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Recommended black spray paint for chassis/brackets etc? Correct finish? Durable?

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    Recommended black spray paint for chassis/brackets etc? Correct finish? Durable?

    What is everyone "go-to" spray paint for repainting brackets and touching up frame paint? Looking to get a decent approximation of the factory OE finish so re-painted parts don't stand out too much (for example, using a super high-gloss piano black would stick out like a sore thumb, ditto a completely flat soft matte black). I know there can be a huge range of black paint finishes, and getting a mis-match can look really obvious. Not doing a concours level restoration so doesn't need to be perfect, just don't want it to look *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ty. Bonus points if the paint is durable, even more if cheap/easily available (though I dont mind spending a bit for a good product). Recommendations for a good primer to use with it also appreciated.

    Just to be clear, I'm not looking to paint/coat the whole frame during a restoration (so options like powder coating, epoxy dipping etc are not on the table). Mainly looking for something to refresh brackets and parts that get pulled off during normal maintenance, and maybe paint a few portions of the frame that need touch-up (e.g. the tube running behind the rear brake reservoir which was paint peeling from fluid exposure).

    #2







    VHT Gloss Black Epoxy Paint 11oz

    I have used this paint on a few motorcycle frames, used it to re paint carburetors on my 83 1100E after factory paint stripped away in prep for dipping etc. Paint is durable. Average price here at a couple of auto parts stores less than $9.00

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      #3
      I switched over to Rustoleum appliance black and it goes on well, is a good price and is tough. It needs a full 24H or more to cure. I use VHT brake and caliper satin black and bake them. The finish is very much like stock for things like headlight buckets.
      Tom

      '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
      '79 GS100E
      Other non Suzuki bikes

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        #4
        Originally posted by oldGSfan View Post
        I switched over to Rustoleum appliance black and it goes on well, is a good price and is tough. It needs a full 24H or more to cure. I use VHT brake and caliper satin black and bake them. The finish is very much like stock for things like headlight buckets.

        I have also used the Rustoleum Appliance black paint(satin/semigloss)on a frame with good results;the can said "not for outdoor use" but it hasn't been a problem.

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          #5
          I use a pot of Lidl gate paint.
          Works for me.
          ---- Dave
          79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
          80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
          79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
          92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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            #6
            Yes, glossy rust paints with a brush and appliance paints seem ok but do let them get hard...the stuff in a can is not really hard even when it is dry...

            If the gloss is too muchwait awhile and you can hit it gently by finger with a (Simoniz brown stuff red plastic tub) "medium buffing compound which dulls it, then hit it with (Simoniz white stuff green tub) finer compund which brings it back to a very similar look as the original...or, mix in a little "satin" with the gloss.
            Last edited by Gorminrider; 08-05-2021, 12:07 PM.

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              #7
              Originally posted by oldGSfan View Post
              I switched over to Rustoleum appliance black and it goes on well, is a good price and is tough. It needs a full 24H or more to cure. I use VHT brake and caliper satin black and bake them. The finish is very much like stock for things like headlight buckets.
              Agreed, I love the stuff.
              1981 GS1100E
              1982 GS1100E



              "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle

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                #8
                Norrell’s moly-resin is super resistant to chemicals and can applied to different sheens if you want to climb the learning curve with it. Takes a few applications to get it just right, it goes on with an airbrush then bakes at 300 for an hour. It’s more work than spray bombing but looks real nice. I did all my brake parts and most other small parts with it during my build.
                1978 GS750E (barn find and current project)
                1997 Electra Glide
                1983 Goldwing

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
                  Yes, glossy rust paints with a brush and appliance paints seem ok but do let them get hard...the stuff in a can is not really hard even when it is dry...
                  In 2016 I was painting Suzi's clutch cover with "VHT High Temperature Engine Enamel Drive Train Paint Chemical Resistant Coating up to 550 F (288 C) Gloss Black" spray. (Say that 3 times fast.) But I can't keep my hands to myself. So after a few hours it looked great, but I just had to touch it. 'Dry,' but you know. So I had start all over again.

                  After 12 hours...start again.

                  After 24 hours...why can't I control my hands? Fortunately, I was going away for two weeks, so I was able to control myself for a few hours before I got on the plane, and when I got back...finally! Now I can caress her shiny goodness all I want without leaving a mark.

                  On my previous set of headers, I used to spray a puddle of Helix flat black exhaust paint on a piece of cardboard and touch them up with a brush, mostly high up just out of the engine.
                  Last edited by Rob S.; 08-10-2021, 05:06 PM.
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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