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Thread: Rust Preventer/Inhibitor

  1. #1
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    Default Rust Preventer/Inhibitor

    Hi folks,

    Last year I dismantled a good portion of my bike, cleaned/degreased it, and reinstalled everything, but when I looked a few weeks later was already starting to develop in places. What do you guys use as a rust inhibitor that lasts, doesn't collect road debris (i.e. - isn't goopy like a chain or motor oil), and available?

    A friend of my suggested Nyalic (never heard of it before), and an online source (Bay Area Resortations?) uses Nano Bond Ceramic. Anyone have experience with either of these?

    Cheers
    1982 GS650e - Cafe or Scrambler...that is the question...

  2. #2
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    Last spring when I took my bike down to the frame to paint it, I treated the rusty spots with this.


    Before:


    After:


    I used this on all frame parts, battery box, both stands, swing-arm, torsion bar, and triples; basically, all the black parts.
    Remove all the loose rust, then this stuff goes on like milk, you wait for it to turn purple and re-apply w/in 20 minutes. Turns rust in to a black paint-able surface. Then I primed and painted w/ Rustoleum Primer and topcoat.

    Disclaimer:
    This was my first time I've used anything like this, and the first time I've painted a motorcycle frame. But 10 months later, I haven't seen any rust coming through anywhere. My frame rust was not as bad as some I've seen.
    Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 02-02-2021 at 10:35 PM.

  3. #3
    Nessism's Avatar
    Nessism is offline Forum LongTimer GSResource Superstar
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    Never used that nano stuff but have had greater results with Turtle Wax Hybrid spray. Mist it on then swish it around using a soft bristle paint brush.

  4. #4
    Gorminrider is offline Forum Sage Past Site Supporter
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    I might try that turtlewax stuff.. (sigh).Otherwise,this time of year really brings it up that I'm still looking for something that works on a moving bike in the rain, salt, and what-all..something that will seal a bare metal spot that I can't even see until it gets bad enough that rust-converter and paint is the only answer...Everything except good paint gets beaten off even under the seat somehow...I suppose moist air will lift any oil-based product. And I don't even ride all that much this time of year (2x a week )

    one thing that DOESN'T work is "Fluid Film", IMO, but it's probably ok on a non-moving bike outdoors for a little while....and it's ok to enamel over and I have a can to use up but it's a fail...axle grease works better.

  5. #5
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    If you just want a protectant to help prevent rust during the winter months you could try this WD40 product.
    I wouldn't spray it on brake pads or tires but i know of a well known collector that swears by this stuff.
    https://www.wd40.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/
    2@ \'78 GS1000

  6. #6
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    Paint?, LOL. There is a little known method used for long term storage of crankshafts it is essentially hard tar like they patch asphalt streets and commercial roofs with. You take a small piece of hard tar and dissolve it in a solvent, gasoline/lacquer thinner works fine. You apply it and when the solvent evaporates the residue is dry to the touch, and only has a slight color. It stays on for a long time. There is also a product that you can spray on called LPS3 I have used it a lot in the past, you can store bare metal outdoors for years without corrosion if you use this stuff. It is safe for rubber & paint too.
    1981 GS1100E
    1982 GS1100E



    "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle


  7. #7
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    Start a business selling rust and everything you own will miraculously stop corroding in a heartbeat...
    80 GS850GT
    79 Z400B

  8. #8
    Gorminrider is offline Forum Sage Past Site Supporter
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    Tar! what an intriguing idea...it'd certainly stick... I've got a can of roofpatch too, and solvents...will try this! Might be the best up forward where hwy speeds really attack front surfaces ..crappy chrome mirrors, forks and in around the headset etc but other good ideas and reminders to try..rust converter will dry even now so under the seat -todays job...thanks. It drives me nuts as the original paint starts coming off at weld joins etc when I havent a warm enough space to touch it up with paint.
    Last edited by Gorminrider; 02-03-2021 at 01:23 PM.

  9. #9
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    The rust neutralizer does have a useable temperature range on the label. Believe it’s 50-90F. Read the label to be sure.

  10. #10
    Gorminrider is offline Forum Sage Past Site Supporter
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    No worries! I've used it before under a different label...and we are warm this winter...It can dry from engine heat or I'll give it a headstart with the ol' heat gun. (I totally forgot to try it as an interim til you mentioned it! )

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