RacingJake
Forum Sage
Slapped the tranny and crank in and alittle RTV and she's back in the bike. Also pop the pistons and block in and should be ready for an ops check tomorrow once the head is on.
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1395 is completed.... Track time completed
- Thread starter RacingJake
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
Did you weld the crank??
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Not yet, but will see how it goes this year 8O
At least the head is on now :twisted:
At least the head is on now :twisted:
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Anonymous
Guest
That should be a real beast. Im surprised that you are willing to take a chance wih an unwelded crank though. On an engine of that size i mean.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Yeah I know what you mean. I figured it should have twisted by now, but what the heck. If I make it bullet proof then I'd get bored next winter.
I've seen cranks blow up and then exit the engine, even the welded one do it. So this year I'll take a chance.
I may not have a Hayabusa yet but I can say it's bigger than one.
I've seen cranks blow up and then exit the engine, even the welded one do it. So this year I'll take a chance.
I may not have a Hayabusa yet but I can say it's bigger than one.
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Anonymous
Guest
RacingJake said:
You dont actually think that a hyabusa is quicker than your ride Jake??
R
rosco15
Guest
Way to go Jake. Lookin good. SHould sound wicked.
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lecroy
Guest
Hey TJ, good to see someones making some progress. What's up with that one nice new looking piston?? You need to get this thing running so it won't look so out of place. It's going to be interesting to see how much it improves your time and MPH. I sure can't hurt it.
I have been making a few mods to my old bike this winter but it's been slow. Seems like every time I turn around something else is wrong. I finally have all the new parts for my turbocharger that I lost last summer. About the only thing that was good were the castings and the compressor wheel. Everything else is new. I also picked up a new regulator to try and tame the pressure dips with the nitrous.
I bought an old N2O tank at a car swap meet about 20 years ago. It's a "D" cylinder made of steel. I think I paid $20 back then with all the fittings. I never used it because I had a license to buy medical grade N2O and I would just rent the "E" cylinders. Now this is no longer an option. So I sent the old tank off to get certified which was another $28. Then $4/Lb refill charge with the crappy gas. The tank has the old style yoke clamp. When I took it in to get filled the kid just looked at me. "I have never seen a fitting like that". I had made up a recharge kit ahead of time with a 4N fitting. Good thing. N2O sure has come a LONG way in the last 20 years.
So much left to do...
I have been making a few mods to my old bike this winter but it's been slow. Seems like every time I turn around something else is wrong. I finally have all the new parts for my turbocharger that I lost last summer. About the only thing that was good were the castings and the compressor wheel. Everything else is new. I also picked up a new regulator to try and tame the pressure dips with the nitrous.
I bought an old N2O tank at a car swap meet about 20 years ago. It's a "D" cylinder made of steel. I think I paid $20 back then with all the fittings. I never used it because I had a license to buy medical grade N2O and I would just rent the "E" cylinders. Now this is no longer an option. So I sent the old tank off to get certified which was another $28. Then $4/Lb refill charge with the crappy gas. The tank has the old style yoke clamp. When I took it in to get filled the kid just looked at me. "I have never seen a fitting like that". I had made up a recharge kit ahead of time with a 4N fitting. Good thing. N2O sure has come a LONG way in the last 20 years.
So much left to do...
RacingJake
Forum Sage
I bought the mtc block and pistons from The Broker on DB.com and I did'nt like one of the pistons. He said he would replace it but has'nt (guess he has other major problems if you been over there) so I did just for peace of mind.
Got the carbs and tank on and she fired up tonight sounded pretty good too.
I'd like to drop another .5 sec and anything over 115 in the 1/8. Got my fingers crossed. I think it's do-able cause the 1166 dropped .5 and that was only 91cc more and 1395 to 1166 is 229cc more :idea:
Tomorrow it's a valve adjustment and chip reduction, going to keep it below 9K for redline and shift at 8.5k. Should be at the track in a few more weeks.
I saw a turbo kit for a Bandit under 2K couple days ago on DB or SB. Come to think of it my Falcon needs a n20 recharged too, last refill was $3.75 a pound.
Anyhow get her done, the tracks will be opening soon.
Got the carbs and tank on and she fired up tonight sounded pretty good too.
I'd like to drop another .5 sec and anything over 115 in the 1/8. Got my fingers crossed. I think it's do-able cause the 1166 dropped .5 and that was only 91cc more and 1395 to 1166 is 229cc more :idea:
Tomorrow it's a valve adjustment and chip reduction, going to keep it below 9K for redline and shift at 8.5k. Should be at the track in a few more weeks.
I saw a turbo kit for a Bandit under 2K couple days ago on DB or SB. Come to think of it my Falcon needs a n20 recharged too, last refill was $3.75 a pound.
