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New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

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    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    Not sure what it'd be called, but I installed new coilpacks, and a new ignition replacement, correctly ofcourse, and I went to do the timing and I ran into an issue. Anytime I get the testlight to go off, i get a spark at where the coilpack mounts, it's only on one coil, and the coil does touch the mount but there is rubber stopping it from getting any sort of connection to electricity, also when I get the test light to go off, my lights get brighter.

    Took a video, you cant see the spark anymore because I fixed a spot that the rubber tore, but you still do hear the spark, and also the lights getting brighter.

    Ian

    1982 GS650GLZ
    1982 XS650

    #2
    Are both coils connected to properly installed spark plugs? That could be a reason for sparks in unexpected places.

    The fluctuations in your lights is expected. When the coil is charging it's drawing power from the battery which pulls voltage down. When it stops and a spark occurs (the coil discharges) it's not drawing power so your lights get brighter. Similarly, you'll find your tail lights get brighter when you disconnect your headlight.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Killer2600 View Post
      Are both coils connected to properly installed spark plugs? That could be a reason for sparks in unexpected places.

      The fluctuations in your lights is expected. When the coil is charging it's drawing power from the battery which pulls voltage down. When it stops and a spark occurs (the coil discharges) it's not drawing power so your lights get brighter. Similarly, you'll find your tail lights get brighter when you disconnect your headlight.
      Not connected to plugs just sitting freely right now, gonna swap wires ane see if it's a coil or not
      Ian

      1982 GS650GLZ
      1982 XS650

      Comment


        #4
        Okay so with plugs connected the spark does go to the plug now, still cant get the test light to go off for 2 and 3 (right side coil) and with spark plugs in that coil I cant get a spark to go off with just using the advance but if I press my starter they will spark
        Last edited by timebombprod; 04-24-2021, 01:50 PM.
        Ian

        1982 GS650GLZ
        1982 XS650

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by timebombprod View Post
          still cant get the test light to go off for 2 and 3 (right side coil) and with spark plugs in that coil I cant get a spark to go off with just using the advance but if I press my starter they will spark
          That's normal and expected, the coils fire 180° apart. If the spark is strong, sounds like you have a working system.

          Comment


            #6
            Should coilpacks get warm while just having bike in the on position and killswitch on but not running? Never noticed so never asked.

            I do have spark when I plug them in but when plugged out it does run off somewhere on the coilpack mount just never had seen that.
            Ian

            1982 GS650GLZ
            1982 XS650

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Killer2600 View Post
              That's normal and expected, the coils fire 180° apart. If the spark is strong, sounds like you have a working system.
              Yes just needs timing, and the carbs back on. Gave them to a ship for fuel level adjustment after the rebuild (didnt number floats) and it's been a whopping 5 days for an hour of work lol. If I knew that, I would've brought them to the guy thatd do it for half as much and the same amount of waiting time.
              Ian

              1982 GS650GLZ
              1982 XS650

              Comment


                #8
                Uodate,Update, hot not warm, still can touch.

                Right side coil is hotter than left side I noticed
                Last edited by timebombprod; 04-24-2021, 10:23 PM.
                Ian

                1982 GS650GLZ
                1982 XS650

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by timebombprod View Post
                  Uodate,Update, hot not warm, still can touch.

                  Right side coil is hotter than left side I noticed
                  For this reason, you don't want to leave the ignition ON when the bike isn't running. Power is continuously flowing while the coil is charging, the only time power isn't flowing is when the ignition/ignitor/points breaks the ground side in order to spark/discharge the coil.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Killer2600 View Post
                    For this reason, you don't want to leave the ignition ON when the bike isn't running. Power is continuously flowing while the coil is charging, the only time power isn't flowing is when the ignition/ignitor/points breaks the ground side in order to spark/discharge the coil.
                    Okay, well that's good it's not a actual problem, been trying to set timing so I have to do that. Having a bit of issue getting timing set but it should be figured out.


