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Opinions wanted on my still slipping clutch

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Guest

Guest
Last year I rebuilt the clutch on my '81 1100EX. It would slip under hard acceleration when the engine was cold, but once it warmed up it was fine. Finding neutral was never a problem either. For reference, here?s the thread I started last June:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=194247

As shown in that thread, I found two broken fibers that I replaced with two used ones I bought off a member here. All the fiber thicknesses measured at the high end of their service limit, but the steels were all warped past their limits (as checked on a pane of glass). I bought a complete set of new OEM steels and re-assembled the clutch using brand new OEM springs as well. For the record, I use Rotella dino oil.

The only thing I didn?t do was to use that piano wire ?clip? to hold the first steel plate onto the clutch hub. Several members here have done the same thing with no ill effects ? just mentioning this for reference.

A new clutch cable was fitted too, and I thought all would be wonderful.

However, I still have the same problem with it slipping under load when cold ? in addition, finding neutral can be a challenge too. I find myself constantly adjusting the clutch cable as the engine warms, as this greatly helps to maintain neutral-nirvana.

I have heard that the steels need to be roughed up before being used, but I did not do anything to the brand new steels I used - I simply installed them as is.

So the question is, should I have roughed up these steels first?

Thanks in advance for all opinions?

Mike
 
Most likely the 30 year old friction plates are petrified Mike. Sounds like time for some new ones. At some point in the life of the 1100 Suzuki thinned out the 1100 friction plates so they can fit one extra into the basket. I believe those ones sometimes cut into the basket and make grooves though. Hopefully someone more familiar with the 1100E will chime with the full story and steer you toward the proper parts.

BTW, you got chains for that beasty so you can ride it in the snow?
 
I had slippage borne of glazing on the fibre plates.
I used a sheet of glass and fine grit silicon carbide wet abrasive paper to clean them.

Wet the glass and place the wet paper on it.
In even oscillating circular motions clean both sides of the fibres by rubbing.
Cleanse the paper and fibres regularly with fresh water.

It is tedious but once the glaze breaks you will finish rapidly.
I did the same thing with the steels to remove the discolouration and rough en up a bit.

I am a cheap bastard but it worked.
 
Are you sure the wave washer is centered? I went back to the piano wire when I noticed that it could slip out of place.
Or
The basket is notched and that would explain the constant adjustment since the clutch pack may be getting hung up on those.
 
Nessism said:
Most likely the 30 year old friction plates are petrified Mike. Sounds like time for some new ones. At some point in the life of the 1100 Suzuki thinned out the 1100 friction plates so they can fit one extra into the basket. I believe those ones sometimes cut into the basket and make grooves though. Hopefully someone more familiar with the 1100E will chime with the full story and steer you toward the proper parts.

BTW, you got chains for that beasty so you can ride it in the snow?
Click to expand...

Hey Ed - yeah, I'm sure some minty news ones couldn't hurt. I've yet to open it back up again, still too cold out in the shed for me to hang out in. Just planning ahead for early Spring.

Jeep's tutorial on de-glazing those fibers is appreciated - I think I'm gonna do just that.

I did inspect the basket when I had it apart before and don't remember seeing any notches ground in, but I'll make sure to look hard again. Guess I'll add that piano wire too. Truth is I replaced it when I re-assembled the pack, but I snapped the end off during a botched wire install attempt. (The wire is brittle like a spring, and when I was yanking the little bent-end through the locking hole it snapped.)
 
i like the way the factory did it.
your steel/piano wire/inner hub should be ok...just look at it real close to make sure.
bead blast the steels would be nice and 9 oem fibers soaked in oil for a few hours before install.
i also recommend 1150 springs..just a little stronger but will make your clutch pack last the rest of the life of the bike.
 
oh,
just for the record i have all oem asbestos(NOS) 9- fibers/ 8-brand new steels and a set of 1150 springs in stock...hehe :)
 
Just so you know, I have removed EVERY piece of that wire on EVERY clutch hub that had one & NEVER had a problem because of it. Back in the days I road raced, all the drag bikes, & all the high HP street bikes, I have never needed the wire to be put back in. If you have a problem keeping the wave washer in place, like Bill noticed, a little bit of grease will hold it in place for assembly. Ray.
 
So I should add 1150 springs & clutch hub nut to my shopping list too?

When you talk bead blasting, you mean blast the spindle piece the plates stack up on as well as the 9 steel plates? I?m not familiar with bead blasting ? is there a recommended bead type or process?

Also, are the aftermarket fibers (EBC) just as god as the OEM ones? The stock fibers are a bit pricey.

I?m going to buy two piano wires too, in case I break one again ;).
 
rapidray said:
Just so you know, I have removed EVERY piece of that wire on EVERY clutch hub that had one & NEVER had a problem because of it. Back in the days I road raced, all the drag bikes, & all the high HP street bikes, I have never needed the wire to be put back in. If you have a problem keeping the wave washer in place, like Bill noticed, a little bit of grease will hold it in place for assembly. Ray.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think there's any issues based on the absence of that wire - is there a down side to using it?
 
Just know it is a pain in the A$$ to install the wire correctly! I wouldn't go to the trouble or expense. Just get 3 EBC heavy duty springs to go with 3 stock springs. Ray.
 
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