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Thread: GSX1150 Rebuild

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    64

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    So now I needed to get the engine back in the frame so i could see if it would run. In previous restorations i have used the 'Tip the engine over and lower the frame over it" approach. Easy enough when he frame is bare but this was still fully assembled and i really couldn't be bothered dismantling it so an alternate approach was required.
    This required a garden pergola, blocks of wood, paving tiles and some tie down straps.
    Step 1: Get the bike and engine in position adjacent to each other
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Step 2: lift the engine up by tilting it back and forth and inserting wood/tiles under it. Use the straps to stop it tipping over.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Once at the right height put some timber across frame to drag the engine over

    [IMG][/IMG]


    Almost there

    [IMG][/IMG]


    And done

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Now to get the Cylinder Head back on.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    80 GSX1100 ET
    82 GSX750 EZ
    84 GSX1150 ES
    86 GSX750 ES
    10 GSXR1000

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    calgary canada
    Posts
    1,238

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    Quote Originally Posted by ensure View Post
    So now I needed to get the engine back in the frame so i could see if it would run. In previous restorations i have used the 'Tip the engine over and lower the frame over it" approach. Easy enough when he frame is bare but this was still fully assembled and i really couldn't be bothered dismantling it so an alternate approach was required.
    Installing an engine on your own is a challenge, it's good to see another method of installation.

    I'll be doing the same in a couple of months but as mine will be complete tear down to paint the frame, So I get to lay the engine on it's side and drop the frame on it which I've never tried before.
    1979 CBX, AW440 Maico, GS1150EF

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    New York City
    Posts
    8,045

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    Real go it aloners. Reminds me of me in college, changing engines on a VW bug and my '68 Camaro virtually single-handed. 20-year-olds have a lot of energy.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Mission Viejo, CA
    Posts
    743

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    Good work. You can do it with a hoist on it side without removing too much stuff but I know that tail section can be a pain. Harbor Freight furniture dolly underneath, chain hoist also from HF so the investment was about $60. I use it all the time as I don't trust those lifts that are only under the frame. For chain, fork, tire work etc. I put the loop under the seat through the frame rails. On the front, through the neck if the tank's still on.

    Rob - I once put a 1600 dual port upright in a VW bus and no problem all by myself until putting the bolts in from behind the shroud. Arms just wouldn't fit, required shorter arms and smaller fingers I guess. Asked my wife for help, and she popped them in faster that I could believe.

    Tom

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    New York City
    Posts
    8,045

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldGSfan View Post
    Rob - I once put a 1600 dual port upright in a VW bus and no problem all by myself until putting the bolts in from behind the shroud. Arms just wouldn't fit, required shorter arms and smaller fingers I guess. Asked my wife for help, and she popped them in faster that I could believe.
    I was fixing the VW Bug for a girl I was infatuated with. While I was sweating under her car, she was driving my Camaro and sleeping with my best friend. So, sort of the same thing.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    64

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    Having got the engine back in the frame and everything connected I thought I would do a leakdown test and compression test as a last check before firing it up.
    Uh-Ooh
    Readings are 50 50 67 60.
    Something is not right so it I need to pull the head off and check the valves. Should probably have done it earlier but you live in hope.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    How are these for nasty. Its no wonder I wasn't getting much compression

    [IMG][/IMG]


    Exhaust Valves are terrible

    [IMG][/IMG]


    Now this is a job that I can use my handheld drill for. Valve Luffing
    A bit of rubber fuel line inside the large diameter fuel line grips the valve stem quite nicely.
    Turn the drill on and push and pull with a bit of valve grinding paste and a bit of pressure on the valve (my thumb) and it gives a nice light grind.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Hopefully this will improve the situation.
    80 GSX1100 ET
    82 GSX750 EZ
    84 GSX1150 ES
    86 GSX750 ES
    10 GSXR1000

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    4,521

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    I just assumed, that since you'd sent the head off for machining, that you'd stripped it.
    At the very least, you can't expect ancient valve stem seals to still be good.
    ---- Dave
    79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
    80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
    79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
    92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    West Slope, OR
    Posts
    11,984

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    Did you check the valve guide clearances?

    Don't overdo the valve grinding, contact area should only be be a few mm wide
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    64

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    First one done. What a difference
    From this
    [IMG][/IMG]

    To this in first pass.

    [IMG][/IMG]


    To this. Gave the cylinder head a bit of clean as well.

    [IMG][/IMG]


    Should be able to get a few more PSI compression now.
    80 GSX1100 ET
    82 GSX750 EZ
    84 GSX1150 ES
    86 GSX750 ES
    10 GSXR1000

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    64

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    Finished the remaining Valve Seats
    [IMG][/IMG]

    And re-instated the Valves

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Along with some new Valve stem oil seals (actually ones off my spare engine )

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Now that the engine is back together we will see if it will fire up

    [IMG][/IMG]

    I also made an interesting discovery in the Spares box - 1 set of RS36 Carbs - T36 D3E (from 1987 as the previous owner has engraved his initials and date on the underside of covers)

    [IMG][/IMG]

    I will stick with the standard Carbs for initial testing this weekend
    80 GSX1100 ET
    82 GSX750 EZ
    84 GSX1150 ES
    86 GSX750 ES
    10 GSXR1000

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