Fuse blew twice, half my bulbs went out, voltage seems to high

[Guest]

The fourth fuse from the bottom. Rear lamp, headlamp (low, high and park), indicators bulbs, fifth gear bulb, neutral bulb died. Not at the same time.

It runs a little rough. Lose power when I accelerate. Does not like full throttle, when I let off the throttle it returns to normal.

The remaining gear bulbs are too bright, I can see white light. It goes to normal bright when I let off the throttle and it starts slowing down.

I ran it a little with 15a fuse for the fourth and fifth fuse. Had to get my grandfather to donate some correct ones.

Battery has some issue, it had 12.14 volts after charging all night, charger wont charge it more but says its not full.

Fuse box seems to have fresh corrosion, it has been stored inside a cold garage for 6 to 8 months. I have added about 12 litres of fresh fuel.

Any other ideas than scrape the fuse connectors and buy a new battery?

[GS1150Pilot]

How's the stator in that bike?

[tom203]

“Battery has some issue, it had 12.14 volts after charging all night, charger wont charge it more but says its not full. “

An overcharging r/r will smoke lightbulbs and eventually the battery....get a decent r/r ,new battery,and test afterwards.....no more than 14.5 volts .

[Guest]

How's the stator in that bike?

Not sure how I would check. Visual inspection?

“Battery has some issue, it had 12.14 volts after charging all night, charger wont charge it more but says its not full. “

An overcharging r/r will smoke lightbulbs and eventually the battery....get a decent r/r ,new battery,and test afterwards.....no more than 14.5 volts .

I took out the indicator bulbs on one side and replaced them, to rule out any wiring error making them not work. After replacing bulbs the indicators again works.

I guess Ill have to find the parts numbers for that R/R and the triumph harness thing.

Edit:
The R/R is SH775 and the triumph thing is T2500676, in case anyone after me needs them to solve the same issue. I will ask the local tractor store if they can source these two.

[Grimly]

The R/R is SH775 and the triumph thing is T2500676, in case anyone after me needs them to solve the same issue. I will ask the local tractor store if they can source these two.

If getting them locally as new items, the Triumph lead might not be too expensive (normally around €15 from a Triumph dealer), but the SH775 is now obsolete as new stock and either the used market from ebay US or new from ebay US is the only real practical source now, but avoiding the fakes. The updated replacement is the SH-748, but it's larger and might be an impossibly tight fit.

[Guest]

So I checked the battery voltage, it was at a nice 13 volts when I came out after it sitting all night. I then started the bike and it gradually climbs to something like 15 volt. At 5000 RPM I saw 18 volt before I decided to shut it down...

It seems to struggle a bit to start (water in fuel probably), but ran fine with the choke on after a few tries. A bit hard to tell because the bike doesn't like it around freezing.

Is there any way to reduce this voltage temporarily so I can still use the bike?

If getting them locally as new items, the Triumph lead might not be too expensive (normally around €15 from a Triumph dealer), but the SH775 is now obsolete as new stock and either the used market from ebay US or new from ebay US is the only real practical source now, but avoiding the fakes. The updated replacement is the SH-748, but it's larger and might be an impossibly tight fit.

I decided to ebay it after reading this. But that will take some time, so then the question is how to temporarily make it run properly. 18 volts is probably enough to fry the battery and the bulbs. And it seems the voltage increases the longer it stays at a certain rpm. Electricity confuses me so I don't really understand the processes.

Why does my fuse keep blowing though?

[roeme]

(....)I then started the bike and it gradually climbs to something like 15 volt. At 5000 RPM I saw 18 volt before I decided to shut it down...

(...)
Is there any way to reduce this voltage temporarily so I can still use the bike?

(...)

I decided to ebay it after reading this. But that will take some time, so then the question is how to temporarily make it run properly. 18 volts is probably enough to fry the battery and the bulbs. And it seems the voltage increases the longer it stays at a certain rpm. Electricity confuses me so I don't really understand the processes.

Why does my fuse keep blowing though?

Your regulator is fried; and you absolutely cannot run the bike without one; you're compounding the damage!

Fuses blow to _protect_ the rest of the system; this can be caused by either voltage or current climbing too high.

Sorry, but until you replace the R/R, your bike is grounded. If you really want to ride until your SH775 arrives; you can install almost any other known-good R/R (for example an used one from some other bike). You have to make sure to get a what's commonly referred to as a "5 wire / three phase AC" R/R. As for the rated power, I believe 30A should be sufficient. I recommend checking back with the forum when you get your hands on one.

[Guest]

Your regulator is fried; and you absolutely cannot run the bike without one; you're compounding the damage!

Fuses blow to _protect_ the rest of the system; this can be caused by either voltage or current climbing too high.

