Airbox endcap gaskets questions

[748cc]

So, I thought the gaskets on my airbox's endcaps were worse than they actually are (one tiny tear I tried mending with 2 part epoxy). But what I'm discovering is that they're not identical - you can't swap left with right & vice-versa. Additionally, it seems that the left gasket has about 1" removed from the front & back inner side walls around the airbox filter housing (pic attach is currently failing me). The removed material appears deliborate from the factory, but I need confirmation.

Should the notches be there and if so, why is it removed (ie: what reason would there be to remove it only on the left gasket)? I don't directly see what benefit this has or any obstruction on the airbox that needs 'extra clearence'.

[steve murdoch]

Are you asking about parts #6 and #7 on the schematic?

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3ff80f8700230d8b4df77/air-cleaner

[748cc]

AirboxSideGaskets.jpgWell, the gaskets that fit within parts 6 & 7, yes. Actually they're more like rubber boots.

[748cc]

Just added an image of what I'm referring to...the red circles show where the cut-outs are. Is this normal?

[bwringer]

These gaskets are NLA, and if yours are somehow still in one piece, just toss them into the trash posthaste.

There are assorted successful strategies for sealing your airbox, but most of us use closed-cell self-adhesive weather stripping, Clean well, of course, cut the corners carefully, and you'll get a nice tight seal. And yes, weather stripping holds up just fine and lasts a long time.

Make sure you also deploy the foam so that the air filter element seals to the airbox correctly, too -- many people miss this. Again, clean the metal "cage" carefully, and apply the foam to the top and cut the corners such that there are no gaps. I usually smear on a coat of grease so I can slide the air filter element into place without tearing the foam.