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OK here we go the ever but never answered the same what oil?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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what oil do i use i only got the bike and this was my first time out i wanna change it b/c i think its not "working correctly" b/c after awhile my clutch (must heat up) b/c it doesnt work it sticks im think somethign with the throw out bearing anyways i have no idea wht type of oil they used in the past but what do u recomend the manual says 10w-40 now i read an article on this forum and till this minute still quite confused but i rememebr saying not many bike makers refer to use this oil anymore some void warranty if used. now my second question if i do use 10w-40 is this an automotive oil?? or some special oil?
sorry for the lengthy post
 
ok thats all i needed to know aslong as one person does do you think oil would have any affect on the clutch "possibly" getting hot and maybe affecting the spring?
 
what oil do i use i only got the bike and this was my first time out i wanna change it b/c i think its not "working correctly" b/c after awhile my clutch (must heat up) b/c it doesnt work it sticks im think somethign with the throw out bearing anyways i have no idea wht type of oil they used in the past but what do u recomend the manual says 10w-40 now i read an article on this forum and till this minute still quite confused but i rememebr saying not many bike makers refer to use this oil anymore some void warranty if used.

Finally, a period!

I use petroleum motorcycle-specific 10W40, with good results. I get mine at Walmart, Quaker State brand, for about $2 a quart.

Nick
 
Just be sure to look at the service rating for the oil. Some of the newer oils have additives that could make the clutch slip.
 
Castrol 10w-40 or in hot climates 20w-50 is acceptable. :twisted:
 
sorry aboput the long post and periods arent my friends lol anyways so if i get castrol motor oil (for cars) 10w-40 that will be ok?

and does anybody think that the oul wouldnt be cool enough or maybe not lubing the clutch enough thats why its sticking???
 
what oil do i use i only got the bike and this was my first time out i wanna change it
Click to expand...

If you are worried about your oil, the most important thing to do is change it. Any brand of SG rated dino oil in 10W30, 10W40, 20W50 is fine. If you want to use synthetic oil (notably superior to dino oil in low temp flow ability and high temp protection), watch out for the oils labeled as "mileage increasing" as they have what are called "friction modifiers" in them that can cause clutch slipping issues with bike gearboxes. I use Mobil 1 red cap, 15W50 exclusively and have no complaints or issues with it at all. The Mobil 1 blue cap (5W30 and 10W40) have the friction modifiers and I use them in my truck but not the bikes.

Motorcycle specific oils are extra money for nothing, you are better off buying an automotive synthetic at $4.00/liter than a bike specific dino at $4.00/liter.

Mark
 
I would STRONGLY disagree about using a 10w-30 motor oil in these bikes. For one, it is too thin considering the gearbox in integral with the engine, and 2nd, it contains friction modifiers (identified by the energy- conserving 'starburst' symbol on the bottle) which are known for causing clutch-slip in wet-clutch applications. the other 2 choices, (the Castrol 10w-40 and 20w-50) are acceptable. :twisted:
 
Yes

Yes

Absolutely!! If it says "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the circle on the back or the container...don't stick that stuff in your motorcycle! :!:
 
well i changed my oil and my clutch still sticks so i guess im goin to have to goto the local shop and see if they can find out whast wrong with "giving me the broom"
any ideas? about the clutch it only sticks when hot when cool the clutch is fine... when cool it doesnt make any noise when hot it makes a "squeaking noise"
 
Put bike on kickstand (not centrestand, if equipped) remove the clutch cover, remove the 6 bolts holding the springs in, take each disk and each plate out laying them out in order of removal. check teh basket to see if it is loose or if 'parts' fall out that shouldn't. check teh discs and plates for warping, reassemble (do NOT overtorque the 6 spring bolts), lube and adjust teh clutch cable, and see if things improve. :twisted:
 
Yeah, unlike my XS650, the clutch of which can drag if I don't use Castrol Syntec full-synth, the GS motors will do fine on just about any reputable 10W-40 oil, dino or synth, just as long as it's not labeled "energy conserving". Some people like the Diesel oils which supposedly contain a bit more zinc and phosphorus. I'm using $1.49 a qt Exxon and the bike seems fine. Just change it every 1000 miles along with the filter and you're good to go.
 
Like pete says don't be afraid of the diesel 15-40 oils, I've used Valvoline semi-synthetic 10-40 and Rotella 15-40 and noticed no difference. Maybe if I drove when it was 30 degrees or less often I'd think more about synthetic but I don't think it really matters what you put in it if you change it often and stay somewhat close to the recommended weight
 
I've found something interesting. I was looking through the owners manual for my 83 GS850G and I came across the recommendation for oil. The manual says "Suzuki recommends the use of Suzuki performance 4 motor oil or an oil which is rated SE or SF under the API classification system. The viscosity rating should be SAE 10W-40. If an SAE 10W-40 is not available, select an alternate according to the chart below. This is a very high performance, SAE 10W-40 SF oil with special friction modifier added." So all the talk about the clutch slipping from the modifiers is moot at this point.......right??
 
So all the talk about the clutch slipping from the modifiers is moot at this point.......right??
Click to expand...

Nope. The SE/SF rated oils are not as good as the current SG rated oils and the friction modifiers we are talking about are 20 years newer than the ones your manual mentions. All oils have friction modifiers in them, along with a bunch of other things to help with life span, cleaning, anti-foaming, etc. Current synthetic oils with friction modifiers (the "energy conserving" ones) can cause all sorts of havoc with clutch plates. It's not a guarantee, but it is a well known problem and can be easily avoided by correct oil choice.

Mark
 
Right....I didn't take into account that time the manual was written...DOH
 
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