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Thread: Will Electrex provide more watts?

  1. #1
    Anonymous Guest

    Default Will Electrex provide more watts?

    Reposting this ? as no answer back in Sept.

    If GS850 does not have sufficient alternator output to handle aux driving lights as has been posted here, will the Electrex unit allow a pair of 55 watt driving lights to be run without trouble?

  2. #2
    SqDancerLynn1 Guest


    Chances are that it will work fine If they are used by them selves, if you are using them in addition to the headlight It will probably be too much for the elec system. I have a 55/100w H4 in my 850 and it works fine. I would talk to someone at a motor rewinding shopYou may be able to increase the wire dia to increase the output current I think the stock stator output is about 250 watts OR just hook them up and try it

  3. #3
    Anonymous Guest

    Default Electrex

    Thanks for your response. I actually do want to use aux lighting in addition to the headlite for safety on deer populated back roads & just to throw a big flame in general. Just wanted to know if the Electrex has more wattage output than stock & if so how much.

  4. #4
    argonsagas's Avatar
    argonsagas is offline Forum LongTimer Charter Member
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    Toronto, Canada


    Actually, your best bet in getting more light on the road is to use the newest H-4 bulbs in a good headlight unit. They look blue, but cast a white light. Big, and very well-worthwhile difference over halogen, and an incredible difference over standard sealed beams.

    You don't need to raise the wattage to realise a very significant difference on both high and low beams.
    "The only thing worse than ignorance is arrogance." AE

  5. #5
    Hap Call Guest


    I believe the stock units put out 230 Watts and using BOTH the Electrex regulator/rectifier AND stator you can get 300 Watts. That is how it works on my '81 1100...


  6. #6
    Anonymous Guest

    Default Electrex replies

    Thanks Ron & Hap for your replies.

    Ron, are these "newer" H-4 bulbs just different color light or are these the 100watt units? I heard the 100 watters can cook the thin wiring although I have used a relay & 14 guage wiring to bypass this issue on my 850.
    When I go to the auto parts store and look in JC Whitney catalogue there are many different hulbs. Is there some clear way to identify the bulbs you refer to? Brand, model # etc? There's just a lot of choice out there.

    Thanks again for your posts.

  7. #7
    saaz Guest


    I have used a 130 bulb in mine, but only with a reflector and lense that can handle the extra heat. This requires relays and wiring to the headlight, plus relays on the ignition circuit and on the charging circuit to make the path of the current as direct as possible.

    Be careful with some of those coloured bulbs. Many actually put out less effective light even thought hey may seem more effective.. I came across a site that explained the ins and outs of lighting..but forget now...

  8. #8
    Clone Guest


    Does the diameter of the wire in the windings and the number of wraps affect the output of a stator? If so, then wouldn't you be able to increase your powersupply with a rewound stator? I've always been curious about this. :?

  9. #9
    saaz Guest


    It is possible to increase the output, but I tried to emulate the original wiring as I did not want to experiment! It probbaly gave out a bit more when new, at the moment it may be around standard output.

  10. #10
    Hap Call Guest


    Quote Originally Posted by Clone
    Does the diameter of the wire in the windings and the number of wraps affect the output of a stator? If so, then wouldn't you be able to increase your powersupply with a rewound stator? I've always been curious about this. :?
    Yes, the diameter and number of wraps do make a difference along with air gap between the rotating magnets and the stator windings. The problem with a rewind is that you are limited in the space you have in the stator slots. Also, changing the diameter and number of wraps also changes your electrical characteristics - you may end up with a higher or lower voltage output than you wanted.

    Heat is a big killer in the stator (also in the regulator/rectifier) so the best you can do is to put better insulation materials in the stator that can handle the heat better. Originally the stators were wound with a class "B" insulation system that can handle heating up to 130 degrees C (I believe that is correct). There are new materials out there that are class "F" (155 degrees C), class "H" (180 degrees C), class "N" (200 degrees C), class "R" (220 degrees C) and class "S" (240 degrees C) that have much higher heat resistance...but may have some drawbacks such as being brittle and unflexible or cannot tolerate oil. Also a oil cooler will help keep oil temp undercontrol in the motor, which in turn will give you a cooler stator.


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