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    Brake fluid not coming out

    I’m trying to get all the brake fluid out of the bike (there’s brown fluid in the rear m/c). Followed the steps that I would do on any other bike (hose on bleeder valve, connected to trash receptacle. Pump the brake, crack the bleeder value, close bleeder value, release brake).

    No fluid is coming out of the bleeder value at all. Since the entire brake system needs to be redone, im
    only concerned about getting the fluid out, rather than worrying about air getting in.

    any suggestions on how to proceed?

    1982 GS650 G
    Main lady- 2009 Nightster 1200
    Project Lady- 1982 GS650 G

    #2
    The front brake master cylinder or the rear master cyl:which one is not pumping-out the fluid ?
    Do you have any close-up pics of the master cylinders ?

    Comment


      #3
      Well technically fluid hasn’t come out of either MC when I tried to bleed the brakes, but the front MC resevior is empty, so I just assumed that there was no brake fluid in there (probably a naive assumption). There was no pressure in the system in the front (no resistance when I pulled the brake lever in),

      The issue is with the rear MC

      Main lady- 2009 Nightster 1200
      Project Lady- 1982 GS650 G

      Comment


        #4
        Why not take the brakes off as is, and just take them apart ?
        Rijk

        Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

        CV Carb rebuild tutorial
        VM Carb rebuild tutorial
        Bikecliff's website
        The Stator Papers

        "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

        Comment


          #5
          Agreed. Time to disassemble and clean/rebuild calipers and MCs, install new SS brake lines.
          Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 09-19-2021, 05:03 PM.
          Rich
          1982 GS 750TZ
          2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

          BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
          Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Rijko View Post
            Why not take the brakes off as is, and just take them apart ?
            Because we’re trying to establish a baseline, see if there was pressure on the line, parts moving in the caliper etc, before jumping to the most expensive solution.

            Regardless, shouldn’t the fluid be removed before disassembling everything?
            Main lady- 2009 Nightster 1200
            Project Lady- 1982 GS650 G

            Comment


              #7
              If there's resistance (pressure) on the pedal, there's pressure somewhere. Start farthest away & work backwards. First open the bleeder, if nothing then loosen the banjo bolt on caliper, if nothing there loosen banjo on MC...Just say'in, you are keeping pressure on pedal while opening bleeder ain't you??
              1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Sarcvicious View Post
                I’m trying to get all the brake fluid out of the bike (there’s brown fluid in the rear m/c). Followed the steps that I would do on any other bike (hose on bleeder valve, connected to trash receptacle. Pump the brake, crack the bleeder value, close bleeder value, release brake).

                No fluid is coming out of the bleeder value at all. Since the entire brake system needs to be redone, im
                only concerned about getting the fluid out, rather than worrying about air getting in.

                any suggestions on how to proceed?

                1982 GS650 G
                Originally posted by Sarcvicious View Post
                Because we’re trying to establish a baseline, see if there was pressure on the line, parts moving in the caliper etc, before jumping to the most expensive solution.

                Regardless, shouldn’t the fluid be removed before disassembling everything?
                Establishing a baseline is not what you asked.
                And I think your original goal makes sense.
                Redo the system.
                You already have baseline :
                an old non-functional system that needs complete overhaul.

                And no, you cannot bleed the system completely by pumping the MC.
                Take off the brake system as a whole : unscrew all components and let the brake fluid coming out bleed off in some container.
                Now you are ready for that full redo you had planned.
                Last edited by Rijko; 09-19-2021, 06:32 PM.
                Rijk

                Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread

                CV Carb rebuild tutorial
                VM Carb rebuild tutorial
                Bikecliff's website
                The Stator Papers

                "The thing about freedom - it's never free"

                Comment


                  #9
                  There is no baseline when the brake system is full of sludge.

                  As Rich stated: remove calipers, pop out the pistons, pull plunger out of mater cylinder, clean everything out and consider replacing seals (and the pistons and master if the bore is corroded,) and replace brake lines which are also full of sludge which can't be cleaned.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thank y’all for the help!

                    Next question- I already sourced a front MC on eBay that was “pulled off a functional gs650”. Is my best bet to do the same thing for the rear mc? I know I need to replace all the brake lines & inspect the calipers, but do I need to replacing the master cylinders as well? If the OEMs are better than aftermarket, what do I need to ask the seller to make sure I’m getting an mc that’s in ok shape?
                    Main lady- 2009 Nightster 1200
                    Project Lady- 1982 GS650 G

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The problem with used 40 year old master cylinders is there is often corrosion inside which causes pitting in the body rendering the master useless and not suitable for rebuilding.

                      For a 650 you need a master with a 5/8" or 16mm bore. You can find tons of options on ebay. A late model Kawasaki EX650 master is a good target, the version with a mirror threaded lug, because they are relatively new and not subject to as much corrosion. Or, get a generic master. The cheap chinese masters are okay since a master cylinder is a simple device. Needless to say you should inspect the bore of your existing master before assuming it's bad. Same thing for the calipers; you need to remove the pistons and look for pitting and corrosion. If you have damage and want to replace the seals get OEM Suzuki parts, not crappy aftermarket parts like K&L which basically suck. It pays to stay close to home when it comes to brake system parts. For brake lines, check out the Earls line thread here on this forum. Making your own lines is cheaper than most prebuilts and the parts are made in USA and high quality.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by rphillips View Post
                        If there's resistance (pressure) on the pedal, there's pressure somewhere. Start farthest away & work backwards. First open the bleeder, if nothing then loosen the banjo bolt on caliper, if nothing there loosen banjo on MC...Just say'in, you are keeping pressure on pedal while opening bleeder ain't you??
                        Have you tried this yet ?
                        This is a good way to trace the problem.The master cylinder itself may not be pumping but that will be determined(at the end)by this procedure.
                        Last edited by grcamna2; 09-20-2021, 01:06 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just completely remove the bleed screw and see if it or the caliper are plugged. Often the bleeder screw itself is plugged.
                          Simple stuff first.

                          Mad
                          83 GS750E
                          2006 ZX14
                          2004 KTM 450 EXC
                          2001 Yamaha Big Bear

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Edited to change question-

                            so when do I know when a caliper is reslly
                            beyond repair. This entire thing is gummed up. I can’t get the piston out and accidentally tore the dust cap. The braking system is in conplete disrepair ��

                            edit 2- got the piston out w the compressed air trick. But I’m still not sure how to tell if a good cleaning is all the caliper needs or whether I need a need a new one.

                            is changing the seals/gaskets enough?
                            Last edited by Sarcvicious; 09-20-2021, 07:31 PM. Reason: Changing question
                            Main lady- 2009 Nightster 1200
                            Project Lady- 1982 GS650 G

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Inspect the piston for pitting in the chrome. If pitted, replace it. During reassembly replace the dust boot and caliper seals. Use OEM Suzuki parts, NOT K&L unless you absolutely have to.

                              Ed

                              To measure is to know.

                              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                              Comment

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