GS1100G rear wheel noise

[Redman]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxCTH_viilw

First I pryed apart brake pads, still same.
Then lifted brake caliper, still same.
Then took this vidio.

I have sus****ion, but what you think?

Thanks,
Dave

DOnt now if that is vulgarity filter, or spell check.
trying to spell sus-pish-ion.

[Nessism]

Dave,

Does it make the same noise when rolling in the forward direction?

[Steve]

Spell check, Dave, it's SUSPICION.

My suspicion is that your splines might be going out. Put the bike in gear and rock the wheel to see how far it might move. It's not a definitive test, as you probably have not done this before, to have a comparison point.

The only real way to check them is to remove the wheel and inspect the splines visually.

.

[bwringer]

EW! That is indeed a Bad Noise.

Important question: Does the bike go?

I'm going to assume that the noise is coming from the rear end and not up in the secondary gears in the engine.

It sounds a lot like the splines stripped out, OR one of the bearings in the rear end (not the wheel bearings -- those seem fine) is toast, and the pinion gear is skipping over the ring gear.

Peel back the rubber boot over the u-joint, and make sure there's no play in the secondary gear bearing and nothing else seems amiss in that area. See if the u-joint rotates along with the rear tire.

[Redman]

Ah, yah, bike is/was rideable (even with no charging system).

I noticed that didnt seem as easy to roll around in garage, and that rear wheel would not spin freely, so I pryed apart the brake pads and then wheel did spinn more freely (different story).
But during all this I also noticed the squeek.

Splines/hub (called joint assembly in parts catalog microfische) replaced in 2006 with a new one, and I know about the moly lube every time rear wheel is off.

And I know about the extra "lash" when the splines are heavly work. Didnt think to check that, but I will now.
And will see about when turn wheel foward.

Thanks for ideas guys.

I will see if sound coming more from shaft side, more from front or rear of shaft. Maybe remove the rear wheel and see what can be seen.

[ as I ask myself "why is it that I have old bikes?" ]

.

[Redman]

Have checked rear wheel lash.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8dduMfeRg0

Seems okay (not like it was 5 years ago anyway).

My suspision now is that maybe the rear hub (in wheel) is dry of the moly grease. Has been 3 years since rear wheel off for tire change.

(not what I want to do this weeknd.)

.

[rustybronco]

Dave, check the drive pins where they fit into the metal clad rubber bushings. number 2 in this drawing.



I suspect either they or the splines are dry and the source of the creaking.

[Redman]

Dave, check the drive pins where they fit into the metal clad rubber bushings. number 2 in this drawing.
...
...
I suspect either they or the splines are dry and the source of the creaking.

Okay, Thanks again.

I am familiar with those pins and rubber bushings from having replaced the hub (Splines, joint, #14) before.

.

[bwringer]

Hmmm... one other possibility: I know you have Done The Right Things for your spline.

I bet the bolts for the retaining plates for your spline have simply backed out.

Re-install them with blue Loctite.


Pop that rear wheel off pronto, and let's have a look!

[Steve]

My suspision now is that maybe the rear hub (in wheel) is dry of the moly grease. Has been 3 years since rear wheel off for tire change.

The only way it would be "dry" of moly grease is if you never put any on.

Moly 60 will actually stay there for a LONG time.

The recommendation is to wipe it off (to take off any crud) with it and re-apply some new stuff.

.

[Redman]

Hmmm... one other possibility: I know you have Done The Right Things for your spline.

I bet the bolts for the retaining plates for your spline have simply backed out.

Re-install them with blue Loctite.


Pop that rear wheel off pronto, and let's have a look!

THat is my plan; to inspect rear wheel and hub.

But my "pronto" this weeknd isnt too pronto.
Is hot in garage,
and... we had our 6 weekold grandson for the day yesterday,
and... son and wife stopped in (after picking up '08 Triumph 1050ABS)
and... our daughter is visiting this weekend (and we went to spectate her running triatalon).
May get to it this evening.

ANd before any "popping" of rear wheel there are some sidebags and mounting frames to be dealt with. GK, you know.

Yep, there is Honda Moly paste on the hub/splines. I dont recal if I put any on the pins/posts. Maybe those are what is creeking/growning. THe bolts had a locking plate with tabs bent over to secure bolts from turning.

.

[Redman]

The only way it would be "dry" of moly grease is if you never put any on.

Moly 60 will actually stay there for a LONG time.

The recommendation is to wipe it off (to take off any crud) with it and re-apply some new stuff.

.

I dont recall if I put any on the pins/posts.

.

[Zmike]

ANd before any "popping" of rear wheel there are some sidebags and mounting frames to be dealt with. GK, you know.

.

I'm able to get the rear wheel off my GK by placing a 2"x4" under the centerstand..gives me just enough extra hight to drop the wheel without removing the sidebags..

[bwringer]

I'm able to get the rear wheel off my GK by placing a 2"x4" under the centerstand..gives me just enough extra hight to drop the wheel without removing the sidebags..

Takes one hell of a grunt to get it up there, too... not recommended if you've ever had back problems.

I've accomplished something similar by positioning the rear contact patch at the very edge of a sidewalk (or some other discontinuity in the horizontal plane -- tires on a length of 2X10" or 2X12" works well). Put it on the centerstand, and the rear wheel will end up hanging nicely off the edge, making removal much easier.

[Redman]

I'm able to get the rear wheel off my GK by placing a 2"x4" under the centerstand..gives me just enough extra hight to drop the wheel without removing the sidebags..

Hum, I thought I had to remove side bags so could get the bag mounting bracket off the schock mount, so could get the top of the schocks off, so could lower rear axle to low enough to clear the muffler.

Then to get wheel out from under the fender (even after removing the Fender extension) have to compress the front suspension (I use a cable come-along for that).

All of which would be so much easier on a lift that has the tail end drop out. <<heavy sigh>>

Anyway, got that all done in a bit over an hour.