"Stuck" removing secondary drive unit - 1100G

[jonr]

Many of you may have seen my beat up secondary drive unit housing on my 1100G (click on leaky transmission seal in my signature). Well, a benevolent GSR member arranged to send me a used one so I thought I would pull the old one out and swap out just the housing (don't want to change gears/bearings/shim in order to avoid the gear lash issue).

I managed to get those four completely beat up bolts removed with little problem, but the housing is too tight to remove. I can rotate it if I tap it with a punch and hammer, but it's not sliding out any time soon. The OEM manual assumes that you are working with this only if you have split the cases (please god, no!), but the Clymer manual says to loosen up the case bolts around the secondary drive unit to relieve the "crush" pressure on the unit.

I'm really worried that if I loosen anything up, I'll break a seal and end up having to split the cases. Does anyone have any experience with this operation and if so, could you share some of your wisdom with me?

Even though I have the engine hoisted and jacked up, I have no way of getting it out of the bike (I'm not Arnold). Splitting the cases scares the crap out me and would also kill any chance of me making it to the Brown Co or E/SE rally with the 1100.

Thanks in advance-
Jon

[focus frenzy]

relax, step back take nice deep breath, hmmmmmm, hhhmmmmmm.

OK, now you are calmed down I have some bad news.







you don't have to split the cases, everything will be fine.

you will want to loosen the case screws/bolts all across the back and pretty much up the left side, you then spray carb cleaner along the case seam, this can make the gasket swell slightly making it slightly easer to get the secondary output cluster out.
it is a tight fit and takes some elbow grease to get that sucker out.

you will need to get the O-ring that seals the assembly suz PN# 09280-70005
and it is best to replace the nut that holds the assembly together PN# 09159-14010

[mcconnell]

On the 4 that I've removed, I just loosened the case bolts nearest the secondary drive unit and wiggled the unit out. Remember that since it it sealed with an o-ring between the case halves, as a last resort you can gently pry between the flange and the case with a large common screwdriver if you need to, just to get it moving.

[jonr]

Feeling better already.

Well, I think I'll try doing just a few bolts like McConnell mentions and if I don't gain any ground, I'll go with FF's method.

The more I think about it, it can't be ultra tight if I'm able to rotate with some taps of the hammer and punch. Truly a tap and not a whack or hit.

I think I'll spray the carb cleaner around the seam as an extra precaution.

Thanks so far!
jon

[jonr]

McConnell, your advice worked! I loosened up the bolts, rigged up a make-shift slide hammer and gently withdrew the housing a few pulls at a time. It's out, I'm swapping housings and off to the races!

Thanks to all!
Jon

[SqDancerLynn1]

You are changing both gears ?? DO NOT through the old parts away

[Planecrazy]

Lynn, I think Jon is just changing the "ragged" housing out for another in better condition (as well as taking care of the leaky seal condition)...

Regards,

[jonr]

Yes,

I'm keeping everything original except for the housing, oring and the new seal. The original gear/spline, bearings and shims are staying put.

I used my vernier caliper to measure the distance from the edge of the gear-side race to the back part of the lip of the housing and they were the same down to the hundredth. So, the shims should keep my gear lash the same.

-J

[jonr]

I thought I'd post some pics of the before and after for all those interested:

Beat up secondary housing:



Busted up upon exit:



New housing installed (I know I still have to knock down the edge of the nut!):



The ol' 1100 in the stirrups! (straps hanging off of I-beam in garage):



Thanks for everyone's help!

Jon

[Planecrazy]

Looks like great progress, Jon!

Regards,

[jonr]

Well, I wanted to get the propeller shaft out so I could clean the threads since they need locktite. I don't want a repeat of the first picture where 3 of the screws came out and tore everything up.

As you all know, getting the prop shaft out requires removing the swingarm and I asked McConnell, Leon and Lynn for some advice. The mission was successful. The swingarm is on its makeshift support (see pic) and I got the threads clean on the prop shaft flange by using a plumber's pipe cleaner (modified) and some brake parts cleaner per McConnell's suggestion. The threads are so clean, they are bright.

I had two small tears in the shaft boot, so I am mending the holes with some RTV. I will also inspect the swingarm bearings and re-grease the prop shaft spline. Hey Planecrazy, did you grease up the final drive splines when you swapped it out?

-J

[Planecrazy]

Hey Planecrazy, did you grease up the final drive splines when you swapped it out?

-J

I want to say "yes," but the truth is that there was a lot going on and I honestly don't remember ... so the best thing is to assume "NO" and pop it apart. It's a fairly quick and easy task, so not a big deal to add to your "list" of "to-do's."

Regards,

[bwringer]

The ol' 1100 in the stirrups! (straps hanging off of I-beam in garage):

Go Jon go!

I like your new valve cover -- looks like a great way to reduce weight for faster side-to-side transitions in the twisties.

The rear tire looks like an old Cheng Shin Marquis, one of the nastiest, squirreliest, ugliest, low-traction rim protectors ever created. I'm sure you'll be replacing that very shortly, so you'll be able to lube the rear splines then.

Can't wait to see the resurrected beast!

[jonr]

Brian,

Unfortunately, it is a cheng shing, BUT, the tread on it is practically brand new. The mud in the picture makes it look worn down.

I've heard mixed reviews about the cheng shings. Is this one as bad you say -- the kind of bad that is serious?

Thanks-
j

[bwringer]

First get the bike running, then you can figure out the tires!

But whenever the topic of tires comes up, I've noticed that there are always people with an almost violent hatred of Cheng Shin tires. Under closer examination, it turns out that the CS haters were victims of the older Marquis design, which really was a really terrible tire. You can still get them. There was also a CS tire called the "Barracuda", which was probably even worse.

The newer Cheng Shin HiMaxes are good tires, and an excellent value. I've untangled many a twisty on them in all kinds of weather. I went through three sets of them over two years, and got about 7,000 to 8,000 miles a set, which is pretty good considering the way I ride.

http://tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Cheng%20Shin/cheng_hi_max_sport.htm

For slightly more money than the HiMaxes, Dunlop 404s give better grip but less tread life (my 404s were totally trashed at about 3,500 miles. Of course, that included two GS rallies...). After the GS rallies last year, I got set up to change my own tires, and am now enjoying Dunlop 491s for about the same money I used to pay to have a set of CS HiMaxes mounted and balanced.

Anyway, as noted earlier, you have many other fish to fry than tires at the moment. Once you do get the big fella running, you can ride it and decide for yourself.