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Thread: 83 GS1100E RH crankshaft oil seal replacement?

  1. #11
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    I slip a seal like that over a shaft using a piece of polythene, which I then withdraw.
    Mr D. Urex has the instructions.
    ---- Dave
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldGSfan View Post
    Rapid Ray says...
    I consider him the final word on these bikes.

    Got my gauge cluster from him. Was just thinking how it's very cool that quite a few parts of my Suzi came from quite a few members here. Thanks, guys.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
    Yeah, those grainy darksome photos in the manuals just cheese me right off. Especially when they're showing you something ridiculously obvious like that locating pin in your example, and they have a true talent for skipping actual crucial information.

    Nothing at all in the manual mentions you have to install the seal "backwards". AAAARRRGGGGHHH!

    In the modern era, Youtube mechanics have a similar genius for omitting that one desperately needed crucial detail. I need to see exactly how that clip is aligned, and how to release it... aaaaaand in the two seconds it's in view, he turns the camera around so all I get is a blurry shot of beard and boogers, coupled with the obligatory wheezing.
    Or the, "we already removed this section" when that removal is the critical reason behind wanting to watch the video

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  4. #14
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    I tried to endure a Harley guy removing his same Mikuni HSR42 I have to see how the air cleaner attached. He had no impact driver or brain, so he spent 10 minutes on 3 screws cursing, shredding Philips heads, and making lame-ass jokes with his partner until he got it off, then quickly skipped showing the next part. Thank god for FFWD but sheesh.
    Tom

  5. #15
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    Oh by the way I got a 2" PVC straight joint that is just right on the outer rim of the seal. I will cut to the right height and sand it nice and level, then fasten a wood plate on and drill hole in the middle to allow me to use the center ignition fastener threads as the anchor to squeeze it in. I don't see why a 3 point contraption is needed with the 8mm's but should find out soon.
    Tom

  6. #16
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    Nothing stopping you from grinding a small lead-in taper on the rubber edge of the seal. I've used a bench grinder for this previously, a sanding/linishing belt would do it too. Only a small taper on the leading edge is needed.
    Grimly's method of protecting the inner lips is a good one too.

  7. #17
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    Yeah that seems necessary, I could see just with pushing it in to test fit by hand that it was peeling back the outer shiny layer so I started to do that just a little, but stopped as I wasn't real comfy with it.

    Sorry to bogart your thread Ron but good info here for all doing this job. Love that signature

    Quote Originally Posted by GregT View Post
    Nothing stopping you from grinding a small lead-in taper on the rubber edge of the seal. I've used a bench grinder for this previously, a sanding/linishing belt would do it too. Only a small taper on the leading edge is needed.
    Grimly's method of protecting the inner lips is a good one too.
    Tom

  8. #18
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    Good info popping up here! I still haven't attempted replacing mine yet. Been working on getting other bikes running, and it only leaks when I ride it! LOL
    Ron
    When I die, just cremate me and put me in my GS tank. That way I can go through these carbs, one more time!


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    1983 GS1100E - aka: the ratbike
    1981 GS1100E - very slow work in progress!
    1985 GS550E - might never get to it!

  9. #19
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    If a person were to install this seal without splitting the cases, I would recommend filing or sanding a small chamfer on the leading edge of the seal bore. It will install easier and may not cut or scrape the seal. Dar

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeamDar View Post
    If a person were to install this seal without splitting the cases, I would recommend filing or sanding a small chamfer on the leading edge of the seal bore. It will install easier and may not cut or scrape the seal. Dar
    Agree. There was a thread here recently where a member was scheming on replacing a countershaft seal on his Triumph and putting a chamfer on the case was part of the process.

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