Peer Review - New Carb Rebuild Tutorial

[Nessism]

Put this together in the interest of highlighting some of the finer details not captured in the other tutorial. Can't say it's better exactly, just different.

Please make recommendations on how to improve it, then I'll hand it off to basscliff for archives if you guys think it's useful.

File is big, hope it doesn't take too long to download...ray:

EDIT: New version (again)...almost done pending further comments http://www.mediafire.com/file/zx5unr1sxq0cvvx/Mikuni BS (CV) Carburetor Rebuild Tutorial-2.pdf

 

[Flyboy]

Nice work there Ed, you are a scholar and a gentleman, sir. :clap:

 

[afholderman]

Looking good, I'll list a few points that might be added:
- Give a depth to leave exposed when taping the drill bit off to remove the pilot screw cap.
-Yellow text is very hard to read on some slides (26, 29, 30, 33, 35, 38, 39, 44, 48, 50, 52, 55, 58, 60, 67)

Other than that this is a great update to the previous manual. Adding in the info about float heights and syncing really rounds out the manual.

 

[posplayr]

Ed,
I think this is a great tutorial, the whole visual presentation with minimum words is almost a pleasure to view .

A couple of things.

On the front page list some part numbers like BS32, BS34 and BS36, I did not know were were going to be talking about my carbs till I saw them .

Maybe be a quick pic of how/where to measure the throat for ID.

On Page 51, I remember reading to measure float height with the float sideways so that there was only minimal gravity effect to depress the spring. Nice detail in the liquid float hight measurements instructions.

On Page 65, please provide a warning for smallchildren and old people to leave the room before showing that picture; it was painful

I know this is a carb rebuild tutorial and it is great, maybe add a couple of pages at the end on different filter options air box with stock filter, K&N insert, top off, K&N pods and EMGO noname stay away from pods. Add the rule of thumb for jetting as a function of that and 4:1. No need for a complete jetting guide but just so newbies know to not and try and run the bike with NO filters on it. Maybe the DJ v.s Mikuni jet difference

add a link or insert the Factory pro CV turing guide.

maybe show where to drill the slide when doing a DJ Kit .

The yellow is good for dark pictures , but a little less pleasurable against a while background but perfectly acceptable. :clap:

Thanks for the contribution, a picture is worth a thousand words and alot easier on the brain.

Jim

 

[Nessism]

Looking good, I'll list a few points that might be added:
- Give a depth to leave exposed when taping the drill bit off to remove the pilot screw cap.
-Yellow text is very hard to read on some slides (26, 29, 30, 33, 35, 38, 39, 44, 48, 50, 52, 55, 58, 60, 67)

Other than that this is a great update to the previous manual. Adding in the info about float heights and syncing really rounds out the manual.

Okay thanks. I'll play around and try to find a better color and list the depth to drill.

I'm trying to keep the verbiage down to a minimum. Please let me know if any of the notes (or slides for that matter) are unnecessary or need clarification.

 

[spyug]

Excellent job Ed. Thanks for taking the time, that should make it easier for some of the reading challenged newbs to follow. The only criticsm I have is also the yellow lettering in a lot of the slides...very hard to read, keep it a darker colour please.

Cheers,
Spyug

 

[cableguy]

Nice write-up! Good plain english and thoughtful arrangement of photos. It was good to mention the importance of degreasing/cleaning, and for REALLY gunky racks take them to a self serve car wash with a bottle of citrus cleaner and they'll come clean.

 

[Dogma]

Very nice attention to detail. It think this should displace the current carb rebuild tutorial almost immediately.

A few comments:

1 The impact driver is shown, but there is no mention of it's use later.

4 This may cause confusion for noobs who don't realize they're looking at the carbs from the front of the bike, instead of from the rear. The text is describing the view opposite of what is shown.

5 Personally, I would prefer pictures illustrating how to use the sync. adjuster mechanisms to identify carb bodies, rather than marking the bodies.

30 A noob may not know what "pent. lube" is.

32 A comment about replacing hardened pilot jet plugs might be a good idea.

57 The snap ring pliers aren't shown on slide 1. A suggestion of where to get these would be nice, since I've never seen them in an ordinary auto parts store.

