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Barn find 1980 GS450L!

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    #16
    Originally posted by levsmith View Post
    Does this bike have a clutch safety switch?
    Yes, there IS a neutral switch and even if it's in neutral you still need to pull in the clutch lever to get it to spin the starter.
    1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
    1982 GS450txz (former bike)
    LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

    These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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      #17
      Originally posted by LAB3 View Post
      Yes, there IS a neutral switch and even if it's in neutral you still need to pull in the clutch lever to get it to spin the starter.
      yes^^ just bridge those two connectors at the clutch with a piece of wire...OR apply positive electricity to where yellow/green wire is soldered on at solenoid
      Neutral switch and the green dash light is merely an indicator. It does not control actual "starting" Whenever the clutch is pulled, even in gear, you can spin the starter...It's very simple compared to newer bikes..that run an "either-neutral- or- clutch-and- sidestand-up-and-your-nose-is-clean" logic.
      Last edited by Gorminrider; 01-02-2021, 02:34 PM.

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        #18
        Thanks guys! I bridged the clutch switch and still have nothing. I bridged from the positive on the starter relay to the input wire and it cranks. I’m assuming that means it’s either the kill switch, the start switch. Does that sound right?
        Last edited by levsmith; 01-02-2021, 03:00 PM.

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          #19
          Clutch switch, or clutch switch connectors, (for me) are waaay more likely than kill switch or start button. Relatively easy to remove the headlight & plug the 2 clutch switch wires from the wiring harness together, completely eliminating anything to do with clutch switch. Just say'in.
          1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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            #20
            After lots of fiddling, it’s finally cranking! Now just have to get some fuel to it. I poured fuel in and tried cranking quite a bit, but no fire. I guess my next step is starting fluid, I want to hear it at least try to fire before I dig into the carbs

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              #21
              Head'in in the right direction, keep it up.
              1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                #22
                Originally posted by levsmith View Post
                After lots of fiddling, it’s finally cranking! Now just have to get some fuel to it. I poured fuel in and tried cranking quite a bit, but no fire. I guess my next step is starting fluid, I want to hear it at least try to fire before I dig into the carbs
                Would be good to test the plugs for spark while you're at it. It's an easy test and eliminates one possible source of non-starting. Pull the plug, put it back in the cap, hold the threaded part against the engine, fire the starter and look for a spark in the gap area.

                Possible outcomes:
                - If no spark then you might have other electrical issues (coils, wires, pickup sensor, etc.).
                - If you get a spark but it jumps all over the place rather than the gap, you need new plugs.
                - If you get a consistent strong spark in the gap, then move on to fueling issues.
                Current rides: GS650L, GS550T, GL500, GL1100, Bonnie, Triumph Adventurer, Guzzi California

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                  #23
                  Glad your 450 is getting ready to chug. I'm the author of that other post with the formerly fully seized engine. Need any pointers, just ask.

                  Some notes:
                  • The 450 is my first bike, sounds like yours too. Be wary of inheriting bad information from overly-confident crackpots. E.g., a fella at work suggests that spraying crab cleaner directly into the airbox side of the carbs while the engine cranks will "clean your carbs". Absolutely don't, I learned that was *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ advice after buying a new carb off ebay for $60 since it was cheaper than the sum of all the rubber parts that got damaged within.
                  • Even today I am reminded that the factory manual leaves out some important details that the Clymer doesn't, and vice-versa. Spend the time double-checking a procedure between the two.
                  • Just stick with OEM where you can. You can play around with electrical additions if you like (like adding a 12v outlet for your phone charger/heated gloves), but safety or engine critical stuff, stay with OEM. If you need to add new connections, stay away from "quick splices", I lean on marine splice connectors from Horror Freight, they are good quality.
                  • Stripping the oil pan's plug is what later killed my engine, you can preemptively add a helicoil kit (14mmx1.25) so that you're screwing down into steel vs the soft aluminum.


                  Best of luck, it's been a great little machine.
                  1982 GS 450L aka Lil' Red
                  1980 GS 1000G aka Big Red (Resto-mod WIP)

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                    #24
                    Alright guys, update time! I had a little time to tear into it last night. Sprayed some starting fluid in the air box and after a few minutes of feathering the throttle and spraying more fluid, it finally got fuel from the tank and idled very nicely! I found the spot where it’s leaking oil. It’s a little shaft in front of the chain sprocket. I have no clue what the shaft is, but it’s been bent a little bit and I’m assuming that screwed up the seal in the block. Can anyone identify what this little shaft is so I can go about looking up a new part and a seal for it?

                    029CF0B5-CAF2-46A0-8B91-E312CE76478A.jpg

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                      #25
                      I believe that bent rod is your clutch push rod #19 on this fishe. #20 Oil Seal is probably where you're leaking oil. No idea if you can fix this without splitting the cases, but I doubt it.
                      Rich
                      1982 GS 750TZ
                      2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                      BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                      Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

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                        #26
                        Rich, thank you very much! I don't know if I would have figured that out, but it looks like you are correct. I went to the website you linked and it shows the push rod is not available. Everything I can find says it was superseded and is now a 2 piece push rod so that it can be replaced without pulling the entire clutch if it were to get damaged again. I cannot seem to find the new part number though. Anyone have any guesses? Maybe a trip to the dealer is in order...

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                          #27
                          partzilla part no's list other models that part fits.........

                          Buy Suzuki 23100-44101 - ROD, PUSH. This OEM part is guaranteed by Suzuki's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Partzilla.com


                          Ebay have them second hand............caution with ebay is the sellers sell without knowing what they have or state the models they fit without knowing for sure......Just need to do due diligence

                          Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CLUTCH PUSH ROD SUZUKI GS450 82 GS 450 80 81 at the best online prices at eBay!
                          82 GS650E (Canadian), 83 XS650SK (Canadian), Main machines Running
                          Aussie, 74 TX650A, 80 XS650SG, 81XS650SH, 80XS850, in various states of repair/disrepair
                          Introduction and ongoing thread for myGS650Ez
                          Albums

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                            #28
                            Well it looks like the '83 and up had the two piece push rod. I went ahead and ordered the two new pieces, a new seal, the seal holder for this new style and a new crankcase cover gasket since I'll have to remove the clutch. I'm crossing my fingers hoping that it all fits the same. I'll update you all when the parts come in.

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                              #29
                              Mine was leaking from the exact same spot, being an 82 it was one piece, replacing both the shaft and seal took care of it. My question then became, how do it bend in the first place? Never did figure that one out.
                              1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
                              1982 GS450txz (former bike)
                              LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

                              These aren't my words, I just arrange them

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Time for an update. I finally got the parts in and had time to work on it last night. Got the cover pulled off and the old shaft removed. I put the large half of the new 2 piece push rod back in and got the clutch side sealed back up again. I got stuck on getting the old oil seal out on the sprocket side. Hopefully getting a seal pulling tool tonight, I couldn't get it to move using wood screws. But so far it looks like all of the 1983-up parts are going to work on the 80-82. If it does end up working, I'll come back here and put all needed part numbers in so if anyone else has this problem, they know it can be updated to the new style. I'm still scratching my head wondering why Suzuki doesn't show the superseded part numbers.

                                LAB3, I was trying to figure it out too. The only thing I can think of is somehow during riding the chain carried a rock inside that cover. Jamming a rock between the chain and that rod would more than likely bend it.

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