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sharpy
Guest
Yes i know lots of folks have done this but now you can see why they do. super easy. Just use the 87 GSXR1100 (4 inch) wheel and a GS500 sprocket carrier. For me im still going to use 630 chain and just a 150 tyre.
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thebrandonbeezy
Forum Mentor
Man, I'd love to get a set of those old gsxr 1100 split tri spokes
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sharpy
Guest
Look around classic bike racing forums/ links. Some one mite be changing from 18 to 17 inch wheels if the rules allow and selling off there wheels/forks
4 inch rim is perfect for a 150 for the best tire wrap and largest tread contact patch. You can also fit a 160 on there if you insist on bigger is better. 150 is the best fit, however. In a good quality Super grippy Tire, that should be all you need. Most modern sport bike tires are high-mileage compounds that only grip better due to a larger surface area. A 150 in a super sticky compound will have no compromise in grip over the 180 sport bike tires unless you are talking about hypersport racing compounds
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sharpy
Guest
Current ride has 4.25 spoke wheel running a 140 tyre. Perfect for what that does so a more "rounded" tyre be just as nice for a touch more lean angle. Oh and hey chuck, what site you using to get that pic that big, since photo bucket wont allow any more. Thanks
I had run 140/70's then 150/70's on a 3.50x18 rear rim, and actually got the most tread contact patch of all when I swapped a BT45V Battlax in a 130/80-18 onto the same 3.50MT18 rim! Lighter tire, too, so more free horsepower!
The 150/70-18 looked the most appropriate of all however, but not the best choice on a 3.5 on an old school GS or Z1/KZ, as you can't really use the whole tread as your stator cover, footpegs, or exhaust will scrape before you get to the edge of the chicken strip on your tires, unless all those parts are modified and higher clearance racing exhaust nicely tucked in...
150 was definitely a more rounded profile with slightly less contact patch area as a trade-off of greater lean angle capability (*greater lean angle capability without considering mid pipe, stator cover, or stock footpegs scraping first)
18" wheels, proper height forks, and 1" taller rear shocks will definitely help you get closer to this extreme of lean angle, however. 17" wheels and shorter modern fork swaps will hurt this lean angle issue.
The 150/70-18 looked the most appropriate of all however, but not the best choice on a 3.5 on an old school GS or Z1/KZ, as you can't really use the whole tread as your stator cover, footpegs, or exhaust will scrape before you get to the edge of the chicken strip on your tires, unless all those parts are modified and higher clearance racing exhaust nicely tucked in...
150 was definitely a more rounded profile with slightly less contact patch area as a trade-off of greater lean angle capability (*greater lean angle capability without considering mid pipe, stator cover, or stock footpegs scraping first)
18" wheels, proper height forks, and 1" taller rear shocks will definitely help you get closer to this extreme of lean angle, however. 17" wheels and shorter modern fork swaps will hurt this lean angle issue.
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thebrandonbeezy
Forum Mentor
While we're talking about wheel swaps, what swinger is preferred when going for a 5.5?
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sharpy
Guest
Dont they use bandit 1200 swing arms?
Pretty interesting Chuck. How do you measure contact patch? Anything else we can read?
What if you are using the 3.5 x 17 wheel? What tire gives the best contact patch? Is wider just for looks then?
I wish we could use a dual compound tire like the Michelin Pilot Road 2CT.
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Very nice analysis
thebrandonbeezy
Forum Mentor
140 or 150 cant remember
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sharpy
Guest
Thanks, tho i think i wore out a set of verniers. lol
thebrandonbeezy
Forum Mentor
Should look great, those rims are some of my favorite suzuki rims. With hondas 13+ cb1100 running the same demention rims, im sure we'll see the tire selection grow for thst size aswell.
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80GS850GBob
Guest
So many more options for the chain drive folks...sigh...{lol}
Can I assume that the swing arm pivot is "centered" on a GS frame? {given then that the center of that would be driveline center?...on a G model too}
Can I assume that the swing arm pivot is "centered" on a GS frame? {given then that the center of that would be driveline center?...on a G model too}
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sharpy
Guest
Finally got around to it. Back of rear sprocket is 2mm towards the centre with some spacers i had lying around. will make the sprocket carrier spacer 1mm longer (step out the sprocket) and make the LHS spacer 2mm shorter to step out the sprocket and move the wheel over 1 mm. And make it less tighter fit overall. All this should be nice for when i string line it. As you can see i dont rush these things 
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80GS850GBob
Guest
"No rush"....Hey, I'm floating the same boat, but for a G model.
If you still have the old cast wheel, you can remove the tire and use the rim center, between bead seats, as the needed drive center.
Thats what I'm doing....you know the factory had the wheel centered. I'm also measuring assembled width of the whole rear wheel, drive hub to clutch side end, so I have that reference for the new set up. I'll build and space to that spec.
As for you revised rear chain sprocket location....this would be a fine time to think about moving it even further out "if" you'd consider a wider tire/rim while your tinkering....
If you still have the old cast wheel, you can remove the tire and use the rim center, between bead seats, as the needed drive center.
Thats what I'm doing....you know the factory had the wheel centered. I'm also measuring assembled width of the whole rear wheel, drive hub to clutch side end, so I have that reference for the new set up. I'll build and space to that spec.
As for you revised rear chain sprocket location....this would be a fine time to think about moving it even further out "if" you'd consider a wider tire/rim while your tinkering....
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sharpy
Guest
Sorry no old rims here