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    #46
    Sep, 6th- sep 7th. Bock Bock


    First I like to thank Ronald Schulten and Sarah Olson for their generous donations.
    If you go to northern Alaska, you have to visit Chicken. It is laid back, fun and in the middle of nowhere. With the population of only 27, chicken was settled by gold miners in the late 1800s and in 1902 the local post office was established requiring a community name. Due to the prevalence of ptarmigan in the area that name was suggested as the official name for the new community. However, the spelling could not be agreed on and Chicken was used to avoid embarrassment. I was pumping gas when I saw a Cessna 150 pulled in next to me and started filling up. The highway is used as a runway for aircrafts also. You don’t see that in New York City.
    From chicken I rode southwest towards Tok to spend the night. Gib told me about a motorcycle campground named The Eagle Claw in Tok and I wanted to check it out, also I wanted to check my voicemails after 2 weeks. I got to the campground and saw a sign that said “Pick a spot, we will be around later”.
    This campground is a marvelous place. Clean as it can get with teepees, cabins and tent sites. There’s a steam room, an unbelievably clean outhouse, dish station, ready cut firewood and real flowers on the table. There was also a stove and a pot to warm up water for cleaning dishes at the station. I was the only person in the whole area and no one came around, so I made a good fire and put Brian’s moose steaks on the coals. Dinner of moose and mashed potato and hot chocolate for dessert caped off the night. I packed up in the morning and turned the switch to on, pulled the clutch in and heard a snap.
    Lots of people made fun of me for taking spare parts with me but dammit I was right. In the middle of nowhere, I had a brand new clutch cable sitting in my saddle bag and the tools to pull off the job. I got to work and unloaded everything again since I had to remove my seat to take the tank off. The weather was perfect and I was amused that my preparation paid off. The new cable was not an exact fit but I made it fit anyway.
    I loaded everything back up and stopped at the cabin to pay my camping fees. I knocked on the door and waited for a while but no one was home and there was no drop box anywhere. I remembered seeing an ad for the place in the gas station that I filled up the night before so I went back to the station and got the number and call the owner. She was a very nice lady and even told me to not worry about the camping fees but I went back anyway and left the money in her car. If ever in Tok, don’t miss this place.
    Crossing back into Canada was a breeze and the Alaska Highway was in its best shape. I stopped in Beaver Creek for a sandwich and met two guys on BMW’s. Stephane vachon is a French Canadian who’s been living in Panama for past 15 years and Oliver Fecht is a German teacher from south of Munich. They both met at the same place and I walked in and sat next to them at Buckshot Betty’s. I think it was the buckshot Betty herself who was serving since she wasn’t very nice but the food was great.
    Oliver went looking for a campground, Stephane and I went to find a hotel room for him so I could use the internet and then I was going out of town to pitch my tent somewhere in the bush. The single bedroom was $90 but the double bed was $69 so Stephane invited me to stay. Stephane is riding a GS1200 BMW which he bought in Florida and has been touring Canada and Alaska for a while now. He was heading back to Whitehorse so once again I found a cool travel mate. After answering emails and updating the website, we both crashed and before I knew it the sun came up. It was -2C outside with a good frost covering everything. The morning started cold and stayed cold well into the afternoon. We hooked up with Oliver at Betty’s and road out south all together changing lead every now and then. I wore everything I owned and had to bust out my ski gloves since my fingers where freezing but it was a beautiful ride.
    At the Haines junction, we said our goodbyes to Oliver as he rode south for Skagway and we went towards Whitehorse. We are staying at a hotel in Whitehorse (courtesy of Mr. Vachon) as I’m writing these and will go our separate ways tomorrow. Stephane will go to Skagway and take a ferry south, and I will head for Prince George in British Columbia. Stay tuned…

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      #47

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        #48
        Who laughed at you for packing spares? Granted, it's still on my to-do list...
        Dogma
        --
        O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

        Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

        --
        '80 GS850 GLT
        '80 GS1000 GT
        '01 ZRX1200R

        How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

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          #49
          Sep, 09th. Teslin Lake, Yukon Territories

