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    high heat black

    Does anyone know of a very high temp gloss black not flat available for header paint?

    #2
    Thats engine paint, I'm looking for 2000 degree header paint. I really don't know what temp the head pipes run at but I figured the higher the paint temp the better.Since our stock exhaust is double walled maybe the outer pipe will run cooler.
    Last edited by red1100; 07-19-2021, 02:17 PM.

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      #3
      VHT makes a very high heat black header paint,although flat black.
      Last edited by grcamna2; 07-19-2021, 08:44 PM.

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        #4
        I'm unaware of any high gloss black header paint. I think there is a reason for that...
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

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          #5
          I've tried various high-heat flat black exhaust paints and they don't last.
          However, I've not tried high-heat ceramic coatings - maybe they do last.
          I eventually gave up on that and bought another set of downpipes.
          ---- Dave
          79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
          80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
          79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
          92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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            #6
            Originally posted by Grimly View Post
            I've tried various high-heat flat black exhaust paints and they don't last.
            However, I've not tried high-heat ceramic coatings - maybe they do last.
            I eventually gave up on that and bought another set of downpipes.
            Ditto on that. I got very nice results with VHT's gloss black on my clutch cover. For the head pipes, I've used "Helix" VHT flat black "silica - ceramic 1300 - 2000 degree" exhaust paint.

            Never seen gloss paint for the headers.
            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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              #7
              The reason I want gloss is because I'm putting my stock exhaust back on. They have sat in storage for decades and have gotten a little surface rust. I'm thinking that because of dual wall head pipes the outer pipe would be cool enough for a good high temp paint. Anyone ever heat gun a set just to see?

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                #8
                When doing something like this would you sand and spray?
                Ian

                1982 GS650GLZ
                1982 XS650

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                  #9
                  First I use rust mort to neutralize the surface rust then pressure wash then alcohol wipe down then paint.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by red1100 View Post
                    Does anyone know of a very high temp gloss black not flat available for header paint?
                    I used flame proof vht paint on my RF900 headers I say header as the first 4" from the cylinder head are stainless steel so I did not paint those from stainless it's mild steel until it exits from under the bike its then stainless. so all the mild steel was painted. The stuff I used in the link below says it has silicone and ceramic you do need to use the primer then the finish coat following the instruction carefully, preparation is key. I have been very happy with the results. I did ask the supplier about the curing process the reply was you can prime let compleatly dry then finish coat again compleatly dry then do the curing as both primer and finish cure at the same rate. The link is to a supplier in the uk but if I remember correctly the product is made in the USA.
                    oh yeh there is no black gloss.
                    i cannot stress enough that the paint must be completely dry between coats and again before curing or it will bubble

                    VHT Flat Black Flame Proof Very High Temperature Paint (312g) from Frost.co.uk - The Specialist of High Quality Tools & Equipment for the Classic Vehicle Restorer
                    Last edited by fastbysuzuki; 07-20-2021, 04:14 PM.
                    The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
                    1981 gs850gx

                    1999 RF900
                    past bikes. RF900
                    TL1000s
                    Hayabusa
                    gsx 750f x2
                    197cc Francis Barnett
                    various British nails

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                      #11
                      I think the only way you are going to get glossy pipes is to have them ceramic coated.
                      That involves blasting the existing finish, then re-coating.
                      If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by fastbysuzuki View Post
                        I used flame proof vht paint on my RF900 headers I say header as the first 4" from the cylinder head are stainless steel so I did not paint those from stainless it's mild steel until it exits from under the bike its then stainless. so all the mild steel was painted. The stuff I used in the link below says it has silicone and ceramic you do need to use the primer then the finish coat following the instruction carefully, preparation is key. I have been very happy with the results. I did ask the supplier about the curing process the reply was you can prime let compleatly dry then finish coat again compleatly dry then do the curing as both primer and finish cure at the same rate. The link is to a supplier in the uk but if I remember correctly the product is made in the USA.
                        oh yeh there is no black gloss.
                        i cannot stress enough that the paint must be completely dry between coats and again before curing or it will bubble

                        https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-very-hig...-312g-aerosol/

                        When you say "the paint must be completely dry between coats" Would you want to allow each coat to cure 7 days ?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by grcamna2 View Post
                          When you say "the paint must be completely dry between coats" Would you want to allow each coat to cure 7 days ?
                          Can only say what I did, it was winter and the bike was not being used so yes I left it two weeks in between coats and likely 4 weeks after finish coat before being cured on the bike. I found it's better to use a medium grade emery cloth to roughen the surface as the final step then a really good degrease before painting
                          The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
                          1981 gs850gx

                          1999 RF900
                          past bikes. RF900
                          TL1000s
                          Hayabusa
                          gsx 750f x2
                          197cc Francis Barnett
                          various British nails

                          Comment


                            #14
                            IMG_20210722_073226.jpgI used Duplicolor caliper enamel paint with ceramic in gloss black at Autozone. Good for 500 degrees F. They sat in the sun and baked for about 6 hours.

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                              #15
                              VHT"Flameproof" series has a "Clear" (and FYI, a primer...).that goes on top of the primer-> flat black*... but it's semi-gloss, really ...

                              So, the process is primer,flat,clear as per the microscopic font given as instructions on the can.

                              Be very very careful trying to follow instructions. If you get stuck between coats,(I ran out of black so be sure to get two cans where going over chrome+primer) it's a very good idea to LEAVE IT at least a week before continuing coats...as the instructions say.

                              Sometimes I succeed, sometimes not-I've developed several superstitions...LEAVING IT ALONE beyond a week in warm weather also helps to cure it but do many short startups too, to cure. Ideally, stop the engine BEFORE it smokes and at the first whiff of hot paint. An IR thermometer may help, but not necessary. Maybe its real use is as something to keep your attention on the criticality of the process...

                              The most vulnerable to "curing failure" is the closest to engine and around the bend...

                              *There's also an "aluminum" silver and a bronzy-looking "steel" colour.
                              Last edited by Gorminrider; 07-25-2021, 11:47 AM.

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