 

[Nessism]

Very nice attention to detail. It think this should displace the current carb rebuild tutorial almost immediately.

A few comments:

1 The impact driver is shown, but there is no mention of it's use later.

4 This may cause confusion for noobs who don't realize they're looking at the carbs from the front of the bike, instead of from the rear. The text is describing the view opposite of what is shown.

5 Personally, I would prefer pictures illustrating how to use the sync. adjuster mechanisms to identify carb bodies, rather than marking the bodies.

30 A noob may not know what "pent. lube" is.

32 A comment about replacing hardened pilot jet plugs might be a good idea.

57 The snap ring pliers aren't shown on slide 1. A suggestion of where to get these would be nice, since I've never seen them in an ordinary auto parts store.

Thanks for the feedback...

...a new tool photo is on the To Do list. I'll also update the slide regarding what to do if the screws get stuck (impact driver, pent lube, vice grips, etc).

I'll also add detail about performing a sync...and your other suggestions.

:clap::clap::clap:

 

[bccap]

As a noob who is planning to do this job over the winter I found your tutorial very clear. I have read Bikecliffs and my service manual several times in preparation. But the one thing that I would like to see, is tool sizes, so I can make 1 trip to the tool store.
what size circlip removers, if they have a numerical size or just an overall length.
same with needle nose pliers, screw drivers etc.

 

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I just finished downloading and took a very quick look through the pages. Looks very good and well done! I like, I like...

Maybe we need some tips for reinstalling the carbs back on the bike . Old intake boots are a terrible thing!

 

[cableguy]

As a noob who is planning to do this job over the winter I found your tutorial very clear. I have read Bikecliffs and my service manual several times in preparation. But the one thing that I would like to see, is tool sizes, so I can make 1 trip to the tool store.
what size circlip removers, if they have a numerical size or just an overall length.
same with needle nose pliers, screw drivers etc.

I think it should be mentioned that while it would be nice to spell out to the letter each piece one might need, people who want to get into a project like this should have at least some mechanical experience, and a decent set of tools. If you don't have what fits, you'll at least know what to look for. A noob who runs to the store with a list of tools specific for this job will likely feel in over their head, since most of the tools needed are pretty common, and he would have been using those for years already. I think most who try this for the first time (myself included) find it easier than it looks, when there is a good step by step to follow. But then again, the "specialty" tools were just ones I already had, customized for my project. Ground down screwdriver for mixture screw, etc.

 

[Matchless]

Ed,
Excellent bit of work done here! The photos are very descriptive and this is already more than good enough for publishing. :clap:
I have some comments if I may:

1. The background for the text makes it slightly hard to read, already mentioned by others.
2. A picture of the bench sync showing the measurement of the butterfly would be of help to first timers I think.
3. I usually add a tiny dab of anti-seize to the pilot screw threads, as they are vertically exposed to water and corrosion once the anti-fiddle discs have been removed.
4. A picture showing the orientation and position of the rubber boots at the engine (where they are marked L & R) and the airbox (the nub and the boot notch) may also help.
5. In many countries Berrymans or the Gunk stuff you show is not available. Some clarity and possibly an alternative mentioned would be nice.
6. You did not refer to probing blocked jets which is also required at times.
7. You may also consider reducing the picture quality to get the final document a bit smaller.
8. Some specifics on the tools, or just label them i.e "14mm spanner" in the picture etc. - also mentioned by others.
9. Maybe showing the replacement and sizes of the JIS Philips screws with S/S cap screws and sizes for those who want to buy or use those.
10. Maybe give the o-ring sizes and type required as well.

Again excellent work and i hope this helps.
Keep well.

 

[Nessism]

Thanks for all the great feedback guys. Please keep it coming.

I'll try to incorporate as much of these suggestions as possible but I'm not sure how far to go regarding expanding this to include other fuel system issues.

I've already drafted up changes to the last page to detail a few key points (such as the fact that the engine won't run without an airbox), but I don't want to get into jetting recommendations for people using a header/pods (although I will mention that the carbs will have to be rejetted).

