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Thread: Clutch basket welding - 1980 GS550E

  1. #1
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    Default Clutch basket welding - 1980 GS550E

    Hey folks, I've just pulled the clutch basket apart to fit washers to the rattling springs. When welding the old rivets to the retaining plate, does the rubber ring on the inside always melt? Or have I taken too long with the welder? It's come away slightly where the heat was.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chancho196 View Post
    Hey folks, I've just pulled the clutch basket apart to fit washers to the rattling springs. When welding the old rivets to the retaining plate, does the rubber ring on the inside always melt? Or have I taken too long with the welder? It's come away slightly where the heat was.
    yes you are right that insided rubber ring is melted during welding, welder have to use technique to prevent rubber
    Last edited by realrogerryan@gmail.com; 04-25-2021 at 05:46 PM.

  3. #3
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    I always wondered if one of those angled tabs on the area the spring fits into could just be bent up, insert washer, and bend the tab back down.
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck hahn View Post
    I always wondered if one of those angled tabs on the area the spring fits into could just be bent up, insert washer, and bend the tab back down.
    Not really enough to get hold of - and the backplate appears to be high tensile steel sheet.
    What i've done a couple of times on road motors is insert a 2mm steel shim against the spring end - and TIG it to the backplate.
    Do all the springs like this and it's good to go for some years.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregT View Post
    and TIG it to the backplate.
    Stick welding should also work

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustybronco View Post
    Stick welding should also work
    I've done it with the backplate and springs still in place. Stick, you'd risk welding the spring end in as well.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregT View Post
    Stick, you'd risk welding the spring end in as well.
    Eh.... make the spacer a little proud and you shouldn't hit the spring.

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    Sit it in a pan of water with as little as you dare sticking out. The water really sucks the heat out fast. You need to pour on the heat and get off of it fast when you weld. Don't get crazy with the water, the top needs to be dry. Make sure the area around the rivet and the rivet is clean, it will weld faster & better.

    I've done the washer on the spring mod, it can work for a while. You need a lot of control when welding it, I would highly recommend a TIG for that, but any welder can do it. If it is toast I saw one on Ebay yesterday for $29 free shipping, "make offer". It stuck in my mind because it was cheap and looked good.
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