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Thread: Rust Preventer/Inhibitor

  1. #11
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    Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

    For reference, I degreased my parts as well as I could, then soaked them in Evaporust (which is a rust convertor), then painted them. On some of the parts I found I had best results with removing them from the Evapoorust, rise/dry, and putting them back in the solution for another swim. This seemed to occur with the most heavily gunkified of the parts. Also, after the parts were removed from the Evaporust I didn't coat them with anything right away, which was probably a mistake. I'm doing some engine parts right now that I'll spray down with wd40 or white lithium grease at least while they wait for paint etc.
    1982 GS650e - Cafe or Scrambler...that is the question...

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorminrider View Post
    Tar! what an intriguing idea...it'd certainly stick... I've got a can of roofpatch too, and solvents...will try this! Might be the best up forward where hwy speeds really attack front surfaces ..crappy chrome mirrors, forks and in around the headset etc but other good ideas and reminders to try..rust converter will dry even now so under the seat -todays job...thanks. It drives me nuts as the original paint starts coming off at weld joins etc when I havent a warm enough space to touch it up with paint.
    Be sure it is a hard tar, or it will be sticky when it is dry. It is used a lot in the engine rebuilders industry on reground automotive crankshafts while they are being stored.
    1981 GS1100E
    1982 GS1100E



    "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle


  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by KillerGriller View Post
    Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

    For reference, I degreased my parts as well as I could, then soaked them in Evaporust (which is a rust convertor), then painted them. On some of the parts I found I had best results with removing them from the Evapoorust, rise/dry, and putting them back in the solution for another swim. This seemed to occur with the most heavily gunkified of the parts. Also, after the parts were removed from the Evaporust I didn't coat them with anything right away, which was probably a mistake. I'm doing some engine parts right now that I'll spray down with wd40 or white lithium grease at least while they wait for paint etc.

    If you use WD40 or grease that sets you up for possible paint adhesion problems later. If you want to prevent rust while waiting to paint, look for some lacquer based primer sealer and spray it on.
    1981 GS1100E
    1982 GS1100E



    "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle


  4. #14
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    ACF 50 developed for use on aircraft.
    1980 GS1000E

  5. #15
    Gorminrider is offline Forum Sage Past Site Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalfab View Post
    Be sure it is a hard tar, or it will be sticky when it is dry. It is used a lot in the engine rebuilders industry on reground automotive crankshafts while they are being stored.
    Haven't got that yet but I'm running a test on some roof patch+paint thinner (acetone tried won't mix easily) ..a thin brown wash..Encouraging so far and dried in short order with a heat gun..but tests are ongoing perresistance, easy removal to overpaint... I'm looking for a 10 minute "suppression" until the day when paint will be an option. This "wash" might combine well with rust converter.

    And I have so many tools I could use this on! It's awful to see what's happened to some of my edge tools- even packed in grease! An ideal dip...
    Last edited by Gorminrider; 02-05-2021 at 12:52 PM.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorminrider View Post
    Haven't got that yet but I'm running a test on some roof patch+paint thinner (acetone tried won't mix easily) ..a thin brown wash..Encouraging so far and dried in short order with a heat gun..but tests are ongoing perresistance, easy removal to overpaint... I'm looking for a 10 minute "suppression" until the day when paint will be an option. This "wash" might combine well with rust converter.

    And I have so many tools I could use this on! It's awful to see what's happened to some of my edge tools- even packed in grease! An ideal dip...

    In the past I used gasoline as a solvent, it is cheap and evaporates fast. I haven't used any gasoline with alcohol in it yet.
    1981 GS1100E
    1982 GS1100E



    "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle


  7. #17
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    I forgot to mention, tar can be resistant to dissolving. Let it soak in solvent a few days and it cooperates a little better
    1981 GS1100E
    1982 GS1100E



    "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle


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