holes clocked properly would be the trick.
                        It's not as hard as you might imagine.

                        Assemble the housings lightly on the bar to see the approximate locations. Once you have those, outline the area with some tape, then spray some black paint in the area. When the paint has dried for a bit, put the housings back in place. Move them around to find "THE" position, then rotate them on the bars and then slide them in and out a bit to make cross-hairs on the paint. Drill accordingly.

                        .
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                          #13
                          Or maybe just eliminate the pin on the housing.
                          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                            Or maybe just eliminate the pin on the housing.
                            I did that on one bike and the control rotated at the most inopportune moment. Never again.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Steve View Post
                              It's not as hard as you might imagine.

                              Assemble the housings lightly on the bar to see the approximate locations. Once you have those, outline the area with some tape, then spray some black paint in the area. When the paint has dried for a bit, put the housings back in place. Move them around to find "THE" position, then rotate them on the bars and then slide them in and out a bit to make cross-hairs on the paint. Drill accordingly.

                              .

                              Clever idea. Thanks again.
                              1982 GS1100GL: hand built stainless 4-1 exhaust, pods, jetting.

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