I didn't provide a lot of bench sync details because I'm not a big believer in spending a lot of time on this. As long as the bench sync is in the ballpark (eyeball check is fine) then a proper vacuum sync can be performed after the engine is started. Maybe I should rethink this since so many people never vacuum sync so a detailed bench sync is better than nothing.

 

[Matchless]

Ed, just noticed something that I had to recheck in the manual. The picture of the float height adjustment in the manual actually shows the measurement to the center of the float bowl rim and the manual I looked at also did not specify measuring without the gasket to the top if the rim adjacent to that picture.
This could be very confusing to a first timer I think.
The picture may be confusing due to the lip not showing.

 

[Nessism]

Ed, just noticed something that I had to recheck in the manual. The picture of the float height adjustment in the manual actually shows the measurement to the center of the float bowl rim and the manual I looked at also did not specify measuring without the gasket to the top if the rim adjacent to that picture.
This could be very confusing to a first timer I think.
The picture may be confusing due to the lip not showing.

I agree with you Andre about the float measurement not being clear, particularly that factory photo I stole. I'll add some clarification about measuring to the gasket surface. I'm not sure what lip you are referring to though. Please explain further.

 

[Matchless]

I agree with you Andre about the float measurement not being clear, particularly that factory photo I stole. I'll add some clarification about measuring to the gasket surface. I'm not sure what lip you are referring to though. Please explain further.

Ed,
Edit: Just went out and checked my GS1000, which has an outer lip on the float gasket mating surface of the carb body. The measurement must not be done from the outer lip but from the mating service without the gasket, is what I think I wanted to say. That is what the picture in the manual is trying to show with the lower line in the center as seen from the outside.

I have just made a note to myself to not try to do things like this late at night!
Keep well.

 

[BassCliff]

Hey Ed!

Great job buddy! The pictures are outstanding as is the procedure. The captions give all the necessary information without being verbose. You've stayed within the scope of the tutorial, which is the proper procedure for cleaning the carbs. As far as listing all the part numbers and tools, some of those parts (like the idle mixture screw O-rings) don't have part numbers. That's why we get the right stuff form Robert Barr (http://cycleorings.com). I know trying to document everything is virtually impossible. Just look at the factory service manuals. As big as those are, they still don't cover everything to everyone's satisfaction.

I have a few suggestions. The file size is a little large. I've found that when creating the PDF you can set the jpeg compression to 30% or 40% and the pictures still look just fine and the file size will be much more download friendly.

You might want to mention in slide #24 that the fuel inlet "T" is between carbs #2 and #3, to stay consistent with the other fuel tubes you mentioned.

Yes, the caption contrast on many slides makes it difficult to read. Perhaps use a little darker highlight, especially on the white backgrounds, or a different font color. These are the slides in particular that I thought needed more contrast on the captions; 6, 26, 30, 33, 34, 35, 38, 39, 40, 44, 48, 50, 51, 52, 55, 57, 58, 59, 60, 62, 63, 67, and 68.

I really liked how you addressed the different choke assemblies between the earlier and later models. I also liked the float height adjustment procedures you documented. You touched on all the necessary related material without getting sidetracked. It is a very thorough document.

I recognized those little serving bowls in slide #41. My wife has a set in the cupboard and serves desserts in them. I should probably not use them to clean my carbs.

Thank you for all your hard work. I apologize if any of the above is redundant.


All the best to you and yours,

Cliff

 

[bccap]

Regarding your pdf size. I just opened it in in acrobat 9, chose the reduce document size option and saved it in My Documents. Got a 9.76 mb file and no apparent reduction in picture quality.

 

[scott]

Great information in there!

In addition to what's been said:

* maybe a note about inspecting the slide diaphragms in the light to look for holes / tears and a note about testing the slides for proper damping

* a note about replacing the pilot jet plugs, the fuel bowl gaskets, the fuel bowl drain gaskets, etc. (stuff not in the Robert Barr kit)

* Slide 57: I didn't know about dissassembling the slide needle. Does the note about "This step is not necessary unless your carbs run lean in the midrange" apply to Slide 57 as well? Is there any reason to dissassemble this if you're not trying to address that problem?

* Is there any reason to note your jet sizes? I didn't do it when I did my carbs but if it is useful, a note about that.