Anyhow get her done, the tracks will be opening soon.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
FoolMeTwice said:
:?: :?: :?: :?: I hope
RacingJake
Forum Sage
rosco15 said:
Now that's what I'm taking about with the Pro Pipe, just like the big boy's
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lecroy
Guest
Should not be a problem for you. I use 9.5 as a upper limit as well. What did you end up with for sprockets, 15:44? What gear r u in at the end of the 8th?
RacingJake
Forum Sage
I'm running 14-46 gearing and I'd cross the line in fourth gear. If i stayed on it the shift light would come on about 100 feet or so past the line.
I should be good with the gearing and if the shift lite comes on before the line then I'll know it's picked up some speed.
I should be good with the gearing and if the shift lite comes on before the line then I'll know it's picked up some speed.
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lecroy
Guest
Not sure of your tire size, but running the numbers with a 26" tire if you were against the rev limiter at the end your speed would be 112. With a 28" tire, it would be around 120. Not too bad. Whats funny is my old GS can't run that speed in the 1/4.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
With a set of bars and more gear I bet you could.
I'm running a M/T 26x7 on a 5.5 rim. My chart shows 8275 rpms at 102mph and 115mph at 9300 rpms so both our math is good. I know the slick is slowing me down alittle at the top end and if I was running a 170 tire my mph may be around 107. But after getting the backend loose at the start and a few times midway down the track with the smaller tires, I'm more than happier to give up a few mph's with the slick.
I just can't wait until I get a few timeslips and compare them to my best from last year. They should show improvement at the 60, 330 and 660 so I think it's in the bag.
I'm running a M/T 26x7 on a 5.5 rim. My chart shows 8275 rpms at 102mph and 115mph at 9300 rpms so both our math is good. I know the slick is slowing me down alittle at the top end and if I was running a 170 tire my mph may be around 107. But after getting the backend loose at the start and a few times midway down the track with the smaller tires, I'm more than happier to give up a few mph's with the slick.
I just can't wait until I get a few timeslips and compare them to my best from last year. They should show improvement at the 60, 330 and 660 so I think it's in the bag.
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Anonymous
Guest
Jake
I thought I read that you are using an air shifter. I want to get one of those. Would you describe some of the problems that you ran into when getting it syncronized if that is necessary and Also did you experience any whatevers 8O when getting used to how long to hold the button down?
I thought I read that you are using an air shifter. I want to get one of those. Would you describe some of the problems that you ran into when getting it syncronized if that is necessary and Also did you experience any whatevers 8O when getting used to how long to hold the button down?
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Paul
Guest
Jake, I've gotta agree with FMT - get the crank welded. It only costs pennies! I know that a welded crank can still break, but un-welded it can (and probably will!) twist, then all the timing is shot at least - at worst the pistons will hammer the valves, break them off, shatter the pistons then put a hole in that nice new block you've got.
It just isn't worth the risk for a few pennies.
You don't need insurance to drive down the road, but if you have an accident you do!
It just isn't worth the risk for a few pennies.
You don't need insurance to drive down the road, but if you have an accident you do!
RacingJake
Forum Sage
My airshifter is an electric over air and I use a relay to ground my ignition kill circuit on my msd mc2 ignition. I use a reverse shift pattern and my shifter pushes down on the lever to shift into the next higher gear. The only way to adjust the kill time on mine is by holding the button down longer. The better air shifter's have a kill box that you can adjust the kill time from something like 50 to 90 milla-seconds. They work on the neg side of the coils and they may cause a back fire sometimes.
Airshifter work great when you get them dialed in. The only problem is charging up the bottle after 2 runs. I know a few folks that install a small 12 air compressor like you find at auto zone or pep boys on their bike and they just flip the switch on for 15 seconds and they are ready to go. If you don't go that route you'll still need to buy one so that you can service the bottle in the pits. It take's a little time to find a good place to install the the bottle and soleniod plus you have to mount the actuator and clevis on the shifter lever.
Nothing major and do-able on a weekend. Airshifter's do tend to spoil you.
Airshifter work great when you get them dialed in. The only problem is charging up the bottle after 2 runs. I know a few folks that install a small 12 air compressor like you find at auto zone or pep boys on their bike and they just flip the switch on for 15 seconds and they are ready to go. If you don't go that route you'll still need to buy one so that you can service the bottle in the pits. It take's a little time to find a good place to install the the bottle and soleniod plus you have to mount the actuator and clevis on the shifter lever.
Nothing major and do-able on a weekend. Airshifter's do tend to spoil you.
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Anonymous
Guest
Thanks Mr. racing or is it Mr. Jake
Well thanks R.J.
Well thanks R.J.
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GSJimbo
Guest
I agree with Paul there is no way I would build a GS motor with out getting or welding the crank,I learned the hard way, twisted one in a stocker......just my two cents..........