Sorry, but until you replace the R/R, your bike is grounded. If you really want to ride until your SH775 arrives; you can install almost any other known-good R/R (for example an used one from some other bike). You have to make sure to get a what's commonly referred to as a "5 wire / three phase AC" R/R. As for the rated power, I believe 30A should be sufficient. I recommend checking back with the forum when you get your hands on one.

Good that we have a definite diagnosis! Could I run it without the stator connected? I guess I can trailer it back to the garage.

Estimated delivery May 13, 2021 - Jun 06, 2021 <- Quite a big range of expected delivery for the SH775, the triumph harness should be here well before that.

I struggle finding a R/R with the right amount of wires, and it seems somewhat hard to source.

[tom203]

Here’s a typical 1980’s r/r used on millions of bikes.....shindengen sh-232
see if can locally source one...it’s a decent shunt style

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB400-CM400-OEM-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Factory-Reg-Rec-SH232-12-7-Y-/273534434347?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

[cowboyup3371]

Yes you could run it without the Stator connected but then how far are you comfortable riding it before you call for a tow truck to come pick you up? The stator’s primary mission is to keep that battery charged (think alternator in a car; similar concept)

[roeme]

Good that we have a definite diagnosis! Could I run it without the stator connected? I guess I can trailer it back to the garage.

Estimated delivery May 13, 2021 - Jun 06, 2021 <- Quite a big range of expected delivery for the SH775, the triumph harness should be here well before that.

I struggle finding a R/R with the right amount of wires, and it seems somewhat hard to source.

Yes, the word-wide supply chains currently do have quite broad ranges for delivery; covid, evergreen, etc. pp.

Generic three-phase R/R's are produced&used in the millions. Instead of exclusively online, you can also ask your nearest friendly motorcycle shop if they have an used one to spare, rummage through a scrapyard, or some local parts dealer.

You can disconnect the stator, yes, but the battery is intended for starting an engine, not prolonged use. Depending on what exactly you're trying to do; you run the risk of discharging your battery too far; this will damage it or at the very least shorten it's lifecycle considerably.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Noreg, you may want to post up a picture of the SH775 you bought on ebay. There are may fakes out there. You want a genuine Shindengen SH775. A picture of the top fin showing the white lettering, would almost guarantee that it's legitimate.

As stated, Running the bike while your battery is getting 18v from your defunct charging system isn't good for the battery, which you may want to replace anyway. Running your bike with out the stator connected will only let the bike run for so long. "you've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do you, punk?"

[Guest]

I don't know if this option is available, but if if you have a scrapyard/bike-breaker near you, pick up a R/R from any 80s/90s Honda. It should be easy enough to wire in, and will tide you over until you get your SH775.

[Guest]

Here’s a typical 1980’s r/r used on millions of bikes.....shindengen sh-232
see if can locally source one...it’s a decent shunt style

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB400....m46890.l49286

Thank you, this led me to the correct Norwegian term for this thing. Made it easier to google alternatives.

Yes you could run it without the Stator connected but then how far are you comfortable riding it before you call for a tow truck to come pick you up? The stator’s primary mission is to keep that battery charged (think alternator in a car; similar concept)

I had a car with a broken alternator, and it had a pretty limited range. But being able to ride it back to the garage would be easier.

Yes, the word-wide supply chains currently do have quite broad ranges for delivery; covid, evergreen, etc. pp.

Generic three-phase R/R's are produced&used in the millions. Instead of exclusively online, you can also ask your nearest friendly motorcycle shop if they have an used one to spare, rummage through a scrapyard, or some local parts dealer.

You can disconnect the stator, yes, but the battery is intended for starting an engine, not prolonged use. Depending on what exactly you're trying to do; you run the risk of discharging your battery too far; this will damage it or at the very least shorten it's lifecycle considerably.

I will check with the motorcycle repair place and such. Maybe post on a local facebook page.

Noreg, you may want to post up a picture of the SH775 you bought on ebay. There are may fakes out there. You want a genuine Shindengen SH775. A picture of the top fin showing the white lettering, would almost guarantee that it's legitimate.

As stated, Running the bike while your battery is getting 18v from your defunct charging system isn't good for the battery, which you may want to replace anyway. Running your bike with out the stator connected will only let the bike run for so long. "you've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do you, punk?"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264298636380 <- I got this one. I can post a picture when it arrives.

I don't know if this option is available, but if if you have a scrapyard/bike-breaker near you, pick up a R/R from any 80s/90s Honda. It should be easy enough to wire in, and will tide you over until you get your SH775.

I will ask around. I don't think there is scrapyards anywhere closer than Trondheim (900 kilometers, 600 miles). Could do the trip though (on the CBR125).

[Rich82GS750TZ]

"https://www.ebay.com/itm/264298636380 <- I got this one. I can post a picture when it arrives."

Looks legit! Good one. And $100 is a great price for a new one.