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Outboard Starter plates

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10433155_645760192180990_3368900790872782189_n.jpg
 
Interesting.
Halfway towards what I've been thinking of.
I'd like to remove the flywheel/rotor, fit a plate like that, and keep the starter in original location, so would need a starter idler shaft location drilling.
The idea being to fit an external pulley and poly-V belt to drive an external alternator.
 
tom203 said:
I see a honda nighthawk in your future- external alternator already there!
Click to expand...

Oh, hardly.
I see Honda managed to do their usual muppetry with their inability to design an internal chain drive.
 
Grimly said:
Interesting.
Halfway towards what I've been thinking of.
I'd like to remove the flywheel/rotor, fit a plate like that, and keep the starter in original location, so would need a starter idler shaft location drilling.
The idea being to fit an external pulley and poly-V belt to drive an external alternator.
Click to expand...

Anthony Corsette on this site makes what you speak of for the pro street bad boys.
uses a GSXR type alternator with a pulley.
 
Grimly said:
Thanks. What user name does he go by?
Click to expand...

i forget...
i have sold him a few stator covers for these outboard charging systems he makes.
if you surf the forum on dragbike dot com i'm sure you can find him.
g00gle GS pro street bike pics "shoot out bikes" and chances are you will see his belt drive system installed on most of them.
 
blowerbike said:
i forget...
i have sold him a few stator covers for these outboard charging systems he makes.
if you surf the forum on dragbike dot com i'm sure you can find him.
g00gle GS pro street bike pics "shoot out bikes" and chances are you will see his belt drive system installed on most of them.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for that. I'll have a look.
(edit)
Found him - Anthony Consorte...
http://www.dragbike.com/photogallerys/03rock_race1/248-4818_IMG.htm
That's quite a neat looking casing and would allow me to mount the alternator up and to the rear, I believe.
 
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He (Anthony Consorte) doesn't do 850 case sizes and isn't too sure of the longevity of the unit, either, being designed for bikes which will be short burst, run around a bit then likely stripped a bit - or at least not al that far from base, kind of thing.
I see his point - I'm looking for something that, while not fit and forget, should be capable of car-type levels of stability and bearing life.
 
Grimly said:
He (Anthony Consorte) doesn't do 850 case sizes and isn't too sure of the longevity of the unit, either, being designed for bikes which will be short burst, run around a bit then likely stripped a bit - or at least not al that far from base, kind of thing.
I see his point - I'm looking for something that, while not fit and forget, should be capable of car-type levels of stability and bearing life.
Click to expand...

i'm sure you can make something..maybe a right side forward mount belt driven off of the advance unit somehow.
i have front and rear mount mallory magnito's that run a small cogged belt.
seems doable with a little imagination.
 
blowerbike said:
Anthony Corsette on this site makes what you speak of for the pro street bad boys.
uses a GSXR type alternator with a pulley.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm missing the point of running an alternator on something that could be total loss. If not total loss why the big charging issues and added weight to go to an external alternator? Is it to remove the rotating mass from the crank by down sizing the pulley to the alternator?

Maybe the pulley is just designed to slip at high acceleration?
 
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in the pro street class i believe you must have a charging motorcycle with working lights and self starting ect..
getting several pounds off the end of the crank i would think add a little hp and maybe less stress on the crank itself.. anthony would be the one to answer this question correctly as i have never built or ran this class.
 
blowerbike said:
in the pro street class i believe you must have a charging motorcycle with working lights and self starting ect..
getting several pounds off the end of the crank i would think add a little hp and maybe less stress on the crank itself.. anthony would be the one to answer this question correctly as i have never built or ran this class.
Click to expand...

Ok makes sense; I also bet it starts to slip on high accell or perhaps there is a clutch to dis engage the alternator.
 
i believe it has a cog belt like my magnito's.
now maybe....there me be a switch to stop the charging from happening to let the alt. just free wheel and not rob any power during a pass.
then again i'm just guessing but i'm pretty sure it does not have a v belt.

been looking for pics the last few minutes...no go....grrrrr
 
blowerbike said:
i believe it has a cog belt like my magnito's.
now maybe....there me be a switch to stop the charging from happening to let the alt. just free wheel and not rob any power during a pass.
then again i'm just guessing but i'm pretty sure it does not have a v belt.

been looking for pics the last few minutes...no go....grrrrr
Click to expand...

Yea a slipping vbelt would be a screeching monster. A clutch would be better. It is not so much the electrical load which is a fractional hp it is the rotational inertia of trying to spin the crank with additional mass of an alternator. I'm guessing but it just seems that the alternator has as much moment of inertia unless it is on a clutch to dis engage during the run.

Maybe edumacated Guess but a streach never theless
 
kinda like a blower with an a/c clutch ish thingy to activate/deactivate...via mad max interceptor ford...lol
 
here we go..forgot about the tom wade jr. bike ridden by drag bike dot coms own scott valetti running out of S&K racing..
i snagged this from bargers photo's :)
here is the outboard alternator offered by Anthony.......

WTF...some wrong with attachments...page unavailable...hahahhah

gee wiz beave it finally worked:-s
 
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An interesting question about needing a charging alternator for drag classes...

If you want the mass off the crank without a belt drive, the endurance roadrace answer from the 80's was to mount an alternator outboard of the final drive sprocket and drive it using a socket on the sprocket nut...
Slower RPM, yes but still charged OK. Depends on the test procedure in your rulebook though as you'd have to put the bike on the stand and run it in gear to get a charge showing.
 
GregT said:
An interesting question about needing a charging alternator for drag classes...

If you want the mass off the crank without a belt drive, the endurance roadrace answer from the 80's was to mount an alternator outboard of the final drive sprocket and drive it using a socket on the sprocket nut...
Slower RPM, yes but still charged OK. Depends on the test procedure in your rulebook though as you'd have to put the bike on the stand and run it in gear to get a charge showing.
Click to expand...

I think all that is understood, from the pictures were just not seeing the pulley reduction required to achieve the reduced moment of inertia. The only alternative is stop the drive. Slipping or a clutch.
 
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