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Originally posted by Boriqua
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I didnt need the spacer. There were three thin shims in the back of the sprocket. They probably equaled less than 1/3 the thickness of the spacer. I know the spacer was to go on front but it didnt need it. I threw a caliper on both the new 530 sprocket and the old 630 and they were the same thickness. Everything was the same in the rear and front except for sprocket diameter and the nut tightened up just fine.
The tool .. ugh ... It broke the chain just fine. I ground the head of the link to be cut with a dremel and course sanding wheel and the tool was able to push the pins out just fine except after 2 pins the push rod was noticeably bent. I had ground the pins flush to the face plate.
The trouble was with re-installation of the new master link. There is an flat anvil with a groove that goes across the back of the link and a push plate with two holes that in theory go over the pins at the front. Except on mine the holes that were in the front push plate didnt line up with the pins in my master link. I kept trying to get the master link front plate to seat and it wouldnt budge. Which of course led me to bend the cheap steel handle used to press. Then I realized it was never going to move because the holes were to far apart.
I resorted to using the tool with a single anvil but using a nut to fit over the individual pins at the front and went back and forth between the pins to make sure I sat the plate evenly.
Then after all that I checked the existing links with a caliper and made sure I had pressed my new master plate to the same depth.
Now it was time to flair ... Bwhahahahah .. I break out the "rivet" attachment which is simply a rounded shaft and went to flair the head of the pin. I measured the thickness of the pin so I would know exactly how much flair I was adding. I got a couple of turns on the tool and figured let me check because I dont want to much flair and I took my caliper to the pin head and no change ... Hmmmmm .. so I go at it again. Take it off and nothing. So I look at the "rivet" shaft and the tool is so soft a steel that it had pressed into the cavity of the pin but didnt flair anything. Basically it made a nifty deep circle with shoulders of the rounded head of the tool. The pin had made an extrusion out of the "rivet" tool. The more I turned the more pronounced the shoulders became as the tool embedded itself in the head. I then tried to create more of a taper on the tool and tried again .. same thing .. it just dug into the pin. The face of that "rivet" tool was originally a dome and that extrusion you see was what went into the pin head cavity.
I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out what to do. I had already pressed my master link and didnt want to take it off and replace it with the clip link. Then I remembered that I had recently taken apart a reloading machine and kept the bearings. They were about 3/16 in and hardened. I managed to use the tool to push the bearing into the master link pins and used a crescent wrench to turn the handle as the cheap handle was bent and Wala ... instant flair to about .6mm
I have used chain tools on bicycles for years. This was just a sloppy tool and I had to resort to ice cream sticks as shims to make it work without needing three hands but I could have lived with that. The problem was the steel it was fabricated of. Its just not hard enough or robust enough for the task.
Edited to add
Took the bike out and its awesome.
The tool .. ugh ... It broke the chain just fine. I ground the head of the link to be cut with a dremel and course sanding wheel and the tool was able to push the pins out just fine except after 2 pins the push rod was noticeably bent. I had ground the pins flush to the face plate.
The trouble was with re-installation of the new master link. There is an flat anvil with a groove that goes across the back of the link and a push plate with two holes that in theory go over the pins at the front. Except on mine the holes that were in the front push plate didnt line up with the pins in my master link. I kept trying to get the master link front plate to seat and it wouldnt budge. Which of course led me to bend the cheap steel handle used to press. Then I realized it was never going to move because the holes were to far apart.
I resorted to using the tool with a single anvil but using a nut to fit over the individual pins at the front and went back and forth between the pins to make sure I sat the plate evenly.
Then after all that I checked the existing links with a caliper and made sure I had pressed my new master plate to the same depth.
Now it was time to flair ... Bwhahahahah .. I break out the "rivet" attachment which is simply a rounded shaft and went to flair the head of the pin. I measured the thickness of the pin so I would know exactly how much flair I was adding. I got a couple of turns on the tool and figured let me check because I dont want to much flair and I took my caliper to the pin head and no change ... Hmmmmm .. so I go at it again. Take it off and nothing. So I look at the "rivet" shaft and the tool is so soft a steel that it had pressed into the cavity of the pin but didnt flair anything. Basically it made a nifty deep circle with shoulders of the rounded head of the tool. The pin had made an extrusion out of the "rivet" tool. The more I turned the more pronounced the shoulders became as the tool embedded itself in the head. I then tried to create more of a taper on the tool and tried again .. same thing .. it just dug into the pin. The face of that "rivet" tool was originally a dome and that extrusion you see was what went into the pin head cavity.
I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out what to do. I had already pressed my master link and didnt want to take it off and replace it with the clip link. Then I remembered that I had recently taken apart a reloading machine and kept the bearings. They were about 3/16 in and hardened. I managed to use the tool to push the bearing into the master link pins and used a crescent wrench to turn the handle as the cheap handle was bent and Wala ... instant flair to about .6mm
I have used chain tools on bicycles for years. This was just a sloppy tool and I had to resort to ice cream sticks as shims to make it work without needing three hands but I could have lived with that. The problem was the steel it was fabricated of. Its just not hard enough or robust enough for the task.
Edited to add
Took the bike out and its awesome.
1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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