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Clutch basket welding - 1980 GS550E

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    Clutch basket welding - 1980 GS550E

    Hey folks, I've just pulled the clutch basket apart to fit washers to the rattling springs. When welding the old rivets to the retaining plate, does the rubber ring on the inside always melt? Or have I taken too long with the welder? It's come away slightly where the heat was.
    1996 GSF1200 — Pretty Much Standard.
    1983 GSX750ES — Cafe Racer Project
    1980 GS550E — 673 Conversion.
    1980 GS400 — Cafe Racer???

    http://biketech7.blogspot.com.au

    #2
    Originally posted by Chancho196 View Post
    Hey folks, I've just pulled the clutch basket apart to fit washers to the rattling springs. When welding the old rivets to the retaining plate, does the rubber ring on the inside always melt? Or have I taken too long with the welder? It's come away slightly where the heat was.
    yes you are right that insided rubber ring is melted during welding, welder have to use technique to prevent rubber
    Last edited by realrogerryan@gmail.com; 04-25-2021, 05:46 PM.

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      #3
      I always wondered if one of those angled tabs on the area the spring fits into could just be bent up, insert washer, and bend the tab back down.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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        #4
        Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
        I always wondered if one of those angled tabs on the area the spring fits into could just be bent up, insert washer, and bend the tab back down.
        Not really enough to get hold of - and the backplate appears to be high tensile steel sheet.
        What i've done a couple of times on road motors is insert a 2mm steel shim against the spring end - and TIG it to the backplate.
        Do all the springs like this and it's good to go for some years.

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          #5
          Originally posted by GregT View Post
          and TIG it to the backplate.
          Stick welding should also work
          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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            #6
            Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
            Stick welding should also work
            I've done it with the backplate and springs still in place. Stick, you'd risk welding the spring end in as well.

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              #7
              Originally posted by GregT View Post
              Stick, you'd risk welding the spring end in as well.
              Eh.... make the spacer a little proud and you shouldn't hit the spring.
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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                #8
                Sit it in a pan of water with as little as you dare sticking out. The water really sucks the heat out fast. You need to pour on the heat and get off of it fast when you weld. Don't get crazy with the water, the top needs to be dry. Make sure the area around the rivet and the rivet is clean, it will weld faster & better.

                I've done the washer on the spring mod, it can work for a while. You need a lot of control when welding it, I would highly recommend a TIG for that, but any welder can do it. If it is toast I saw one on Ebay yesterday for $29 free shipping, "make offer". It stuck in my mind because it was cheap and looked good.
                1981 GS1100E
                1982 GS1100E



                "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Aristotle

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