1983 GS450L Start Button Not Engaging Starter.

[sorrentino100]

It's been sitting. I put a charger on it and it's 12.6 volts. Lights come on. It was having a problem before it sat with intermittent problems with having the start button engage the starter.

I'll be replacing the battery because it's old but the above problem needs repair.

 

[Redman]

Possibly the clutch interlock switch. Try wiggles by the clutch lever while it is pulled in. If that makes a difference, or even if it doesn?t, investigate that. And it is adjustable by loosening the two screws and moving it some.

 

[sam000lee]

Does the solenoid click when you press the starter?

 

[sorrentino100]

No, nothing happening. I removed the old battery. It was an AGM type, wrong for this motorcycle. I' have a new Yuasa YuMicron on order and I'll start diagnosing after that is charged and installed. I don't see any clutch interlock.

 

[Redman]

................ I don't see any clutch interlock.

Any GS since 1970-something will have had it -- on the clutch lever, lever on the handle bar. Although some folks remove it and/or bypass it once it causes problems.

And I see it on this schematic
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=2370...0C6B!1031&parId=2370B62DDF9F0C6B!1030&o=OneUp
(Link available on BassCliff BikeCliff website.) On the schematic it is called "starter disconnect switch".

.

 

[sorrentino100]

I don't see anything on the clutch lever. I charged up the battery that was in it. I can turn the engine over by putting a screwdriver on the solenoid terminals. It won't start. The horn button also does not work. Any ideas on how to repair these problems? the horn and starter switch being inoperable.

 

[dennco2]

I don't see anything on the clutch lever. I charged up the battery that was in it. I can turn the engine over by putting a screwdriver on the solenoid terminals. It won't start. The horn button also does not work. Any ideas on how to repair these problems? the horn and starter switch being inoperable.

I had the same problem with starter switch not working. In my case, I pulled the switch housing apart (2 screws) and cleaned (sanded) the contacts real good. Then the juice flowed as it should through the yellow and green wire. Solenoid has to have a good ground and all connectors have to be clean (no corrosion)

 

[Redman]

............................. I can turn the engine over by putting a screwdriver on the solenoid terminals. .................

By terminalS I would think you mean the two big terminals. That is something of a usefull test, it proves that the starter motor is still a functioning starter motor. But doesnt tell you anything about the solenoid.

Also try jumping from the big battery cable terminal to the little wire, and see what solenoid does then. If the solenoid clicks and runs the starter motor, then know the solenoid is good (and is grounded) and then you know the problem is in the circuit leading up to the solenoid.

.................... Any ideas on how to repair these problems?........................

For the Starter.....
First step: Find where the problem is, where the voltage gets to, but doesnt go to the next.
The circuit for the stater solenoid is this: Ignition fuse, kill switch, starter button, clutch interlock switch (if still in circuit), to the solenoid. Solenoid gets its ground thru its mounting which is bolted to the battery box (on bigger models anyway) and the battery box needs to be grounded with a wire from the bikes wiring harness. You can not see if voltage is present with your eyes, you cant smell it with your nose, you cant feel it with your fingers, you need a volt meter or maybe a probe test light.
Second Step: Fix or repair or replace what ever it is you found with the first step.
Without a voltmeter (or test proble light) your only option it to fix or replace every item listed above until it works again.


For the Horn: The circuit is; power to the horns (yes, power to the horns all the time the key is on), then wires from other side of horns to the horn button, and the horn button connects to the ground when pushed.

 

[sorrentino100]

Thanks! I'll start going through your suggestions.

What voltmeter do you recommend for working on this bike? Can you suggest a make and model?

 

[Redman]

About any voltmeter you find at autoparts store or even homedepot will do, will need to have a DC scale. Probably find one for $20 or maybe less. The volt meter is mostly what you want, but the continuity (ohm, resistance) is usefull too. You will seldome have need for an amp (current) measurment.
I would avoid the one that have only 8-10 inch leads, get one with longer leads.
Are advantages to the digital meters and advantages to the analog meters. If you are looking at an analog meter, would be better if is a 20volt DC scale not just a 50 volt scale. ON the 50volt scale is kinda hard to see the difference between, say, 11 volts and 12.5 volts. But for now you are just looking for where you are completely loosing all the voltage.

Gain some experience with the meter before, just measure battery voltage or voltages at the fuse or something, before trying to use it for troubleshooting. Maybe try taking measurements on something that does work first, like maybe the headlight hi/low beam switch, just to get some expereince.

And will need to find the wire color code on the schematic, to know, say, which is the power coming into the kill swtich and which wire is the one going out to the next item.

For this problem of where-are-we-loosing-it, and if you have had no expereince with a voltmeter, maybe you might do better with a test light probe. You just want to know is-power-there OR is-power-not-there.

https://www.myautovaluestore.com/pe...cpaHB65n22FtsXyah-x2mJiDmXn_DmdRoCau0QAvD_BwE

 

[sorrentino100]

I managed to take apart the starter switch and cleaned the pimpled/pitted contacts. Reassembly took a few tries after the spring took a leap and had to fit one contact board into it's metal holder, top and bottom. It seems to be functioning properly as far as it's spring actuation, but still no starter movement. I'll do the same cleaning with the horn switch.

I did order a Mastech MS8268 multimeter from eBay for under $30. It also has a sound, light, temp and humidity readings. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MASTECH-MS...580907&hash=item5d78e81756:g:P3wAAOSwCypWoyQq

I'll move on to the next steps. I did find the clutch interlock switch from a YouTube video. I'll take that apart when I'm working on the horn switch and clean it up.

