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Adjusting clearances on all four intake valves by removing cam shaft?

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    #16
    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
    If you were to loosen the tensioner set screw locknut, then crank down the set screw to lock the tensioner plunger in its current position, you may be able to pull the cam at that point. I say "may" because I'm not sure if you will have enough slack in the cam chain at that point. It won't hurt to try though.
    Thanks. Now the conundrum is if I should do that at:
    1. When the "1" arrow mark on the exhaust cam is pointed forward. The cam chain is relatively tight (i.e. less available slack), but this is the official assembly reference
    -or-
    2. Find a spot in the cycle where the cam chain is relatively loose, providing the most possible slack but more adjustment would be needed during re-assembly.

    My initial guess is #2 since chain slack may be an issue anyway. Or maybe tighten down the set screw while in the position described in #1, then rotate the crank to a point of maximum slack. Risk is that the change in chain tension causes the chain to jump a tooth. Or maybe I'm dwelling on this too much.

    Any recommendation?
    Last edited by sacruickshank; 01-01-2022, 02:06 PM.
    Current rides: GS650L, GS550T, GL500, GL1100, Bonnie, Triumph Adventurer, Guzzi California

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      #17
      Originally posted by sacruickshank View Post
      @Gorminrider - Are you saying that if the tensioner is currently installed correctly, the camshafts could be removed without having to remove and reset the tensioner? I'm asking because I'm now in the gasket cleaning phase (a.k.a petrified gasket hell) and it *might* be easier if the camshafts were removed.

      If the tensioner has to be removed & reset then the carbs will have to come off. Not the hardest thing since the related rubber bits on the bike are in good shape.

      If I want to really take the plunge I could take the entire cylinder head off, but than the head gasket might get damaged further extending my sentence in gasket hell.
      I can't remember if I locked the tensioner in place. Could be a big help. Can't remember how i held the cams up while I fiddled but that'll be obvious anyways. Wooden sticks come to mind but there's lots of rough casting so a screwdriver can do

      It's been two or more years since I went through the exercise of lifting the cam to read all the shims,write a table for future reference, and swap some around. You don't need much room . I remember needing two shims after that but it would have been more without the cunning swaps ...I remember doing what i describe but I can't remember much more except winkling the shims out of their buckets against the oils suction (the buckets rotate to a good spot) and swapping them around.
      I don't remember it NOT working and having to remove the tensioner, but hey, try it because it only takes a minute and you're going to remove the tensioner anyways if I'm wrong in memory. ..so Yes, that's what I'm saying. The cam chain tensioner rod is itself spring-loaded to always be pushing into the engine against the blade, but pulling the loosened cam upward (or idea: maybe just pushing the top of the tensioner blade if it's accessible in the tunnel) can exert enough force along the chain to push it in enough to give you enough slack...
      Last edited by Gorminrider; 01-04-2022, 12:54 PM.

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        #18
        Hey, Changing 4 shims isn't a big deal. Removing & replacing cam, replacing 4 shims & getting everything back together properly is a much bigger deal. As always, Just my opinion.
        1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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          #19
          I already have experience removing both cams, tensioner, and the cyl head before on my 550T ... and successfully getting it all back together and running properly. I know I can do it, just trying to minimize effort where appropriate and possible.

          My 650L project is currently at the cyl head gasket scraping phase, so removing cams would mainly be a precaution to avoid accidently hitting a cam lobe with a scraping tool. Will try removing the cams while leaving the tensioner installed since removing the tensioner also requires removing the carbs.
          Last edited by sacruickshank; 01-04-2022, 04:37 PM.
          Current rides: GS650L, GS550T, GL500, GL1100, Bonnie, Triumph Adventurer, Guzzi California

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            #20
            Oh OK, I didn't realize you had already BTDT & know what's involved. Just be sure the tensioner "is locked down good" before taking anything loose.
            1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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              #21
              When we rebuilt my 1100 engine the cams were out. We put them in to measure the clearances & left them well alone and swapped out shims the traditional way. The less you mess with them the better in my opinion. The threads are somewhat delicate there.....
              1980 GS1000G - Sold
              1978 GS1000E - Finished!
              1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
              1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
              2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
              1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
              2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

              www.parasiticsanalytics.com

              TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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                #22
                Originally posted by 93Bandit View Post
                Just my humble opinion, but I think pulling the cam is more work than just checking clearances the traditional way. Not to mention pulling the cam opens up the possibilities of something going wrong because it's unnecessary additional steps.

                I have the suzuki special tool and it's really quick and easy to use. Some on the forum prefer the zip tie method, but for $15 I think the tool is cheap and easy enough to use, no sense in fiddling around with zip ties. Some say the tool is finicky to use, but I've never had an issue.
                Some buckets have more bevel on the lip of the bucket which means less surface for the tool to ride on making it prone to slip off.
                1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
                1983 GS 1100 G
                2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
                2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
                1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

                I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

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                  #23
                  To close out the thread, I was able to get the shims adjusted and the gasket surface cleaned without touching the camshafts or tensioner. A few small spots left to clean up, but generally in good shape. Thanks for all the advice none the less.

                  As some have mentioned, for whatever reason the Suzi tool worked better on the intake buckets than on the exhaust. Maybe due to the bucket edge as some have mentioned.

                  Also, a carbide gasket scraper works great, used in conjunction with an exacto knife with a 3/8" flat blade. I know some recommend using only plastic to avoid gouging, but in my experience that is not strong enough to remove 40 year old petrified gaskets and scotchbrite is dangerous near open engines.
                  PXL_20220108_195907940.jpg
                  Current rides: GS650L, GS550T, GL500, GL1100, Bonnie, Triumph Adventurer, Guzzi California

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                    #24
                    The MotionPro version of the Suzuki tool has some sloppy casting. There is a tiny raised stripe around the center of the perimeter. Gently filing that down some makes it a little less prone to slip sideways.
                    1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
                    1983 GS 1100 G
                    2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
                    2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
                    1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

                    I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by 1948man View Post
                      Some buckets have more bevel on the lip of the bucket which means less surface for the tool to ride on making it prone to slip off.
                      Ah, that makes sense. Fortunately I haven't ran into that yet. To be clear, I have had it slip off the bucket before, but it had to do with the angle I was pushing down on the handle. Once I learned the correct way to push the handle, it's been trouble free thus far.
                      - 1983 GS850L ~ 30,000 miles and going up - Finally ready for a proper road trip!
                      - 1977 GS750B - Sold but not forgotten

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