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Harness Installed TSCU MOD for LED Conversions

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    Harness Installed TSCU MOD for LED Conversions

    THIS MOD IS FOR ALL LATER Suzuki TSCU's that use the 5 wire right left hand switch hand 3 prong Flasher Connector with Tridon EP34 flasher .
    http://www.amazon.com/Tridon-EP34-Fl...WPQB5RHRXYGNGJ


    WARNING IF YOU ARE CONTEMPLATING CHANGING OVER TO LED's (with no BALLASTS) without swapping out your R/R to a SERIES you will add much more stress to your stator, hastening it's demise even faster than the path it is already on.

    With mathematical certainty:

    a MORE BURNED STATOR WILL RESULT FROM: LED's. AND. NO SIGNAL Ballast RESISTORS AND SHUNT R/R

    GET a SERIES R/R and start swapping out incandescent lights for LEDs


    READ HERE SOMEONE WITH FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE




    OK I have been recently looking at ways to retain my Turn Signal Cancel Unit (TSCU) function after I convert to LED signal lights and will have swapped out my OEM signal flasher for an LED signal flasher. The well understood problem is that the Turn cancel function wont work any more once you swap out the original OEM flasher. Something has to change to make the LED flasher work with the old TSCU.

    THIS MOD IS FOR ALL later Suzuki TSCU's that use the 5 wire right left hand switch hand 3 prong Flasher Connector with Tridon EP34 flasher .


    See Quote from Steve below, there are other flashers with different polarity. I'll have to check that out as they may be easier to configure:
    I was comparing the flasher terminal wiring diagrams on a few different flashers and went with the EP36, because it matched the plug wiring. When I tested the system (without your adapter), nothing worked. I used jumpers to reverse the polarity and it worked just fine. I will have to get an EP34 flasher, instead. You might want to make a mention with your instructions that a Tridon EP34 flasher will fit the stock socket and work, as long as you cut the line to the TSCU and install the adapter.




    Matchless (Andre) has done a lot of work on this and I'm sure it has saved me a lot of time not having to research as much on figuring out what the problem is. Andre has graciously posted those results and modifications here at the GSR(along with a lot of other write-ups). Others have helped as well (Thanks Steve and Rusty and others that have worked on this problem)

    Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.


    So I have considered all of the above and made some of my own measurements and think I might have come up with an alternative solution. You can decide if you think it is any better, I need to order some parts, but I have little doubt it will work, just a matter of hooking it up and testing I think .

    Conceptually here is what it is. It is a small device you mount right in your harness near the TSCU. It is basically inserted inline with the Black/Blue wire from the TSCU and also picks up the same ground located there as well. This makes your Harness compatible with the OEM TSCU and the EP34 3 prong LED flasher (shown above).
    I still need to test if you want to leave it in and run the OEM flasher; basically making your harness LED ready.




    Basically this is a little PC board with 3 or 4 components on it to accomplish the job but also protect itself from bad things. This is automotive grade stuff so it is at least -40 to +85 degC rated. It is small enough to be attached directly on your harness near the TSCU only requiring a bit of tape of heat shrink to hold it in place. Actually it could go anywhere between the TSCU and the 3 prong flasher plug as long as there is a convenient ground. It should not get hot to any extent and in fact once it is covered you can basically forget about it.

    I'm looking at providing these as follows:
    • $25.00 each with lifetime warranty (fix or replace**)
    • Paid through Paypal
    • Delivered in the US (I need to check on international shipping costs for small envelopes)


    ** Assuming the device is used as per the installation guide. So if it fails for some reason I want to see a picture of your install before you remove it.

    I would like to see if there is any interest before I purchase a bunch of parts nobody wants. If you want more than one email me at solidstatepowerbox@gmail.com and we can work out combined shipping.


    As an alternative, anybody could probably use a mechanical relay to do the same thing. Here is an example using a Standard Automotive relay to do the exact equivalent. The lower picture shown is a mini automotive relay.
    Attached Files
    27
    I don't need no stupid LEDs and much less a TSCU mod
    25.93%
    7
    I have been thinking about doing LEDs, and this sounds good.
    29.63%
    8
    I already converted to LEDs and used Matchless's mod.
    0.00%
    0
    Just what I have been looking for; where do I sign up?
    44.44%
    12
    Last edited by posplayr; 08-08-2015, 02:13 PM.

    #2
    What I want is a reliable OEM 6 and 4 pin style for the Skunks and Colleys. Not interested in LEDs myself. Just want the OEM system to work and be reliable.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      Jim, in my particular case, I would rather install a series regulator than install led's. The way I figure it, the regulator needs to be done first long before any reduction in loads takes place.

      Yes I do know that an upgrade to led's will allow one to have more power available for heated vests and such, but without protection for the stator taking place first, upgrading to led's would in my opinion be a rather foolhearted way of doing things.