The kickstand switch is causing the red light by the gauges to light, even when the kickstand is up. I'll work on that and see if it can be serviced to operate correctly. The switch does not seem to be available new. Only a couple of used ones on eBay.

 

[exdirtbiker]

The kickstand switch is causing the red light by the gauges to light, even when the kickstand is up. .

Does Neutral light come on?

 

[Redman]

.....

I did order a Mastech MS8268 multimeter from eBay for under $30. It also has a sound, light, temp and humidity readings. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MASTECH-MS...580907&hash=item5d78e81756:g:P3wAAOSwCypWoyQq

......y.

Looks like that meter will do, has more than you need, but maybe only $10-12 more .... Temperature and humidity, hey, If I had that then I would know when to quit and get out of the garage.... har har har

See the VoltsAC (~) and Volts DC ( ----) selection. DOnt confuse those.
ANd the auto ranging can be confusing. When you first touch the proboe to a voltage you will see things jumping around then settle out at say 12.34. The meter problay has a trick were can push the 'range' button and keep it on that range so it doesnt go thru all that again when remove lead and put back somewhere else. Or before you start can push the 'range' button multiple times till the display read 00.00

When you get it, practic measuring voltage on something you half know what it should be, like battery voltage. And before you use it to trouble shoot something that doesnt work, use it to check out something that does work, like your headlight or something.

.

............. I did find the clutch interlock switch ............

Ah... a thought here, if you didnt know you had a clutch swtich, and still thought there was not one aftger folks have mentioned it.... ah, have you been pulling in the clutch lever when trying to start the bike.....?
The interlock is the clutch swtich and cluitch swrtich only... no involvment of the netural swtich, no involment of the side stand swtcih..... just this clutch swtich in the starter button - starter solenoid circuit.

If you take that clutch swtich apart, it is another thing that has springs and little contacts that can fly apart. Before taking complelty apart, try loosing the screws and sliding the thing forward and back as something of an adjustment.
Expereince I have had with some of mine is that the contacts get worn and did not always make contact, but if wiggled the lever while also holding the lever in then it would go, would then know was time to adjust it and would be good for a long time, then need adjhustment again untill out of adjustment. CAn also grease it so it doesnt wear as much. Might be worn complely to where is not adjustment left, and is time to replace it (some folks say to bypass it, which is real easy to disconnect the connectors from bike wiringf harnerss and plug the two wires in the harness together).

............

The kickstand switch is causing the red light by the gauges to light, even when the kickstand is up. I'll work on that and see if it can be serviced to operate correctly. The switch does not seem to be available new. Only a couple of used ones on eBay.

The oil pressure sensor should light the red oil light AND the red sidestand light, when oil pressure is low. So, when engine is not running the oil light and the sidestand light will both be on (regardless of the sidestand position). I quess this was done so would get some light if low oil pressure even if the oil light was burnt out.
If you want to check the sidestand switch/light, with the engine not running, you can pull the connector off the oil pressure sensor.

And again, let me say, the sidestand swtich only lights a light, it does not have any function relative to the starter or the ignition.

 

[Redman]

Not directly related to you question/sitiation... But:

On these late 70s and 80s GSes the only interlock is this: The Clutch lever switch is in the StarterButton-StarterSolenoid circuit. THe clutch lever swtich will keep the starter button from operating the starter solenoid. That is all. There aint no more.

The netural swrtich operates the light, and serves no other function. Does not effect the starter solenoid, does not effect the ignition.
The sidestand swtcih lights a light and seres no other function. Does not effect the starter solenoid, does not effect the ignition.

Is not untill into the 90s that started to get functions/features/interlocks where could start the bike, then when put in gear if sidestand down that would kill the engine.
Or if sidestand down while in gear, could run the starter but it not start because the ignition is cutt out. Muzzle Fruzzle Frizzle Rats --- that one catches me on the BMW again and again.

 

[sorrentino100]

I did take apart the clutch interlock switch. It was facing down when I disassembled it. Yes, there is a spring and contact that slides and a "board" with more contacts. I cleaned everything up, dropped the spring (as usual), found it and removed the horn, signal, choke housing so that I could rotate the interlock switch for reassembly. It's back together again correctly, as far as I can tell.

Still no action when the starter button is pressed. This with the clutch lever engaged.

 

[Redman]

...................
Still no action when the starter button is pressed. This with the clutch lever engaged.

Good to hear of some progress.
I think you can see how trying to troubleshoot an electrical problem with your eyeballs is not producing much results.
Using a volt meter at some place, say at the clutch swtich, you could determine if
1) is all okay up to that point and problem is then toward the solenoid end of the circuit.
or
2) Is bad soemwhere before here, so problem is then toward the starter button end of the circuit.
So with a meter, you can check things out and divide all the possible causes along the circuit into half, and then start checking in the direction of the problem.
Without a meter, you are just randomly poking around at any and every thing.

I think I recall you saying you got a meter on order.... you get it yet?

When you say "tri-state", I dont know where that is, but I suppose someone nearby to you would know.

.

 

[Redman]

Did you find the connectors for the clutch switch, where they plug into the bike harness?? THis might be in the headlight shell.
As a test, you could disconnect those connectors and plug the two connectors of the bike harness into each other, therby bypassing the clutch switch, and see if that makes a difference.

 

[sorrentino100]

Just received the meter today. I'll test from the beginning of the circuit as described in an earlier post.

 

[sorrentino100]

This is the part of the clutch interlock switch.

 

[sorrentino100]

Kill Switch.