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Clutch lever replaced, but a problem...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Snickie
  • Start date Start date
S

Snickie

Guest
Right, the clutch lever is replaced, and working, but the clutch safety switch doesn't "kick" in, so to speak, when I tried to start it right after I got the lever on there, it turned over, I stop and go to keep turning it over (It sat for about a month with a broken clutch lever.) and it wouldn't turn over, period, lights wouldn't even dim like they would if I drained the battery. So I'm thinking the clutch safety switch, myself, any way to fix this and is there anything else it could be?

And I just want to say, the joy of Suzuki, there's Always something to fix, this bike is becoming the motorcycle version of my Samurai. :D
 
Snickie said:
Right, the clutch lever is replaced, and working, but the clutch safety switch doesn't "kick" in, so to speak, when I tried to start it right after I got the lever on there, it turned over, I stop and go to keep turning it over (It sat for about a month with a broken clutch lever.) and it wouldn't turn over, period, lights wouldn't even dim like they would if I drained the battery. So I'm thinking the clutch safety switch, myself, any way to fix this and is there anything else it could be?

And I just want to say, the joy of Suzuki, there's Always something to fix, this bike is becoming the motorcycle version of my Samurai. :D
Click to expand...
If you're new to bikes and want to keep the clutch safety switch. try loosening the screws and wiggling it into a sweet spot. Compare your broken lever to the replacement in this area, It might just be corroded from sitting; a new one will only cost about $10
 
You really don't need that safety switch though so I'd recommend just getting rid of it personally. Much easier to just pay attention to what gear you are in.
 
Yes..slightly loosen the 2 screws on the cap and slide the brown waffle board ( not the black cap) that the wires are soldered to around till when you pull in the lever the bike will crank. tighten the screws and retry to be sure the waffle board didnt move in the process,,,readjjust as needed.
 
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Steve..read on. After setting for a month he tried again and it wouldnt turn over...so of course the first thing to check would be the switch adjustment.then move on down to things like the starter selinoid, the switch connections inside the headlight bucket, etc etc. Of course assuming he has already checked all the fuses too.
 
Yeah, very confusing. The way I understood it, it sat for a month before he replaced the lever.

I got a problem with mine at the moment but it's the opposite of his. I put recessed levers on it and that little peg on that sliding block fit a little too tight, after 6 months it sheared off I think, but it broke on the "sweet spot" as you put it, now it'll turn over with the lever fully engaged, like the '78's do that didn't have that switch. I may just leave it that way.
 
Look at the waffle board. Youll see a round raised area at one end of it just past the 2 connector rails. That spot is supposed to raise the U shaped metal tab in the lever up off the rails when the lever is relaxed. That round area has to be toward the handlebars. also if that raised area is worn down too far it will not raised the tab off the rails resulting in a constantly closed switch..like the bike without the clutch switch.
 
chuck hahn said:
Look at the waffle board. Youll see a round raised area at one end of it just past the 2 connector rails. That spot is supposed to raise the U shaped metal tab in the lever up off the rails when the lever is relaxed. That round area has to be toward the handlebars. also if that raised area is worn down too far it will not raised the tab off the rails resulting in a constantly closed switch..like the bike without the clutch switch.
Click to expand...

If and when I decide to tackle that switch, I'm gonna make sure I have a new switch, as that little spring launches itself to places unknown. I've taken it apart twice in the past and the last time spent hours looking for it only to find it in the crack by the starter cover. What a PIA :lol:.
On one occiasion, my engine wouldn't turn over. I had just replaced the headlight shell and the wiring was packed too tightly that the bullet connector to one of those clutch safety switch leads pulled apart. What fun it was to push start the GS1000 to get it home.
 
chuck hahn said:
Put a baggie over the switch to catch the spring and tab as you remove the screws.
Click to expand...

I still think I'll need a new post as a minimum, but you can bet next time I tackle it I'll have the lever, mirror off, clutch cable disconnected and a large clear freezer storage bag over the grip, and clutch mount, taped up and sealed, then I will poke a hole in the bag with a small phillips and take it apart inside the baggie. I apologize for hijacking this thread. Sorry.
 
Thanks for all the advice, and to the one that assumed I checked everything, never assume with me, I love Suzuki for some reason, but I only fix one issue at a time, and the solenoid I'd assume is fine, since it'll start via basically hot-wiring straight to it, fuses I didn't think of, and if fuses are fine I'll unscrew it and adjust it, it probably IS just from having a new clutch lever and me being new to motorcycles and assuming everything fits into place like it does on a car.

And I wouldn't say it's a hijack, everybody needs a hand. :)

Edit: And just to verify, it DID sit for about a month before I replaced the lever, I got it started by using a separate battery and sending voltage basically straight to the starter via the solenoid, the solenoid is in a nice spot, and there's a convenient bolt in just the right spot that makes a good ground.
 
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I think the clutch safety switch (on any vehicle) is just an unnecessary encumbrance. They are disabled on my lawn tractors w/the exception of the newest one, both running bikes, my Jeep never had one, and it took me maybe two years before I disabled it on my (then new) '82 Chevy pickup truck. Have I ever tried to start it in gear? Sure. Did I cause any damage? Nope, sure didn't (my 6 year old nephew did though when I left him in the Jeep and he turned the key....my garage door got hurt).:eek:
 
Hm, how exactly do I disable the clutch safety switch on this bike? Took the cover off and evidently there's supposed to be a metal plate that's moved via the clutch lever, thereby either opening or closing the circuit on the wafer board. So ye, I want it gone, thoughts on how to do so?

On the subject of clutch safety switches overall, I like the idea of 'em myself, less chance of me hitting the car in front of me in a parking lot when I'm mad, of course give it a few times that you start something with it in gear and you'll ALWAYS push that clutch in before you start it. And it seems like it'll be that way with this bike, well, it'll be in neutral, at least. :)
 
Splice the two wires to the clutch lever switch together, preferably inside the headlight shell. Splicing effectively bypasses the switch, closing the starter circuit for those two wires anyway.
 
Got it, thank you very much! Found out taking the headlight out that this bike has been worked on before, all the wires have tape on 'em and are labeled. Mayhaps someone did a full teardown and rebuild at one point in time?
 
Or you can remove the switch completely and unplug it in the headlight bucket...then just plug the 2 wires in the headlight bucket together..thus keeping the circuit completed all the time.
 
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