      Now, with that said, using something like this combined with a replacement flasher would make for a nice upgrade when the stock flasher croak's like mine did. Just sell it in combination with a new electronic flasher so it can be used as a replacement and, if they choose, as a led flasher.
      Last edited by rustybronco; 02-23-2014, 09:41 PM.
      De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
        Jim, in my particular case, I would rather install a series regulator than install led's. We way I figure it, the regulator needs to be done first long before any reduction in loads takes place.

        Yes I do know that an upgrade to led's will allow one to have more power available for heated vests and such, but without protection for the stator taking place first, upgrading to led's would in my opinion be a rather foolhearted way of doing things.

        Now, with that said, using something like this combined with a replacement flasher would make for a nice upgrade when the stock flasher croak's like mine did. Just sell it in combination with a new electronic flasher so it can be used as a replacement and, if they choose, as a led flasher.
        I would say your HAVE to install a Series R/R in order to run LED's unless you plan to ballast them up as well. With LED's, NO ballasts and a Shunt R/R that R/R will torture the stator for every mill amp not consumed by the LED's

        I'm figuring a switch to LED reduces consumption by about 90% so that means the signal circuit which runs at 5 amps average and peaks to 9 will be 0.5 and 0.9 amps respectively. That will give plenty of available power for heated clothing.


        I'm not looking to redesign (or even provide) something that is commonly available all over ebay for $6.99. This is pretty much a GS specific mod for LED conversion retaining TSCU function, unless and until there might be other bikes with similar issues.

        Last edited by posplayr; 02-23-2014, 09:31 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Jim, what I'm trying to get across is make it a point to unequivocally state that this mod is to only be used to replace the stock flasher using incandescent bulbs or, led's with an upgraded R/R (or ballast resistors). That way you don't have someone saying the mod destroyed their stator. CYA at its finest.

          I do understand quite a few people would like to upgrade their lights to led's without ever fully understanding the consequences of their actions.
          Last edited by rustybronco; 02-23-2014, 09:42 PM.
          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
            Jim, what I'm trying to get across is make it a point to unequivocally state that this mod is to only be used to replace the stock flasher using incandescent bulbs or, led's with an upgraded R/R (or ballast resistors). That way you don't have someone saying the mod destroyed their stator. CYA at its finest.

            I do understand quite a few people would like to upgrade their lights to led's without ever fully understanding the consequences of their actions.
            Dale,
            I think i get your point, but to a certain extent it is making it more confusing.

            LED's.AND.NO Ballasts.AND. SHUNT R/R's=BURNED STATOR regardless of whether there is a TSCU either with or without a mod.

            The TSCU mod is not really related to the above. Of course

            LED's SIGNALS.AND. LED FLASHER .AND. TSCU LED Mod are likely to occur which is only one of the conditions involved in the overall burned stator condition.

            I will put up a warning though regardless, but not tie it to the TSCU modification for the reasons stated .

            Thanks for the comments.
            Jim






            really seperable from the
            Last edited by posplayr; 02-23-2014, 10:50 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Less power needed = more shunting.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                I didn't realize installing the LEDs could cause problems for my stator but I just now upgraded to a Polaris R/R so hopefully that will be okay; thank you for putting that out there.
                Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                1981 GS550T - My First
                1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Series R/R = no shunt.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
                    Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator? And where does the excess voltage go on a series RR?
                    Does the shunt type bleed the excess voltage back into the RR itself, and is that why they get so hot?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by MrFreeze60 View Post
                      I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
                      Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator?
                      See the electrical links on the second line of my signature


                      Also please vote.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by MrFreeze60 View Post
                        I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
                        Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator? And where does the excess voltage go on a series RR?
                        Does the shunt type bleed the excess voltage back into the RR itself, and is that why they get so hot?
                        It switches instead of shunting.
                        Shunts to the stator.
                        Last edited by chef1366; 02-24-2014, 12:08 AM.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by MrFreeze60 View Post
                          I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
                          Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator? And where does the excess voltage go on a series RR?
                          Does the shunt type bleed the excess voltage back into the RR itself, and is that why they get so hot?
                          The OEM TSCU is what controls the Turn Cancel in conjunction with the OEM Flasher relay.

                          The flasher relay is incompatible with the LED's (flashes too fast) and

                          the TSCU is incompatible with the new aftermarket Flashers.

                          This mod is to marry the OEM TSCU with the new LED Flashers (i.e. make them compatible and work together). If you don't need Turn Cancel you don't need it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Looks good to me. Will probably get one, at first, to verify it's what I want. If it works as I expect, will get three more.

                            .
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                            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                            Comment


                              #15
                              I read through your pages concerning the RR's and I will be going with the Series RR. My brother in law is a Polaris dealer, so I'm going to see if I can get a deal through him.
                              I didn't realize you could get them through a Polaris dealer. I'm always looking on E-Bay to see what's there. Nice to know there are other options.
                              Is there any appreciable difference between the MOSFET FH020AA as compared to the SH775 other than size and a few dollars difference in price?
                              Thanks for the write up.
                              Last edited by Guest; 02-24-2014, 01:09 AM.

                              Comment

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