Harness Installed TSCU MOD for LED Conversions

[posplayr]

I read through your pages concerning the RR's and I will be going with the Series RR. My brother in law is a Polaris dealer, so I'm going to see if I can get a deal through him.
I didn't realize you could get them through a Polaris dealer. I'm always looking on E-Bay to see what's there. Nice to know there are other options.
Is there any appreciable difference between the MOSFET FH020AA as compared to the SH775 other than size and a few dollars difference in price?
Thanks for the write up.

Yes the FH020AA is a MOSFET SHUNT R/R and will burn your stator to a chrisp.

[posplayr]

Looks good to me. Will probably get one, at first, to verify it's what I want. If it works as I expect, will get three more.

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Will be looking forward to your kicking the tires on one.

[Steve]

Will be looking forward to your kicking the tires on one.

Just let me know when the tires are ready to kick.

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[posplayr]

Just let me know when the tires are ready to kick.

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Quick, update. I got my LED flasher in and did side by tests of it and the original flasher. Finally got my head screwed around correctly and got the correct polarity and figured out what I had missed with Andre's mod. Anyway. I could cobble something together as a test, but will wait for some PCB's to be made for everybody else. I have several project going at the moment so I expect to send out for boards in 2-4 weeks. I will tag this on then.

I also finally got (after a little trial and error) a full complement of bargain bin LED lights from Amazon and in almost every case the LED's are very comparable if exceed the incandescent lights in the stock GS1100E housings. There are some coloration differences, but you almost cant tell the difference except my tail light on the license plate is a cooler bluish white.

I still need a replacement for my brake modulator and will be working on an HID modulator for the 55W DDM units I got. Single bulb with a H/L motorized select. Draws less than 5 amps warm so no more than H-4 unit I already have.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/Motorcycle-HID-Kits-Lighting

[posplayr]

road test tonight (bike night) it worked. Stock TSCU, LED flasher and all LED lamps and brake lamps.

[posplayr]

Bump, I made a couple of these. Mine is working fine but waiting on Steve to report back on kicking the tires.

[posplayr]

Bump....................

[Steve]

Bump, I made a couple of these. Mine is working fine but waiting on Steve to report back on kicking the tires.

Hey, Pos, sorry about that. I forgot this thread was here, and posted directly back to you.

OK, I have not had a chance to test it on the road, but I have tested it. Not by kicking the tires, but by spinning them (ok, just the front one).

Quick reminder how the system works: when the turn signals are activated, the TSCU monitors the speedometer. When it senses that the speed has been over 10 MPH for more than 10 seconds, it removes the signal that enables the stock flasher to do its thing. Replacing the stock flasher removes the ability of the TSCU to control it, but the different flasher is necessary to properly handle the minimal load of LED bulbs.

To test this without actually riding the bike, I raised the front wheel off the floor, turned the ignition key ON and turned the turn signal ON. I then used a 3" sanding disk in my electric drill to spin the tire. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it got up to about 25 MPH. About 10 seconds later, the signals turned OFF.
I repeated it several times, and on both sides (even though it shouldn't make any difference), it worked every time, just like stock.

Installation is easy, even if you might be intimidated by electrical work. Cut one of the three wires near the flasher plug (the directions tell you which one). Pos's adapter has three wires. Connect two of them to the ends of the wire you just cut (again, the directions tell you with one to connect where). Connect the third wire to a ground. The hardest part of the whole deal is going to the store to get the flasher (guess what, the directions tell you which one to get ).

If you are wanting to switch to LED signals AND keep your auto-cancel feature, THIS is the way to go.

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[posplayr]

I updated the first post to reflect the requirement for the EP 34.

[posplayr]

I have done quite a bit of experimentation with cheap LED lights and have found what is a pretty good and very cheap solution for anybody still looking to convert.

First a note about different LED colors, while it is apparently true that a light color that is matched to a lense color will produce more light (i.e. the light produced is not filtered by a different color lense), what I have found is for blinker, brake lights and tail lights the WHITE LED is the BRIGHTEST whether amber, yellow or Red lenses are used. Simple just stick to WHITE. The red brake light bulb is a bit deeper red than a white one in a red lense, but the difference is minor as well as perhaps the brightness but the white is brighter.

