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Thread: right turn sig circuit overloads only when moving

  1. #1
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    Default right turn sig circuit overloads only when moving

    Just wondering if anyone's had a similar experience as the details have left me without an explanation. This could be a problem on any bike really.

    When parked and the key on; the right turn signal works flawlessly. However, if you are moving down the road pushing the button to right will sometimes (not always) blow the fuse. It alway makes things on the same circuit flinch or dim, like parking lights, tach needle drops momentarily. I do not believe the signal flashes. The indicator doesn't light.

    I suspected a problem in the switch itself as checking the wiring to the right signals showed no problems. Last night I disassembled the control and completely cleaned and re-lubed it all. I rubbed contacts clean and shiny. Again today no right signal, just an apparent drain when I push the switch.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
    1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
    We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

  2. #2
    Redman's Avatar
    Redman is offline Forum LongTimer Past Site Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by EDGECRUSHER View Post
    .
    ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . However, if you are moving down the road pushing the button to right will sometimes (not always) blow the fuse. It alway makes things on the same circuit flinch or dim, like parking lights, tach needle drops momentarily. I do not believe the signal flashes. The indicator doesn't light.. .
    ..


    Lets see, what is different with bike sitting not running and bike running sown the road...:
    -Charging system running so higher voltage. Hum... Try it with bike parked, but running at low rpm... and try it at mid rpm.

    -Vibration from bumps. Hum.... try it with bike parked, engine not running, key on, but wiggle around different wiring harness. Maybe somewhere in the right t/signal circuit have some harness/wire worn thru the insulation and have some bare copper exposed.

    THe above is thinking about something that is shorting to ground and blowing the fuse.

    Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
    GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.



  3. #3
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    Update:
    upon closer inspection, the fork bolts were making contact with a part of the harness and rubbed through two wires, one being a signal wire. So it wasn’t the fact that the bike was running or moving but rather I had the steering straight where the fork clamp bolt could make contact with the wires and then I hit the button energizing it and creating a short. The fact it was just glancing contact Is probably why it didn’t always blow the fuse.

    simple after you find it. I love troubleshooting electrical. Now engine problems that’s different
    1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
    We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

  4. #4
    Redman's Avatar
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    Thanks for update, and the conclusion.

    not often that can sucsefully troubleshoot an electrical problem with your eyes. Especially an intermittent problem.

    hey.... I see you list Muskegon as location.
    (I am about 20 miles south)

    Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
    GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.



  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redman View Post
    Thanks for update, and the conclusion.

    not often that can sucsefully troubleshoot an electrical problem with your eyes. Especially an intermittent problem.

    hey.... I see you list Muskegon as location.
    (I am about 20 miles south)
    Yes. I was in Holland for many years. Now Iím in Fruitport but close to Norton Shores. I still get down to Holland once in awhile.
    1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
    We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

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