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Busted bolt GS750

  • Thread starter Thread starter Scudder
  • Start date Start date
S

Scudder

Guest
Was taken the header pipes off to get at the oil pan because of a leak. One of the bolts broke off when I was removing them in the process of detaching the pipes. Maybe 2mm is sticking out. I tried to get hold of it, but no go. Any adivse from experience would be appreciated. Good news is it's only one Bolt.

Scudder
 
experienced the same thing..I took a nut and put it over what was left sticking out. Welded thru the nut into the bolt. Be sure to let it air cool so the weld doesnt crack from hitting it with water or whatever. Spray the crap out of it a few times with some PB Blaster and very easily try to back it out.May have to go in and out a few times to work it loose..good luck
 
just a post script..This can easily be avoided by spraying the header bolts BEFORE even trying to remove them..Gotta remember they take a lot of road splash, are constantly heated then cooled and are always rusted.. Lesson learned by myself the same way hundreds learn each day LOL..Oh and after you get the factory ones out, spend a few bucks and put in stainless steel..available at any mom and pops hardware.
 
As was said, any bit of bolt still sticking out, welded nut is the way to go. It gets pretty ugly after that. Been there
 
Replace the bolts with studs, the nut should be easier to get off the stud than to get the bolt out of the head. Plus if the nut doesn't come off, there is still the chance the stud will screw out of the head, like the Mfg. thinks the bolt will. When installing, anti-sieze won't hurt a thing. Just my opinion
 
chuck hahn said:
UGLY is an understatement in many cases !!! heart drops right to your feet...
Click to expand...

I had to replace an entire head over this issue. When broken off down inside the head, hard to get a good punch in the center to drill a pilot for an easy-out. I wound up breaking off an easy-out down inside of one, when I finally got that out, drilled slighty too deep prepping for the insert and broke through into an oil passasge so it weeped oil from around that bolt. This was the original reason for the 1100GK head you now see in my Sig.
 
Im going to second the PB blaster soaking. You have to let it soak for a couple of DAYS in advance. Taking time to prepare now will save you alot of time and frustration later. You should invest in a set of Easy Outs, or left handed drill bits.
Punch a hole in the center of the bolt,
Drill a hole in whats remaining of the bolt about 1/4 of an inch deep,
Chuck up your easy out or left handed drill bit and SLOWLY try to screw her out of there.
Seems like a little bit of a process and finesse, but it's worth it.

Kev
 
coolksprt said:
Im going to second the PB blaster soaking. You have to let it soak for a couple of DAYS in advance. Taking time to prepare now will save you alot of time and frustration later. You should invest in a set of Easy Outs, or left handed drill bits.
Punch a hole in the center of the bolt,
Drill a hole in whats remaining of the bolt about 1/4 of an inch deep,
Chuck up your easy out or left handed drill bit and SLOWLY try to screw her out of there.
Seems like a little bit of a process and finesse, but it's worth it.

Kev
Click to expand...


How bout PBB for weeks at a time? Thats what I did several times a week and even had to place a shop towl under the bike to catch the mess it made I used so much.
Still broke one of em off. Thank god it was only one. I've not tackled the task of removing it yet but you can bet I wont use an extractor(easy out).
Break that thing off and you're screwed.
Im not sure what Im gonna do yet. The head may need removed do to low compression on one of the cylinders so I'll prolly make my move then. In the mean time I;m not gonna touch it (them, one in the intake as well)
 
"Break that thing off and you're screwed."

Yep, even many shops won't be able to drill out that hardened steel.
Been there, done that.
 
Sorry to hear of you had to replace the head.

Broken exhaust studs are common. If there is some sticking out the welded nut is the preferred method.

If it broken flush, try a center punch and a set of left handed drill bits, also known as reverse bits. The flutes are cut in reverse so the bit cuts while rotating to the left. The cutting action of the bit helps to grab the offending bolt while also drilling a hole that loosens the grip of the threads.:)
 
The original head on the G was a basket case. 2 exhaust bolts had already had inserts put in them, 2 more broken when I got it, 1 more broke as I was removing the header. It needed to be replaced, went with a better head anyway.
 
