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Getting er started again

  • Thread starter Thread starter shoeless_000
  • Start date Start date
Its a spark plug with a window that lets you see the colour of the burn in the cylinder. Yellow or orange you know you are rich, light blue or white, you're lean and bunsun burner blue and you're right on. Couple that with the o2 sensor reading and you can prolly tune that thing like a champ.
 
HOLY CHIT! That's genious. Alot better than trying to read a spark plug. BUT then again. If you can read a sparky good you can even see if the timing is one and plus you can tell how you're doing at Idle, mid throttle and WOT. BUT thats if you're good at reading it. I used to have a good web site on how to read all those things but I lost it when this stupid laptop crashed.
 
yeah but ideally when doing plug chop tests, you want to use a new set of plugs for every test...that can get annoying and expensive.
 
TRUE!

BTW sorry Shoeless for all the semi-hijacking. BUT if it counts for anything this is all info pretaining to getting a motor running right
 
Yeah sorry man but this for sure will help you in your endevours as far as tuning for an oddball filter and pipe!
 
for sure!! i saw your tank and liked that alot, i wanna see how this thing is coming along!!
 
Here are a few pics, she's certainly come a long way.

Here she is on the day I brought her home:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q128/shoeless_000/EPRO0001small.jpg

Here is the custom intake I fabbed up (a little redneckish but it works):

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q128/shoeless_000/EPRO0024.jpg

Here it is mounted:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q128/shoeless_000/EPRO0027.jpg

And here she is as of last week:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q128/shoeless_000/IMAG2262b.jpg

I'm seriously thinking about investing in a colortune, I've heard nothing but good things about them. Thanks for the advice guys, no worries on hijacking, it was all interesting regardless. Oh and just for kicks, here's the way I see her looking after some rim paint and new whitewalls:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q128/shoeless_000/IMAG2262bcopy2.jpg
 
Looking awesome. Shh don't say anything but I like the whitewalls :-D Also good idea on the intake. It shouldn't screw with the carbs that much. Well not as much as pods anyways
 
Thanks man, I'm just sick of seeing the same paint schemes and stuff out there so I decided to branch out a bit. Hey another thing I was wondering, I'm wanting to raise my back end about 3-4 inches. I'm fairly certain that my stock springs are 12". My problem is I don't know where to find a decently priced 15-16" spring/shock combo. any ideas?
 
15 or 16 inches is pretty long bro, the longest ive been able to find is 14.5 inchers. What if you lowered the front a bit and raised the back to a 13.5? Give you the same look you are looking for, plus ideally you want to keep the back as low as you can for handling and getting the rubber on the ground.
 
What does lowering the front end entail? I'm on a soldier's pay and I'm used to working on humvees so price and difficulty would be the deciding factor. Oh yeah by the way man, I went to high school in Wilmington, OH. Just down the road from you in Dayton.
 
Well lowering the front you could do one of two things...if you're using clipon handlebars, you can simply move the forks up in the tree. But if you arent you can pull the forks apart and cut some out of the spring to lower it a bit. Im not talking much, maybe an inch lower.
 
A couple of things to be aware of.....

Lowering the front will quicken the steering a little or a lot depending on the amount you drop it by, i'd say 20mm is the absolute max to keep a decent balance between a stable bike at speed & one that turns nicely

raising the rear has the same affect

raising the rear by the by 3 or 4" will screw up what handling you have especially if combined with dropping the front :cry: its way too much ! :shock:
 
I appreciate the advice guys. I think an inch off the springs might be in order. Is there anything special to consider as far as cutting them? Obviously I know to make them even and not to cut too much but is that it?
 
Thats what i was saying...dont raise it up in back, or maybe just an inch, and lower the front a little...id go with Tones idea as that seems pretty good....will give you the look you are after, and compromise in handling wont be so much.
 
Ironriot said:
YES YOU WANT ONE!!!!! Lol actually a wideband sensor is basically just an oxygen sensor and an LCD screen. The O2 sensor reads your exhaust gases and shows if you're running rich or lean by sending a voltage signal to the reader. It helps immensely when try to read whats going on with a set of carbs. Now you can get a really fancy one that'll have a full display and what not or you can get a simple one that reads the voltage that the O2 sensor sends out and go from there. Either way its as simple as duct taping the O2 sensor to the end of the pipes and adjust accordingly
Click to expand...


Sorry to burst your bubble but this method absolutly will not work. O2 sensors are designed to be screwed into a bung in one of the headpipes. If you examine any closed loop fuel injected bike on the market you will find the O2 sensor approx 5-8 inches from the exhaust port. If the end of your exhaust was that hot a ball of paper dangled behind it would catch fire instantly.:shock: Even the O2 sniffers on a dyno (Which dont require heat) must be poked as far up the exhaust as possible to avoid dilution from the atmosphere on negative pulses. Personaly I have seen noticable dilution with the sniffer 15 inches up the pipe. As noted, autos have their sensors in the tailpipe. The sensor is always located before or in the cat again due to temp requierments. If you want to use an O2 sensor to tune your bike you must weld a bung into one of your headpipes. Also the sensor does provide its own voltage once operating temp is reached (this may take up to 10 min.) alligator leads on your multi meter are handy for this.
 
BTW Shoeless congrats on that sweet cafe. Especialy dig the intake manifold.
 
Powell,

Well it won't work for my bike but it will work for shoeless. If you read his original post you'll see that he says that he's only running head pipes. Not the full exhaust. Besides personally if I were gonna do this I would weld in the bungs anyways. That way I could constantly be tuning and NOT taping
 
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