Well...

[pdqford]

I dont know if it's meant to be one horn but I have two.

That’s why you have a wiring diagram.
It will answer that question.

[pdqford]

When i checked the fuel gauge wires KOEO I checked both, one just showed the battery voltage so it was the negative, and the other showed a whopping 7 volts. Now I'm not missing 7 volts from my coils but I'm sure it is taking a good bit of voltage.

What to do?

I’m gonna ignore that issue because it is not part of the coil circuit.
I’m old enough that I can only work on one issue at a time.��

[timebombprod]

Well darn, looking at diagram the only things the coilpacks are hooked up to is the ignitor which has been deleted, so now its signal genrator to the coilpacks, and also the engine killswitch.

The signal genrator is new and it gets its 12dcv off the engine killswitch, so I'm not sure where to go at with this being that they've been cleaned.

I do know I'm losing a volt at the killswitch and i will check the wire connection i recently cleaned that's between the fusebox and that, but that's all i really can check.

Another thing i will do is press the starter button and have the motor spin and check the coilpack voltage at that point.

[timebombprod]

My.bad was looking for voltage loss didnt realise it's only towards certain parts and not a whole.circuit going through the bike

[timebombprod]

Well, pressing the starter and checking the voltage while motor was spinning showed 8v for a second, but never went back up to that after. Big oof.

[timebombprod]

Snapchat-79918918.jpg


Heres what I noticed, losing 3.12v at the ignition connection from the signal generator to the connection that goes to the coils.

[pdqford]

Well darn, looking at diagram the only things the coilpacks are hooked up to is the ignitor which has been deleted, so now its signal genrator to the coilpacks, and also the engine killswitch.

Typically one wire splits into three wires and those three wires feed power to the ignition, the left coil, and right coil. So those three items are “in parallel”.

The igniter is connected to one coil via a white wire and to the other coil via a black wire. The ignition does not provide power TO the coil, it provides a ground to the coil when it wants the coil to get charged up, (Which let’s current flow through the coil), and it takes away the ground when it wants the coil to generate the spark.

But since you have deleted the ignitor and hooked the coils to the signal generator, I have no wiring diagram or experience with your modification. What provides the igniters function of turning the coils on and off at the correct time in your set up?

[timebombprod]

Typically one wire splits into three wires and those three wires feed power to the ignition, the left coil, and right coil. So those three items are “in parallel”.

The igniter is connected to one coil via a white wire and to the other coil via a black wire. The ignition does not provide power TO the coil, it provides a ground to the coil when it wants the coil to get charged up, (Which let’s current flow through the coil), and it takes away the ground when it wants the coil to generate the spark.

But since you have deleted the ignitor and hooked the coils to the signal generator, I have no wiring diagram or experience with your modification. What provides the igniters function of turning the coils on and off at the correct time in your set up?

The dyna S signal genrator has ignition points you have to time for the correct sparking pattern, I've got that figured out. It hooks up to the same wires the ignitor hooked up to but skips that whole section.

[pdqford]

The dyna S signal genrator has ignition points you have to time for the correct sparking pattern, I've got that figured out. It hooks up to the same wires the ignitor hooked up to but skips that whole section.

Oh, okay. So the points in the Dyna S must make and break the ground side of the coil circuit to turn the coils on and off.
If you are getting a significant voltage drop on the coil ground side circuit, maybe the points are dirty creating resistance, or maybe the points and/or signal generator don’t have a good ground.

[timebombprod]

Oh, okay. So the points in the Dyna S must make and break the ground side of the coil circuit to turn the coils on and off.
If you are getting a significant voltage drop on the coil ground side circuit, maybe the points are dirty creating resistance, or maybe the points and/or signal generator don’t have a good ground.

I'll take a look at them and clean anything off that i can

[timebombprod]

Okay so checked the ignition switch wires, right at where it plugs, I'm losing .6v at the red wire which leads to the fuse and also my R/R. And losing about 1.8v on my brown wire which leads to tail/brake light. Losing .7v from orange wire which goes to fusebox. And losing 1.6v from white wire which goes to my speedo and fuel gauge light. What's weird is my green wire isnt green but white, this ignition switch is from suzuki.

What to do? Connections at plug for ignition are clean, and most of these wires go to lights.


Cleaned the brown wire connection that's under the seat, and cleaned rear light contacts, now its 1.7v.

I was looking at the black and white wire that is also attached to brake light and holy crap it must go everywhere

[timebombprod]

I just realised my wiring diagram doesnt have any red and orange wires in the colour key, I'm gonna look at another diagram. This is the one in the clymers manual for a 82glz

[timebombprod]

Just checked the splice where killswitch and coils meet, and it's basically the same voltage loss I'm having at the coilpacks, 3.3v. Checked before and after the splice and it's the same, so it must be before the splice, gonna have to follow the wire to where it goes.

[pdqford]

My spell check thing keeps changing some of my typing!
Maybe your Does also.

Just for my clarification, are you cleaning the outside of the wires and switches, or have you actually disassembled the ignition switch and kill switch to clean any corrosion off their contacts?

[timebombprod]

My spell check thing keeps changing some of my typing!
Maybe your Does also.

Just for my clarification, are you cleaning the outside of the wires and switches, or have you actually disassembled the ignition switch and kill switch to clean any corrosion off their contacts?

I have been opening them as much as I can and cleaning them, cleaned every piece of metal there is. Can assure I've been doing it properly without having to redo any wires or solders