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new head gasket on GS550 results in oil dripping from front 10mm screw

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    new head gasket on GS550 results in oil dripping from front 10mm screw

    Well, after all that work it really is a disappointment to find it dripping from the front there.

    I used an OEM head gasket and a new square o-ring around the timing chain well. I didn't apply sealant to the head gasket (never had to in the past).

    I got it up to temp and will re-torque but it probably won't make a difference.

    It only drips about once every 5 minutes and then only when its running. But can't have that as it will make a mess.

    Darn thing runs beautiful but for that.

    Any advice?

    #2
    That’s a drag......did you by chance check the head for flatness ?
    and what year 550?
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
      That’s a drag......did you by chance check the head for flatness ?
      and what year 550?
      Nope. The same head and block were fine (no leaks) before I stripped it down.

      I stripped it to replace the cylinder sleeves due to low compression. Now the compression is very good but I have the leak.

      It's a 1982.

      In the past I would apply some sealer around the rectangular o-ring and let it cure before dropping the head onto it. I think the problem is that this o-ring will squeeze out of place when compressed unless it has some sealer to hold it in place.

      This time I only used sealer in a couple of spots. I was in a hurry.

      Comment


        #4
        Have a go at retorque. I got more than half a turn on mine after 500 miles.
        That 10mm screw? Is it doing anything?
        The threads on mine were effectively stripped and there is a longer screw in there now with a nut on.
        97 R1100R
        Previous
        80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

        Comment


          #5
          You changed the sleeves ??. If you mean the cylinder liners, are the replacements flush and all flat on the gasket face.
          My bikes 79 GS1000 1085 checked and approved by stator the GSR mascot and 77 GS750 with 850 top end, GS850g, and my eldest sons 78 GS550, youngest sons GS125. Project bike 79 GS1000N

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by DimitriT View Post
            Well, after all that work it really is a disappointment to find it dripping from the front there.

            I used an OEM head gasket and a new square o-ring around the timing chain well. I didn't apply sealant to the head gasket (never had to in the past)....
            Sorry to read about this - a real frustration after all your hard work.

            Two things come to mind here - did you use the latest version OEM multi-layer steel head gasket, or an earlier original version? I have not experienced it myself, but have seen on here that with the latest multi-layer steel head gaskets, that square O-ring around the timing chain tunnel is not required.

            Secondly, what I have experienced is that an oil leak at the top rear of the valve cover gasket will cause oil to run down and into the open passages in the head, coming out at the front of the head above the area of that 10 mm bolt. So check if you can pinpoint the exact source of the leak - clean all the oil off, and spray with foot powder or similar, then start the engine and observe where the powder gets wet first.

            Good luck!
            1981 GS850G "Blue Magic" (Bike Of The Month April 2009)

            1981 GS1000G "Leo" (Bike Of The Month August 2023)

            Comment


              #7
              It may well have been an older type:



              I have a newer style head gasket from a kit. It's one of those with a composite core sandwiched between steel. Do you know if those are any good?

              I will check the valve cover.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by uk gs nut View Post
                You changed the sleeves ??. If you mean the cylinder liners, are the replacements flush and all flat on the gasket face.
                And again - you changed the sleeves ?

                If this has been done it's imperative to have the top surface of the block skimmed flat.
                Even if you think it is already flat.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by uk gs nut View Post
                  You changed the sleeves ??. If you mean the cylinder liners, are the replacements flush and all flat on the gasket face.
                  Yes they appeared flush.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by GregT View Post
                    And again - you changed the sleeves ?

                    If this has been done it's imperative to have the top surface of the block skimmed flat.
                    Even if you think it is already flat.
                    Hmmm.. When the top surface is machined, do they do that with the liners in the block? I guess they must otherwise the liners would sit proud of the surface.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by DimitriT View Post
                      Hmmm.. When the top surface is machined, do they do that with the liners in the block? I guess they must otherwise the liners would sit proud of the surface.
                      Correct. It's the only way of ensuring everything is level.
                      Take it to a machine shop and ask for a very light levelling cut on the top surface. They'll probably only take about .005in off which won't change cam timing enough to bother with.
                      I'd pick that at least one of the inner cylinder liners is standing slghtly proud of the gasket surface.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You need to make sure the head and cylinder mating surfaces are flat more so if you use the multisteel head gasket if so the cam chain oring/gasket is not required
                        The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
                        1981 gs850gx

                        1999 RF900
                        past bikes. RF900
                        TL1000s
                        Hayabusa
                        gsx 750f x2
                        197cc Francis Barnett
                        various British nails

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Those MLS gaskets require a very clean and flat sealing surface in order to seal. As mentioned, I don't think the square O-ring should be used with the MLS gasket.
                          Changing the liners requires the surface to be decked afterwards. I'm not sure what the deal is but the liners/cylinder have different colored dots on the bottom so I think they are a graded fit of some sort.
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So do I need to have both the block and the head surfaces skimmed? Or is it enough to just do the block since I replaced the cylinder sleeves.

                            I re-torqued after running up to temp a few times and got 3/8 of a turn on a few studs. It actually fixed the leak at that front 10mm bolt but now I noticed another major leak between #1 and #2. So I will take it apart again and do it right this time.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Just the block should suffice.But if you've used an MLS head gasket, I wouldn't re-use it as you will almost certainly have stretched/indented areas of it already - and it may not seal again.

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