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Cleaning Oxides from Motor

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    #16
    The place I work at uses ice blasters. It's a pretty interesting method of removal, but I can attest to the fact that it will remove just about anything. Whatever that won't get off a bead blaster with silicone beads will do nicely. I sure wish I had one to blast the paint off my tank so I could repaint it.

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      #17
      Nothing works better on the side cases than "Solvo Autosol" aluminum polish and for the fins, high heat aluminum paint - very quick to dry and the piant on my 850 has been on for over 15 years.

      see Pic attached.





      As said by a few - just a little elbow grease too. Have fun rubbing - wax on - wax off! \\/

      Hellcat
      Last edited by Guest; 05-26-2006, 06:11 PM.

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        #18
        "OFF" Spray on oven cleaner.
        Wear a mask! as the smell is intense.
        Try it, it really does work.

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          #20
          Watch taht Purple Power on blacktop driveways. it will discolor and disolve the surface. Don't apply Simple Green or Purple Power to a warm engine or allow to sit on a aluminum engine for too long as it will react. Wet the engine before applying it and clean it off completely.

          Simple Green is Biodegradeable, Purple Power less so.

          I use Lacquer Thinner to clean an engine off, it works too.
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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            #21
            cleaning oxides

            Greetings,
            Just to share my experiences. I was going for a brushed aluminum look or a clean surface to be painted.
            I removed the part to be cleaned, sprayed it with aircraft remover to cut the clearcoat, washed the parts with baking soda and water to nutralize the acid in the cleaner, then I used scotch brite pads in a dremel tool to polish away the oxides(elbow grease will also work). The more you polish using finer and finer grit polishing compounds will result in a mirror finish. I used the brushed look,then did the once over by hand to even it out, washed with laquer thinner and let dry. I then primed the parts with hi-temp primer and let dry, did a scuff coat and repeated 3 times. I used a satin finish black paint for the color coat(3x)also hi-temp. I applied 3 coats of clear satin hi-temp. for the finish coat. The end results were better than I hoped for, and seemed to be quite durable as well. I did this process on the cam end covers, points cover and side cover below the starter. I hope this info will help. Have a great summer and be safe.

            Andy
            1986 GS1150ES "JUNO QUICK”
            1984 GS1100GK
            1982 GS1100E “RANGER”
            1978 GS750E-"JUNO RIOT" on the road in 2013
            1980 GS550GL complete, original, 4900 miles

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              #22
              I wish i had it as easy as that,the engine i've got to work on will not be such a push over as it was sitting in the bike for about ten years near the ocean. The cases are a powdery mess with corrosion all over it, if the thing didnt only have 9,000 and a bit miles on it i'd have stripped it down and vapour blasted it.
              So heres my plan which will be as close to open heart surgery as you can get, i am going to sand blast the engine while its still together, covering all holes and seals with protective covers to stop sand ingress and damage to items such as oil seals etc.
              Once ive got this done, which will take some serious time because you have to remove only the corrosion and not wear the cases with excess abrasion, ill prime and paint the engine met silver and clearcoat it. Yeah i know the outer covers wont be polished but they keep turning anyway so for now ill set it up as all met silver.

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                #23
                AGTbar---Make sure you use the proper media. Glass beads, or Walnut shells will wear the aluminum less than sand. Other than that, media blasting works really well.


                I have also found that diesel fuel is about the best thing out there for degunking an engine. No smoking people. As far as a polish goes...I prefer the wet sand method. Start with 220, and work your way up to about 800, then use rubbing compond, and then polishing compound. Finish it off with mothers, or equivalant. Once its shiney, a powerball works wonders for keeping it that way.

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                  #24
                  I'm new to all this, but my engine desperately needs help. I can't get it to polish right, but I'm confused about something. You all talk about painting your engine. Is that something that I need to do? I was hoping to be able to clean it on the bike.

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