The open source Rectifier/Regulator

[posplayr]

Sound like you ahev doen one of these rebuilds

There are a couple of schematics for this type of regulator, but they turn out to be a bit clumsy to assemble and prone to environmental attack, heat, water, mud etc.

I'm still looking for the designs. I'm guessing that none of these designs are encased in epoxy?

The best approach is to use the highest capacity (current & voltage limits) components you can fit into the housing and it should preferably have a transistor controlled the scr gate.

Do you have a modified parts list, and given the changes of zener from transitor are you accomplishing this by just having the tranny on flying leads?


The voltage should also be adjustable, allowing you to tweak it to whatever pickup point you are using for your monitor and all three phases should have an scr for regulation.

All in all, given the sensitivities the GS shunt regulator design has the large series load (i.e. the head lamp) helps divert power away from the regulator. With the direct phase connection to the headlight seems to be a good alternative to retain even with a new R/R. The headlight seems to be designed to handle the unregulated output and there is no danger if the filiment goes out; that phase just doesn't produce power. Regulating all three legs just puts a larger thermal demand on the regulator and if you power the head lamp from the regulated supply the shunt currents will have to go up if the head lamp burns out. Please explain if there is some other reason to regulate oll three legs of the stator; I dont see it.


The GS needs to always have the oil level at the top as low oil tends to allow more overheating of the stator during abnormal conditions.

I can see why. :?
Use a Dremel to cut out the epoxy that holds the old components and rebuild it in the same housing and reseal again with epoxy.

I already bought the Electrosport stator and R/R and will be comparing them to the OEM units. I'm diagnosing the wiring harness this morning. My bike has gotten hot in the past. It fried a ground strap but fortunately there was no catostophic burning in the rest of the harness.

I have fashioned some copper heat sinks made of 1" copper pipe. I'll post pictures once it is all sorted. The OEM R/R case mounting as far as thermal flow is concerned is "poor" at best. Same cound be said about the grounding. Using rubber mounts for grounds provide only the minimalist contact to ground.

Posplayr

[Matchless]

As usual the schematics that are available are designed by various people with different views on what is the best way to go about it and then obviously differ in approach and some can be very defensive of their point of views. None of the schematics I have seen were designed by myself, but I have read many opposing opinions on the best solution.
Those points were just what came out of many arguments and which seem to me to be the most valid and may not in the opinion of some experts be theoretically correct.
Again reinventing the wheel, does not make much sense here to most and they rather go for an proven design, such as replacing with a Honda type, that has proven to be more robust. The problem with building your own to a different design is that it needs actual fields tests to ensure that the theoretical and practical design of a new schematic/circuit actually can actually stand up to the unforeseen and this is not always easy to simulate.
So please read my comments as thoughts only to keep in mind if you intend building your own and if you feel that regulating less than all 3 phases is best, then you are most probably looking at it the same way the design engineers did in 1980 and you could be perfectly correct.
If you have bought an after market type it may be of a better design and be more robust, but using a proven type from a manufacturer that has many out in the field may be a better option. Building your own may be more in line with a hobby challenge than a practical decision in my opinion.
If you do manage to build a robust and practical regulator, please share it with the forum as these things are always useful to others and also very informative.

[posplayr]

Any schematics would be useful

As usual the schematics that are available are designed by various people with different views on what is the best way to go about it and then obviously differ in approach and some can be very defensive of their point of views. None of the schematics I have seen were designed by myself, but I have read many opposing opinions on the best solution.

I'm approaching 30 years or technical experience in electrical and systems engineering and have run (10 of those years) a small R&D engineering company producing ruggidized flightworthy H/W and S/W and I don't doubt that there are many non technical types that wonder why engineers get paid as much as they do. In theory this should not be that controversial of a subject.

I'm viewing it as an opprotunity to make my GS750 reliable and one I figure that out I will probaly buy another undervalued Susuki. \\/

I'll share what ever my conclusions are with the board. I'm not looking to develop a custom designed R/R, but then again the linear shunt regulator technology involved is really pretty basic so it would not be insurmountable. I'm more looking for alternatives that are more robust.

Again reinventing the wheel, does not make much sense here to most and they rather go for an proven design, such as replacing with a Honda type, that has proven to be more robust.

Has the Honda regulator retrofit proven more reliable that say a ElectroSport regulator with Stator? I dont even know if that is a fair question given the variation of GS bikes and stator quality. :-|

The problem with building your own to a different design is that it needs actual fields tests to ensure that the theoretical and practical design of a new schematic/circuit actually can actually stand up to the unforeseen and this is not always easy to simulate.

I have scopes and current probes and can measure most of the parameters directly. There should not be a lot of road testing required to figure out what might be problematic. The main problem with the GS electrical design is that it basically ignores the "unforeseen" changes in load or component failures. It seems to work when it works otherwise it takes a large part of the charging system down when there is a failure. That is a problem that yet another shunt regulator will not fix.


So please read my comments as thoughts only to keep in mind if you intend building your own and if you feel that regulating less than all 3 phases is best, then you are most probably looking at it the same way the design engineers did in 1980 and you could be perfectly correct.

I suspect so as the technical rational is clear, I was wondering for what reason had this approach been filtered out of the retrofits.


If you have bought an after market type it may be of a better design and be more robust, but using a proven type from a manufacturer that has many out in the field may be a better option.

I did; It appears that Electrosport have a robust option, the question is how much different are they really than the OEM Susuki or Honda rerofit.


Building your own may be more in line with a hobby challenge than a practical decision in my opinion.
If you do manage to build a robust and practical regulator, please share it with the forum as these things are always useful to others and also very informative.

As stated earlier I will share my findings. For the time being I woudl appreciate any schematics that are avaliable of any of any of the above (GS R/R, Honda R/R, Electrosport R/R and even a GS schematic is somebody has it). I have a shop manual on order but with Xmas it will be luck to get here by the new year.

Posplayr

[duaneage]

Or you could order a modified and tested Honda RR kit from Duaneage for 40.00 delivered and admire the performance of the ShinDenGen regulator in all it's glory.

I have plenty of stock and ship the next day.

(This is a shameless plug for my RR upgrade kits)

[posplayr]

Do you take paypal

I assume you have instructions?

[duaneage]

Instructions and a wiring diagram. I also include bolts to replace the dreaded phillips head screws and new connectors for the stator leads and the battery box lead. Custom wire lengths are also not a problem/

[BassCliff]

Inexpensive, quick, and easy. I'm using a unit from Mr. duaneage and I have no complaints. For you 850 owners, you may want to ask Mr. duaneage to use a little longer sense wire (if your unit has one). Mine was just barely long enough to connect to the rear brake switch.

Thanks Mr. duaneage. You perform a good service.

I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread and I appreciate those who have spent time on R&D. But sometimes you just want to fix it and ride.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff