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1980 GS550 Rebuild

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    1980 GS550 Rebuild

    Hey everybody!
    I recently acquired a lovely pair of 80/81 GS550's.

    IMG_4750.jpg

    My plan is to get the black beauty on the left up and running, potentially going the cafe route in the long run. Only because the red bike has much more rust and miles, whereas the black already runs and has had the carbs cleaned (prior to my purchasing).

    Currently, it smokes more than a chimney in a Massachusetts winter. So obviously I'm getting that addressed before doing any other work on the bike.
    I checked valve clearances and there is none. However I cannot get the spacers out (even using the ProMotion 08-0017 tool). How can I get the spacers out without the tool? I'm wary of using a screwdriver for fear of scratching everything to hell.

    #2
    Is your tappet depressor tool located correctly? It's easy to position it incorrectly. In use, you should be able to see the tappet pressed down slightly. Suzuki made a special spacer removal tool, which is simply a large pair of tweezers that allow you to grab the edge and pull it out. There are good photos in the Suzuki service manual. Do you have one?
    sigpic
    '77 GS550B
    '78 GS550C

    Comment


      #3
      Look for the slot in the tappet and turn that so you can access it with the tappet depressed.
      Use tweezers, or a magnet to remove the shim
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

      Comment


        #4
        Use the zip-tie method (google this site for it)
        ---- Dave
        79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
        80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
        79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
        92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

        Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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          #5
          Thanks for the suggestions! I will try again when I get home to use the tappet depressor tool, I couldn't get it to fit on the inside edge of the valve and kept slipping off the outside edge. Once I get it depressed I don't think I'll have too much trouble actually getting the spacer out (small flathead + pliers should do the trick). I just haven't actually been able to depress the valves.

          Another question, will I need to re-do my valve clearances if I end up taking the cylinders off to replace piston rings?

          Comment


            #6
            The valves open as the cam lobe is down. Find the Zip Tie Supplement on BikeCliffs website, left margin. Link in my signature for BikeCliffs. Or this one will get you right to the document. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...ol_zip_tie.pdf
            Rich
            1982 GS 750TZ
            2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

            BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
            Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Big T View Post
              Look for the slot in the tappet and turn that so you can access it with the tappet depressed.
              Use tweezers, or a magnet to remove the shim
              Never use a magnet or a magnetized tool (many screwdriver heads are magnetized, for example). This can magnetize the shim which can cause all sorts of nasty problems.

              tappet.jpg
              Last edited by xkaes; 09-14-2021, 10:00 AM.
              sigpic
              '77 GS550B
              '78 GS550C

              Comment


                #8
                Update and questions
                Did valve clearances (much better, none out of spec low, couple high) with no big impact on compression (105, 112, 100, 90 psi). Did the 'wet test' and saw huge compression increases across the board (175, 135, 135, 125 psi).
                My gut tells me it's gotta be rings at this point, so I pulled the carbs and engine off (needs a good cleaning and I want to paint it anyway).
                I've read that sometimes compression issues could be related to timing, but the '80 L has electronic ignition... so not an issue?
                Just looking for someone to tell me if I'm going in the right direction or not (before taking the top end apart).

                Last edited by Aerospaceman; 10-28-2021, 03:53 PM.

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