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83 1100E oil 0/W 50W synthetic

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    83 1100E oil 0/W 50W synthetic

    I have a gallon of this and am wondering if anyone has used this weight in a GS. Pros and cons?

    #2
    Probably more important than the viscosity would be whether the words "Energy Conserving" or something similar appear in the API donut on the rear label. You don't want to see them, they are bad for the clutch.

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      #3
      Pretty sure an oil like that wouldn't fall into the EC spectrum. That said, some people get paranoid with using any oils that is not approved for use in a wet clutch.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

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        #4
        Sez SP and I was looking at the wrong gallon in my cabinet, it's 5W 30 full synthetic Valvoline and it does say resource conserving. I could use it in my riding lawnmower instead.

        Comment


          #5
          As a general rule the 'energy conserving' oils will be either 20 or 30 weight on the high end of the multigrade rating (eg - 5W20, 5W30, etc.). So anything that is a __W40 or __W50 will not be energy conserving. Also, the diesel oils never seem to be rated as energy conserving and have always worked well for me in motorcycles with wet clutches. My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.


          Mark
          1982 GS1100E
          1998 ZX-6R
          2005 KTM 450EXC

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mmattockx View Post
            My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.
            That is mine, as well, but I have noticed lately that there is also a 15w40 T6 full synthetic sitting right next to it. Same blue jug, so you have to be careful which one you grab. I'm sure the 15w would work, especially in the warmer climates, but I prefer the 5w.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by mmattockx View Post
              As a general rule the 'energy conserving' oils will be either 20 or 30 weight on the high end of the multigrade rating (eg - 5W20, 5W30, etc.). So anything that is a __W40 or __W50 will not be energy conserving. Also, the diesel oils never seem to be rated as energy conserving and have always worked well for me in motorcycles with wet clutches. My go to oil for my street bikes is Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic.

              Mark
              Mark,I had tried some other brand synthetic(Castrol Actevo) 10/40 in my bike and it caused a few leaks around gaskets and seals.Have you ever experienced any leaks using the Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic ? I normally run Rotella T4 15/40 non-synthetic and have gone back to it after the way the synthetic oil leaked.
              Last edited by grcamna2; 07-20-2021, 07:47 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by grcamna2 View Post
                Mark,I had tried some other brand synthetic 10/40 in my bike and it caused a few leaks around gaskets and seals.Have you ever experienced any leaks using the Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic ? I normally run Rotella T4 15/40 non-synthetic and have gone back to it after the way the synthetic oil leaked.
                I have not had an issue with leaks but that is a known side effect of some synthetics as they have better detergent properties than conventional oils and can scrub away the accumulated gunk that is keeping old seals from leaking. I don't have an answer for that aside from switching back to a conventional oil as you have done. There are some guys here that have delved way deeper into the nuances of synthetic oils (they aren't all the same by any means) and may have some better suggestions for dealing with leaks.


                Mark
                1982 GS1100E
                1998 ZX-6R
                2005 KTM 450EXC

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by mmattockx View Post
                  I have not had an issue with leaks but that is a known side effect of some synthetics as they have better detergent properties than conventional oils and can scrub away the accumulated gunk that is keeping old seals from leaking. I don't have an answer for that aside from switching back to a conventional oil as you have done. There are some guys here that have delved way deeper into the nuances of synthetic oils (they aren't all the same by any means) and may have some better suggestions for dealing with leaks.


                  Mark
                  Mark,I'm glad you're able to run Rotella T6 full synthetic in your 1100E without it sprouting leaks;I may try switching to it to see if I have the same results.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. It may scrub away the crud that is plugging an existing leak, making you think it causes a leak. It will be up to you whether you repair the cause of the leak or go back to an oil that will plug the leak.

                    Synthetic oil is not "slipperier" than 'conventional' oil. It will not make your clutch slip. For the most part, oil is oil. Just choose the correct viscosity.

                    There are some properties of synthetic where it tolerates heat better or will resist wear due to shear or other stuff, and can usually last a bit longer between changes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by phydeauxmutt View Post
                      Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. It may scrub away the crud that is plugging an existing leak, making you think it causes a leak. It will be up to you whether you repair the cause of the leak or go back to an oil that will plug the leak.

                      Synthetic oil is not "slipperier" than 'conventional' oil. It will not make your clutch slip. For the most part, oil is oil. Just choose the correct viscosity.

                      There are some properties of synthetic where it tolerates heat better or will resist wear due to shear or other stuff, and can usually last a bit longer between changes.
                      Agree. Main attribute with synthetic oil is that it breaks down slower thus you can use it longer. Because it lasts longer the oil makers put more detergent and acid buffers in it. Pretty much every new turbo auto engine being built these days is using synthetic oil and they don't leak.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        Pretty much every new turbo auto engine being built these days is using synthetic oil and they don't leak.
                        Not only that, but they put the synthetic oil in at the factory, further dispelling the myth that you need to use 'regular' oil to break it in, then you can switch to synthetic.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by phydeauxmutt View Post
                          Synthetic oil does not cause leaks.
                          Agreed. I recall being told that it 'found' leaks. From day one with my Suzi (2013), it has been 'money is no object' when it comes to her care. Much like tubes vs. tubeless, I shied away from synthetic because it can be argued that she was not designed for synth.

                          But the bottom line is she already 'sweats horsepower' a wee bit (occasional drop on the floor), so I never fed her synth. But my 2016 Sportster never got anything but full synth.

                          A few years back, I was talking cars with a real old timer. When I asked him what was the main improvement from the olden days, he said it was the quality of the oil, particularly it's longevity.

                          Back in the '70's and '80's, ('71 CB350 & '73 Z1), I pretty much stuck to Castrol GTX 20w-50.
                          1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                          2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.
                            Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
                            Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
                            Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by limeex2 View Post
                              I believe I read or was told manufacturer's can run tighter tolerances with synthetics due to synthetic oil molecules being all the same "size" as compared to conventional oils which are of many different sizes.

                              That's a good point,thanks.

                              Comment

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