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    Cam Degreeing or not

    How important is it to degree a set of drop in Web Cams in a GS1150 .340 lift or even a set of .348 lift. Would it increase H.P. or just move the power band around..Thanks..I know Web recommends degreeing all there cams.Is it a power thing or a safety measure? Thanks..
    sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

    #2
    You need to degree them timed at the figures they quote for the power characteristics they claim.
    Just bolting them in on stock sprockets may leave them advanced or retarded a degree or so.
    The profile is usually ground pretty close to the stock cam sprocket mount but tooling wear etc can't guarantee that it's spot on so degreeing is the only way to get it correct.
    The LC method is easy and straight forward and worth learning if you want to play with the effect of closing the centers etc without lining somebody else's pocket.
    Mikuni Viton Choke Plunger Seat Renewal.
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      #3
      Originally posted by gs11ezrydr View Post
      Is it a power thing or a safety measure? Thanks..
      I'm sure there is some of both in that recommendation.

      First, stock cam timing can be all over the place. There is plenty of tolerance stack up and wear available to significantly alter it from the design numbers. You should realize that the cams turn 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft. Cam timing is measured at the crank, so a 1 degree change at the crank is 0.5 degrees at the cam. That is a very small amount of play but is big enough to noticeably affect how the engine runs.

      Second, it makes no sense to me to spend the money for aftermarket cams and then not bother to degree them. You spent real $$$ to get a high performance part for your bike and now you want to cheap out on the installation and possibly compromise the performance of the expensive part you just bought?

      If you have never degreed cams you will be amazed by how much you can alter the character of the motor with only a small change. IMO, it is absolutely worth the time required to do it.


      Mark
      1982 GS1100E
      1998 ZX-6R
      2005 KTM 450EXC

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        #4
        GS11ezrydr, are your Web Cam cams new or used?
        Ryan

        1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
        1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

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          #5
          Originally posted by zed1015 View Post
          The LC method is easy and straight forward and worth learning if you want to play with the effect of closing the centers etc without lining somebody else's pocket.
          Can you expand on what the LC method is? Or, if you have a link you can drop that would be super helpful.
          Last edited by RustyTank; 02-23-2021, 04:47 PM.
          Ryan

          1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
          1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

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            #6
            I think what zed is referring to, is the "lobe center" method whereby you would roll forward until you get .040" of valve lift and note degree wheel. Go at it from the other side until you get .040" valve lift and note degree wheel. Lobe center is the mathematical difference between the two

            ie https://www.cpgnation.com/finding-th...be-centerline/
            Paul


            sigpic




            Originally posted by Grimly
            Watery bints handing out swords is no basis for any system of government.

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              #7
              Yes! i was referring to the lobe center method of timing the cams.
              Here's a link to one of many sites that give you the lowdown and much quicker than me typing it all out.
              Web Cam Racing Cams Inc. / Degreeing (webcamshafts.com)
              Despite what the makers say you can use any valve clearance you like ( even negative ) when you do the calcs but be sure to use the same clearance throughout if doing comparisons with duration figures ,the final LC result will be the same.
              Mikuni Viton Choke Plunger Seat Renewal.
              VITON Choke plunger seals .KAWASAKI Z1,Z900,Z650,Z1000,Z1R,SUZUKI GS1000,GSXR,RF | eBay

              Air Corrector Jets for Mikuni VM 24, 26 and 28mm carbs .
              https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254380193...84.m1555.l2649



              sigpic

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                #8
                Originally posted by gs11ezrydr View Post
                How important is it to degree a set of drop in Web Cams? I know Web recommends degreeing all there cams.
                I'll preface my comment with, the more I learn about degreeing cams and how important/helpful it can be, the more I'm inclined to just say yes, degree your cams.

                That said, it may be worth it for you to call Web Cam and ask them directly. I recently purchased a used set of Web Cam brand Street Cams for my bike and wanted to make sure I knew what the manufacturer recommended, so I gave them a call. My cams are considered by Web Cam to be 'Bolt In' cams, which means, from their perspective the cams don't need to be degreed. In other words they can be installed like stock cams and should work just fine. That said, and I'm just repeating myself here, the more I learn about cam degreeing the more I'm thinking it would be a great skill to learn and is clearly the thorough way to install after market cams. Just my two cents.

