Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

question about forks

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    question about forks

    just a quick question, when finishing up the fork rebuild does the top tubes in the forks sit pushed in or pulled out as far as they go? the bolt that goes to the very bottom of the forks that uses a 6mm allen key has to thread up to a certain bit to lock the forks in place and i could only seem to get the bolt threaded with the fork tubes sitting all the way in the bottom tubes, they are able to be pulled out about 5 inches maybe but i wasnt able to get the bolt threaded that way, they seem to act correctly and look about the right height, but then again im still not sure. hoping somebody here knows!
    Ian

    1982 GS650GLZ
    1982 XS650

    #2
    Sorry, I just wrote a response then deleted it. I’ll have to check my notes.
    Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 10-06-2021, 08:33 PM.
    Rich
    1982 GS 750TZ
    2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

    BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
    Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

    Comment


      #3
      darn lol hopefully it is
      Ian

      1982 GS650GLZ
      1982 XS650

      Comment


        #4
        Sorry I never got back to you yesterday. From memory, I think the chrome upper tube with the damper rod/oil lock piece inside of it would have to be all the way to the bottom of the lower tube. But your forks are a bit different than mine. Basically, the exact opposite of how you must have disassembled it. What guide/manual/diagrams are you using for reference?
        Rich
        1982 GS 750TZ
        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

        Comment


          #5
          well actually i never did the rebuild, i got to the first set of split rings i needed to do and they did not want to budge so i just filled the forks up with the correct amount of oil from the bottom bolt with the allen key fitting, thats the only bolt i have taken off. its been two days with them oiled and filled with air to spec and no leak so id say i can wait for the seals a bit longer. i havent set the bike on its own weight yet as i wanted to ensure the top fork tube is seated how it needs to be.
          Ian

          1982 GS650GLZ
          1982 XS650

          Comment


            #6
            That is not the bolt that you're supposed to remove to drain the fork oil, but whatever. I often don't understand the process you use to work on your bike. Good Luck.
            Rich
            1982 GS 750TZ
            2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

            BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
            Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
              That is not the bolt that you're supposed to remove to drain the fork oil, but whatever. I often don't understand the process you use to work on your bike. Good Luck.

              i know thats not the bolt i have drained and refilled the oil before using the correct bolt. the bolt i took off is one of the first to take off in the rebuild process, i never got farther than that because the split rings didnt want to budge. im saying i was able to fill it up from there because its where the fork oil was draining as a took it off. ive heard people saying it takes them 20 minutes each fork to fill up with oil and im wondering if thats where theyre talking about. really i just need to know if i sat the top fork tube correctly.
              Ian

              1982 GS650GLZ
              1982 XS650

              Comment


                #8
                The correct first step was to drain the fork oil out of the correct hole. I don’t know what you’re doing. I don’t think I can help you.
                Rich
                1982 GS 750TZ
                2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                Comment


                  #9
                  Photo of area in question on a '82 750T:

                  it's a bolt and not an Allen head taken off.




                  Mr Bill made a mess while removing the bolt to drain the fork oil.



                  Ed

                  ****
                  GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                  GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                  GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                  my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
                  Originally posted by GSXR7ED
                  Forums are pretty much unrecognizable conversations; simply because it's a smorgasbord of feedback...from people we don't know. It's not too difficult to ignore the things that need to be bypassed.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    LOL. People often think I'm crazy for saying it, but it's actually easier and faster to pull the forks off the bike to change the fork oil. Especially if you want to set the oil height accurately.

                    And if you synch the oil change to your front tire replacement it's even more the case.
                    '20 Ducati Multistrada 1260S, '93 Ducati 750SS, '01 SV650S, '07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350

                    Comment


                      #11
                      That sounds like a lot of work Rich...what else is involved besides removing the wheel...? (I mean that in a genuinely way and not facetious)

                      Mr Bill had a heck of a time taking the bolt off...and made the mess you see on the floor and cushion things. The top of the fork bolts were also taken off to put the oil in.

                      Ed

                      ****
                      Last edited by GSXR7ED; 10-09-2021, 09:31 AM.
                      GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                      GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                      GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                      my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
                      Originally posted by GSXR7ED
                      Forums are pretty much unrecognizable conversations; simply because it's a smorgasbord of feedback...from people we don't know. It's not too difficult to ignore the things that need to be bypassed.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ed,
                        I think you're confused. This isn't my thread. I'm not the one w/ the fork issues. I've successfully rebuilt my forks/replaced seals a few years ago using the prescribed methods. This is Ian's thread/issue. You're welcome to try to help him. I have no idea what he's even attempting to do at this point.
                        Rich
                        1982 GS 750TZ
                        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View Post
                          Ed,
                          I think you're confused. This isn't my thread. I'm not the one w/ the fork issues. I've successfully rebuilt my forks/replaced seals a few years ago using the prescribed methods. This is Ian's thread/issue. You're welcome to try to help him. I have no idea what he's even attempting to do at this point.
                          Ok...my mistake! lol

                          Removing the bolt at the bottom of the fork with an Allen wrench got my attention...since it's a bolt.

                          Time to move on.

                          Ed

                          ****
                          GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                          GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                          GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                          my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
                          Originally posted by GSXR7ED
                          Forums are pretty much unrecognizable conversations; simply because it's a smorgasbord of feedback...from people we don't know. It's not too difficult to ignore the things that need to be bypassed.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by RichDesmond View Post
                            LOL. People often think I'm crazy for saying it, but it's actually easier and faster to pull the forks off the bike to change the fork oil.
                            I've heard that before. Not so crazy.
                            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by GSXR7ED View Post
                              That sounds like a lot of work Rich...what else is involved besides removing the wheel...? (I mean that in a genuinely way and not facetious)

                              Mr Bill had a heck of a time taking the bolt off...and made the mess you see on the floor and cushion things. The top of the fork bolts were also taken off to put the oil in.

                              Ed

                              ****
                              Well, if try to do it the "easy" way, you're going to drain the oil with that little drain screw on the lower side, right?
                              So, you unscrew that. Oil goes all over, as you can see. Some of that oil will likely get on the brake disk, so that has to be thoroughly cleaned. If you're unlucky, it's on the tire too. More clean up. Repeat on other side.
                              Now you have to put oil in, so you have to make sure there's no weight on the front end. Loosen top triple bolts, remove fork caps. Pull out spacers and springs. Careful!! They're going to drip oil everywhere. Now you have to block the front wheel up somehow so you can set the oil level properly. Do that. Make sure you have put the drain screws back in first. Put springs and spacers back in, put fork caps on. Clean up the oil you missed at first.

                              Whereas, my way: Pull wheel, take off fender. Loosen top triple bolts, loosen fork caps. Loosen lower triple bolts, slide fork tube out. Unscrew fork cap, dump oil, spacers and springs out into bucket. Let forks drain for a bit. Throw a little ATF in the tubes and then pump it back out to flush internals. Refill, measure, reinstall.

                              It really is easier and faster, and you do a better job. And like I said, if you combine it with a front tire change (which, being as lazy as the next guy, I usually do) it's that much faster.
                              '20 Ducati Multistrada 1260S, '93 Ducati 750SS, '01 SV650S, '07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X