Bolt

Bolt

Thanks for all the advice. I pre-lubed it for about a week. All bolts came out easily except for the one. Haven't moved on it yet. I don't have a welder so the welding procedure seems unlikely. This bike has a lot of work that needs to be done (it sat in a barn for a long time), so I'll do that, soak the bolt, and figure my next step. Thanks.

Scudder
 
Bolt

Bolt

No familiar with inserts. What are they, and how would I go about doing it?

Scudder
 
inserts are hellicoils. used to RETHREAD a bolt hole. in any case the bolt needs to be out so that the insert can go in. First thing i would do is ask areound my buddies and see if i could locate a portable shop welder and see if someone can come over and weld on a nut. If not check out a few shops in your area and see if they would weld a nut on for you. Might have to trailer the bike up there but you gotta do what ya gotta do. even if a shop charged 20 or 30 bucks and it works your still hundreds ahead of the game...
 
Using one of the exhaust flanges trace a template and mark the holes. Transfer that to a decent thickness (1/2" - 3/4") of steel. Carefully drill the holes on location thru the steel the same size as the tap drill for the bolts. (if you give me the bolt size I can give you the correct drill size.) Now bolt the jig you just built to the head with the 1 remaining good bolt and carefully drill the broken bolt out using the hole in the jig to keep you aligned. You should then be able to clean out the threads and be good to go. May have to chase the threads with a tap.

To figure the correct size drill for a tap:
major diameter-1 thread pitch, example M8 x 1.25 would be 8-1.25 or 6.75mm drill. Works the same for standard sizes also. 3/8"-16 would be .375- (1/16) or .375-.0625 = .3125"
 
I did the same thing on my 1100.I removed the head and took it to my local machine shop.They drilled it out and put in a helicoil.Worked great and it only cost me $60.00.
 
new bob said:
I did the same thing on my 1100.I removed the head and took it to my local machine shop.They drilled it out and put in a helicoil.Worked great and it only cost me $60.00.
Click to expand...



I had one broken off by the PO. He had drilled it out and so I let it soak with PBB and tried an extractor. Well I ended up with a broken F'n extractor so off came the head and over to a machine shop. It ended up costing me $80 there, plus gaskets and new oil seals (because you might as well while you're in there right?) and so now it is fine with a heli-coil. If that ever comes out i might look into having it welded and re drilled.


NEVER FORGET ANTI-SIEZE though! The copper based kind works great. You know it's copper if it looks like copper. It should also say too lol!
 
mighty13d said:
I had one broken off by the PO. He had drilled it out and so I let it soak with PBB and tried an extractor. Well I ended up with a broken F'n extractor so off came the head and over to a machine shop. It ended up costing me $80 there, plus gaskets and new oil seals (because you might as well while you're in there right?) and so now it is fine with a heli-coil. If that ever comes out i might look into having it welded and re drilled.


NEVER FORGET ANTI-SIEZE though! The copper based kind works great. You know it's copper if it looks like copper. It should also say too lol!
Click to expand...
Oh yea.I replaced all the gaskets too.The head gasket alone was $70.00.The whole deal cost about $200.00 I got everything from bike bandit.
 
Broken Extractor

Broken Extractor

Well, it's gotten worse. I drilled it out, and broke off the extractor. Machine shop, or new cylinder head are my only options now. So, do I have to remove the engine from the frame to take off the cylinder head? My shop manuel says I don't have to, but the clearance with the frame looks pretty tight as you lift the head over the long bolts. I"ve read through the manuel about how to remove the head. To me, it looks pretty tough, because I'm concerned I'll screw something up further. It seems that one problem usually opens up a new "can of worms". So I guess I'm looking at a couple hundred, and more experience.

Scudder
 
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