                Additionally, if your cams are used and you're not entirely sure whether they're in acceptable shape, you can send them to Web Cam and they'll take a look at them for you for the price of shipping. I'd give em a call first. I've found them to be super helpful.
                Last edited by RustyTank; 02-23-2021, 10:00 PM.
                Ryan

                1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
                1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by slayer61 View Post
                  I think what zed is referring to, is the "lobe center" method whereby you would roll forward until you get .040" of valve lift and note degree wheel. Go at it from the other side until you get .040" valve lift and note degree wheel. Lobe center is the mathematical difference between the two

                  ie https://www.cpgnation.com/finding-th...be-centerline/
                  Originally posted by zed1015 View Post
                  Yes! i was referring to the lobe center method of timing the cams.
                  Here's a link to one of many sites that give you the lowdown and much quicker than me typing it all out.
                  Web Cam Racing Cams Inc. / Degreeing (webcamshafts.com)
                  Despite what the makers say you can use any valve clearance you like ( even negative ) when you do the calcs but be sure to use the same clearance throughout if doing comparisons with duration figures ,the final LC result will be the same.
                  Thanks guys. This is super helpful info.
                  Ryan

                  1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
                  1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by RustyTank View Post
                    GS11ezrydr, are your Web Cam cams new or used?
                    New..never been installed.. And thanks to all for the insight, I have a degree wheel,dial indicator,base and stand,piston stops,etc.I,m satisfied it's worth the time and money..I was just curious about others opinions..And if anyone ever experienced what happened just bolting them to stock sprockets,I'll slot the stockers a little or order a set of aftermarket sprockets...should make tuning a lot easier.. Thanks,
                    Last edited by gs11ezrydr; 02-23-2021, 11:45 PM.
                    sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by gs11ezrydr View Post
                      New..never been installed.. And thanks to all for the insight, I have a degree wheel,dial indicator,base and stand,piston stops,etc.I,m satisfied it's worth the time and money.
                      Oh nice dude. Sounds like you've got everything you need
                      Ryan

                      1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
                      1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by RustyTank View Post

                        That said, it may be worth it for you to call Web Cam and ask them directly. I recently purchased a used set of Web Cam brand Street Cams for my bike and wanted to make sure I knew what the manufacturer recommended, so I gave them a call. My cams are considered by Web Cam to be 'Bolt In' cams, which means, from their perspective the cams don't need to be degreed. In other words they can be installed like stock cams and should work just fine.
                        I have to say that drop in cams refers to the fact that the the lift is such that the head does not need any clearance work around the bucket bores or cam cover for the cams to be "dropped straight in" and rotate freely .
                        They still need to be degreed in to achieve the exact listed timing specs.
                        Non drop in cams have lift that is so increased over stock that they won't rotate without the lobes hitting the head casting and clearance work is required.
                        Last edited by zed1015; 02-24-2021, 05:55 AM.
                        Mikuni Viton Choke Plunger Seat Renewal.
                        VITON Choke plunger seals .KAWASAKI Z1,Z900,Z650,Z1000,Z1R,SUZUKI GS1000,GSXR,RF | eBay

                        Air Corrector Jets for Mikuni VM 24, 26 and 28mm carbs .
                        https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254380193...84.m1555.l2649



                        sigpic

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by zed1015 View Post
                          I have to say that drop in cams refers to the fact that the the lift is such that the head does not need any clearance work around the bucket bores or cam cover for the cams to be "dropped straight in" and rotate freely .
                          They still need to be degreed in to achieve the exact listed timing specs.
                          Non drop in cams have lift that is so increased over stock that they won't rotate without the lobes hitting the head casting and clearance work is required.
                          Man, that is such good information. Thank you zed.

                          Can you, or someone else, suggest a cam degree kit? This question may be worth a post of it's own.

                          Sorry gs11ezrydr, I don't mean to hijack your thread
                          Last edited by RustyTank; 02-24-2021, 10:12 AM.
                          Ryan

                          1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
                          1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Do you know what you want? Cam timing changes things quite a bit. Some settings will give more torque, (lower rpm power) and other settings give more max HP but at a higher rpm. Stock settings are usually kind'f in the middle.
                            1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by rphillips View Post
                              Do you know what you want? Cam timing changes things quite a bit. Some settings will give more torque, (lower rpm power) and other settings give more max HP but at a higher rpm. Stock settings are usually kind'f in the middle.
                              How does one go about finding the settings for what they want?
                              Ryan

                              1979 GS850G - currently undergoing a major overhaul
                              1986 GSX-R750 - I'm figuring it out

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