                    Light stays on a good bit after passing the T mark, but is fine before F mark.
                    Ian

                    1982 GS650GLZ
                    1982 XS650

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by timebombprod View Post
                      Light stays on a good bit after passing the T mark, but is fine before F mark.
                      How long your test light stays on is irrelevant. What you are trying to accomplish is having the light come on at the exact moment the timing mark lines up when rotating the engine in it's normal direction of rotation (clockwise). The light shouldn't come on any earlier (before the mark) or delay coming on (come on after the mark is passed). The better way to do this is with a timing light, but these days that's not a common tool in peoples arsenal and if you take your time to get the test light method as spot on as you can then you're usually going to be close enough without having to obtain a tool to verify dynamic (running engine) timing.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Made a video of what's going on, cant get the light to turn off nomatter what o adjust, seeing if theres a quick solution to this as in somebodies dealt with it before and knows what to move where

                        Ian

                        1982 GS650GLZ
                        1982 XS650

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Using video to reassure it's fine what it's doing killer
                          Ian

                          1982 GS650GLZ
                          1982 XS650

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by timebombprod View Post
                            Made a video of what's going on, cant get the light to turn off nomatter what o adjust, seeing if theres a quick solution to this as in somebodies dealt with it before and knows what to move where

                            https://youtu.be/M8ye06WDbDk
                            Don't worry about when the test light turns back off. That's determined by the design of the dyna S pickup and for all intents and purposes not a concern of the installer. As for the "full" mark, it's actually the "fire" mark which is when the spark plug will fire when there is no advance. T is top dead center. When following the installation instructions for the dyna s and setting timing using the full advance mark you must be sure to hold the rotor in the full advanced position (fully rotated against the advance spring). If you don't do this your timing will be off.

                            Again just go by the installation directions of the dyna and adjust it so that your test light comes on right as the crank hits the full advance timing mark (with the rotor held in the full advance position). Don't worry about when the light goes back off after initially coming on. To clarify the dyna s instructions if you adjust the timing right your test light should go on or off as you rotate the crank clockwise and counter-clockwise AT the timing mark. Clockwise it should go from off to on as you hit the timing mark and if you go back the other way it should turn back off as you hit the timing mark.

                            Hope this helps.

                            PS: I want to add, your youtube video looks like it's right. The only more verification you could do is instead of just rotating the rotor between full advance and something less than full advance is to hold the rotor in the full advance and move the crank back and forth around the full advance timing mark as detailed in the above paragraph. But as is I'd say you have it spot on or close enough for anything that's not going to space.
                            Last edited by Killer2600; 04-25-2021, 05:29 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Killer2600 View Post
                              Don't worry about when the test light turns back off. That's determined by the design of the dyna S pickup and for all intents and purposes not a concern of the installer. As for the "full" mark, it's actually the "fire" mark which is when the spark plug will fire when there is no advance. T is top dead center. When following the installation instructions for the dyna s and setting timing using the full advance mark you must be sure to hold the rotor in the full advanced position (fully rotated against the advance spring). If you don't do this your timing will be off.

                              Again just go by the installation directions of the dyna and adjust it so that your test light comes on right as the crank hits the full advance timing mark (with the rotor held in the full advance position). Don't worry about when the light goes back off after initially coming on. To clarify the dyna s instructions if you adjust the timing right your test light should go on or off as you rotate the crank clockwise and counter-clockwise AT the timing mark. Clockwise it should go from off to on as you hit the timing mark and if you go back the other way it should turn back off as you hit the timing mark.

                              Hope this helps.

                              PS: I want to add, your youtube video looks like it's right. The only more verification you could do is instead of just rotating the rotor between full advance and something less than full advance is to hold the rotor in the full advance and move the crank back and forth around the full advance timing mark as detailed in the above paragraph. But as is I'd say you have it spot on or close enough for anything that's not going to space.


                              Awesome, sounds pretty promising from what you could tell and I will be checking if the light goes off if moved in a different spot, and also spinning it the opposite way. Hopefully all is well and I can be back on by this week, thanks for the help!
                              Ian

                              1982 GS650GLZ
                              1982 XS650

                              Comment

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