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Thread: Fuse blew twice, half my bulbs went out, voltage seems to high

  1. #1
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    Default Fuse blew twice, half my bulbs went out, voltage seems to high

    The fourth fuse from the bottom. Rear lamp, headlamp (low, high and park), indicators bulbs, fifth gear bulb, neutral bulb died. Not at the same time.

    It runs a little rough. Lose power when I accelerate. Does not like full throttle, when I let off the throttle it returns to normal.

    The remaining gear bulbs are too bright, I can see white light. It goes to normal bright when I let off the throttle and it starts slowing down.

    I ran it a little with 15a fuse for the fourth and fifth fuse. Had to get my grandfather to donate some correct ones.

    Battery has some issue, it had 12.14 volts after charging all night, charger wont charge it more but says its not full.

    Fuse box seems to have fresh corrosion, it has been stored inside a cold garage for 6 to 8 months. I have added about 12 litres of fresh fuel.

    Any other ideas than scrape the fuse connectors and buy a new battery?
    GS1000G 1981

  2. #2
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    How's the stator in that bike?
    "Thought he, it is a wicked world in all meridians; I'll die a pagan."
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    2016 1200 Superlow
    1982 CB900f

  3. #3
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    “Battery has some issue, it had 12.14 volts after charging all night, charger wont charge it more but says its not full. “

    An overcharging r/r will smoke lightbulbs and eventually the battery....get a decent r/r ,new battery,and test afterwards.....no more than 14.5 volts .
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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    Quote Originally Posted by GS1150Pilot View Post
    How's the stator in that bike?
    Not sure how I would check. Visual inspection?

    Quote Originally Posted by tom203 View Post
    “Battery has some issue, it had 12.14 volts after charging all night, charger wont charge it more but says its not full. “

    An overcharging r/r will smoke lightbulbs and eventually the battery....get a decent r/r ,new battery,and test afterwards.....no more than 14.5 volts .

    I took out the indicator bulbs on one side and replaced them, to rule out any wiring error making them not work. After replacing bulbs the indicators again works.

    I guess Ill have to find the parts numbers for that R/R and the triumph harness thing.

    Edit:
    The R/R is SH775 and the triumph thing is T2500676, in case anyone after me needs them to solve the same issue. I will ask the local tractor store if they can source these two.
    Last edited by Noreg; 04-25-2021 at 11:10 AM.
    GS1000G 1981

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noreg View Post
    The R/R is SH775 and the triumph thing is T2500676, in case anyone after me needs them to solve the same issue. I will ask the local tractor store if they can source these two.
    If getting them locally as new items, the Triumph lead might not be too expensive (normally around €15 from a Triumph dealer), but the SH775 is now obsolete as new stock and either the used market from ebay US or new from ebay US is the only real practical source now, but avoiding the fakes. The updated replacement is the SH-748, but it's larger and might be an impossibly tight fit.
    ---- Dave
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  6. #6
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    So I checked the battery voltage, it was at a nice 13 volts when I came out after it sitting all night. I then started the bike and it gradually climbs to something like 15 volt. At 5000 RPM I saw 18 volt before I decided to shut it down...

    It seems to struggle a bit to start (water in fuel probably), but ran fine with the choke on after a few tries. A bit hard to tell because the bike doesn't like it around freezing.

    Is there any way to reduce this voltage temporarily so I can still use the bike?

    Quote Originally Posted by Grimly View Post
    If getting them locally as new items, the Triumph lead might not be too expensive (normally around €15 from a Triumph dealer), but the SH775 is now obsolete as new stock and either the used market from ebay US or new from ebay US is the only real practical source now, but avoiding the fakes. The updated replacement is the SH-748, but it's larger and might be an impossibly tight fit.
    I decided to ebay it after reading this. But that will take some time, so then the question is how to temporarily make it run properly. 18 volts is probably enough to fry the battery and the bulbs. And it seems the voltage increases the longer it stays at a certain rpm. Electricity confuses me so I don't really understand the processes.

    Why does my fuse keep blowing though?
    GS1000G 1981

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    Quote Originally Posted by Noreg View Post
    (....)I then started the bike and it gradually climbs to something like 15 volt. At 5000 RPM I saw 18 volt before I decided to shut it down...

    (...)
    Is there any way to reduce this voltage temporarily so I can still use the bike?

    (...)

    I decided to ebay it after reading this. But that will take some time, so then the question is how to temporarily make it run properly. 18 volts is probably enough to fry the battery and the bulbs. And it seems the voltage increases the longer it stays at a certain rpm. Electricity confuses me so I don't really understand the processes.

    Why does my fuse keep blowing though?
    Your regulator is fried; and you absolutely cannot run the bike without one; you're compounding the damage!

    Fuses blow to _protect_ the rest of the system; this can be caused by either voltage or current climbing too high.

    Sorry, but until you replace the R/R, your bike is grounded. If you really want to ride until your SH775 arrives; you can install almost any other known-good R/R (for example an used one from some other bike). You have to make sure to get a what's commonly referred to as a "5 wire / three phase AC" R/R. As for the rated power, I believe 30A should be sufficient. I recommend checking back with the forum when you get your hands on one.
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    Quote Originally Posted by roeme View Post
    Your regulator is fried; and you absolutely cannot run the bike without one; you're compounding the damage!

    Fuses blow to _protect_ the rest of the system; this can be caused by either voltage or current climbing too high.

    Sorry, but until you replace the R/R, your bike is grounded. If you really want to ride until your SH775 arrives; you can install almost any other known-good R/R (for example an used one from some other bike). You have to make sure to get a what's commonly referred to as a "5 wire / three phase AC" R/R. As for the rated power, I believe 30A should be sufficient. I recommend checking back with the forum when you get your hands on one.
    Good that we have a definite diagnosis! Could I run it without the stator connected? I guess I can trailer it back to the garage.

    Estimated delivery May 13, 2021 - Jun 06, 2021 <- Quite a big range of expected delivery for the SH775, the triumph harness should be here well before that.

    I struggle finding a R/R with the right amount of wires, and it seems somewhat hard to source.
    GS1000G 1981

  9. #9
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    Here’s a typical 1980’s r/r used on millions of bikes.....shindengen sh-232
    see if can locally source one...it’s a decent shunt style

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB400....m46890.l49286
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

  10. #10
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    cowboyup3371 is offline Forum LongTimer Past Site Supporter
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    Yes you could run it without the Stator connected but then how far are you comfortable riding it before you call for a tow truck to come pick you up? The stator’s primary mission is to keep that battery charged (think alternator in a car; similar concept)

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