If you want to convert over to LED bulbs these are very cheap and work well and are available on AMAZON. They fit standard sockets (1156 and 1157). The only caution is that the 1157 bulb has the same power as the 1156 whereas on normal incandescent 1157’s have higher dual filament power. My Solution is to wire both the 1157 contacts in parallel so they both come on at once. Basically making them an 1156 in an 1157 socket.

Your brake light is 1157, 1 filament for tail lights the other for brake. You just wire both to Brakes and rely on the license plate bulb for the tail light.
Same goes for front signals if you have 1157’s there (i.e. running lights and blinkers). Just connect them both to the blinker and they will have a bright contrast between off and ON.

UPDATE 5/30/2015:

There seems to have been a lot of recent updates to the Ebay LED market. I have been using the 18-SMD of size 5050 and they are generally pretty bright But you can now step that up 3 more levels. The 30W cree units even have voltage convertors inside but they are a little more pricey at $8 per bulb.



These are for maximum light 30 watts. (30W/12V=2.5 amps!!!!!!)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-White-1156-BA15S-Genuine-Cree-30W-LED-Light-Backup-Tail-5007-7503-RV-Camper-/301165709733

These are 40 SMD 5050 LED's WOW.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301256820818?item=301256820818&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

There are now even brighter LED's available for cheap ($1.50 per 1156).

These are 27 SMDs of size 5050 (5mmx5mm) so figure that this light is 27/18 times as bright (150%) as the ones below. It should be about 550 lum and 0.450 amps

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201291799753

OBSOLETE: These are 18 SMDs of size 5050.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHQ9826/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BSG760/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are probably others but those with the 18 SMD LED's are seems to work best.

You will also have to buy a LED flasher.

The one for the TSCU mod is the EP34 mentioned on the first post to this thread.

http://www.amazon.com/Tridon-EP34-Flasher/dp/B00064LQKS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=192GTSWPQB5RHRXYGNGJ

No word on these units, It is a few months off before I build any more new PCBs

[posplayr]

Bump, I posted an implementation of the mod using a mechanical relay at the bottom of page one this thread.

[ShadowFocus603]

So the mechanical relay performs the same function as your little pcb mod? I like the idea that it's cheaper and available locally but I think your implementation is much more elegant and cleaner to install. I just got done doing relay mods to the horns and coils on my 850 and 1100 and whilst I grant they work well they are a bit of a pain to mount. You have to balance location with length of wiring you will have to run and hide etc.

Edit: Would the CF13 electronic flasher work with this mod as well? As I search online I see that a few places, such as Diode Dynamics for example, use ep34 and cf13 seemingly interchangeably. As seen here:

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/cf13-led-flasher-module

[posplayr]

So the mechanical relay performs the same function as your little pcb mod? I like the idea that it's cheaper and available locally but I think your implementation is much more elegant and cleaner to install. I just got done doing relay mods to the horns and coils on my 850 and 1100 and whilst I grant they work well they are a bit of a pain to mount. You have to balance location with length of wiring you will have to run and hide etc.

Edit: Would the CF13 electronic flasher work with this mod as well? As I search online I see that a few places, such as Diode Dynamics for example, use ep34 and cf13 seemingly interchangeably. As seen here:
http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/c...flasher-module

I changed the relay implementation to add pictures of mini relays that would work well with this application. Not so much switching big currents but for the TSCU sure. I'm looking to use one of these devices as an engine immobilizer ( lift the ignitor ground to stop engine).

You would have to play with that relay ourself, the labeling and conventions are confusing.

[ShadowFocus603]

Do you have a link to those mini relays? All I find is the larger units like you would use for the coils etc.

[posplayr]

Do you have a link to those mini relays? All I find is the larger units like you would use for the coils etc.

I scavenged the parts in the picture but they are basically like these.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/JSM1-12V-5/255-1240-ND/274764