          When I woke up, Stephane was already gone, so I packed up and got on the way. I talked to Gib this morning and he is meeting me at Watson Lake on Friday. From Watson Lake, we are planning to travel together all the way to Oregon, Fundraising on street corners all the way.
          I covered the 170km section of the Alaska Highway to Teslin Lake and stopped at the Yukon Motel, in Teslin. Teslin Lake is one the biggest lakes in Yukon territories and can be seen from miles driving on the Alaska Highway. In fact, it seemed so big that I thought it would never end. It might have had something with the drizzling cold rain that was hitting my face but it sure looked like the Pacific Ocean.
          At the Yukon Motel, I talked to Juanita Kremer, the owner of the lodge and she generously sponsored my accommodation for the night. The Yukon motel consists of a gas station, large RV Park, restaurant, several cabins and an amazing wildlife museum. It is a lake front property with a beautiful view of the Teslin Lake. The wildlife museum is a one of a kind, stocked with most creatures of the north in a magnificent display setting. I am just happy to be out of the cold for the night and I’m heading to Watson Lake tomorrow to meet up with Gib.
          Tonight I received an email from a guy in Guatemala named Oscar stating: “congratulation for your travel is very interesant please visit this tread this open in honor of yor travel”.
          I checked out the site and emailed him back in Spanish saying thank you for his efforts and so on. He wrote me back: “Gracias a dios hablas español por que yo no hablo casi nada de ingles”.
          After a few emails I got to understand the depth of the efforts these guys are putting into collecting food for poor people in Guatemala. These guys are not waiting for a foreign assistance as they took the matter in their own hands to feed their people. I salute their determination and fortitude. Although they are not rich by any means, they are playing their part. Please visit this link to see their efforts: (you can use the Google translator if your Spanish is rusty like mine)
          http://www.velocidadmaxima.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192649
          Guatemala is among the 10 poorest countries in Latin America and according to World Bank; more than 33% of the population is living in poverty. I will be visiting Guatemala in 3 months or so but in a mean time, I’m calling out right here and now to teachers, doctors, farmers, stock growers, … to answer my call. I can arrange for your accommodation and tools so you could teach and practice even for a short period. I’m only one man and can do just so much.
          They need your expertise and resources; they are a proud and willing people who just need a helping hand. Please contact me if you are willing to help however you can, I need volunteers for many different tasks and projects. Let’s be united, let’s feed a piece of bread to a hungry child. I’m begging you… please make a donation, even if not here, please go to donation page on my website and support an organization of your choice.
          www.motorcyclememoir.com

          Last edited by Guest; 09-10-2009, 04:25 AM.

          Comment


            #50

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              #51
              I'd be honored to host a pitstop for you, if your travels through California include San Jose. Replacement parts? Plan in advance, and I can order them up for you. Let me know if I can help in any way.

              I have subscribed, and will follow each post like the next chapter of a Clive Cussler adventure!

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                #52
                I am on the west side of phoenix if your route takes you this way... only for about 3 more weeks though. let me know if you need a roof or garage. I also work at a motorcycle shop and have access to new and used suzuki parts.

                Nate

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                  #53
                  Thank you guys. it feels so great to see that i have people i can rely on. everytime i get a comment, it makes writing much enjoyable.
                  My route is going through WA, OR, CA, AZ and to mexico. i'm free as a bird and beside lectures and slideshow days, i can be anywhere, anytime.
                  If you are on the awy, let me know, i can always stop for a beer or two.

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                    #54
                    Updated again, Sep 9th to 15th. Cassiar Highway.www.motorcyclememoir.com

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Their are quite a few of us in the Los Angeles area if you need anything

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                        #56
                        Updated again, Sep 17th. Vancouver.www.motorcyclememoir.com

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                          #57
                          Sep, 18th – Sep, 22nd Vancouver, CA

                          The Hwy 99 was a long and twisty hell. With a leaking bike, I really didn’t enjoy it one bit as I my riding pants got soaked and construction road blocks at every bend made it a 5 hour ride. Oil kept dripping on the exhaust and every time I stopped; a cloud of smoke encircled me which made breathing difficult.
                          I got to Vancouver in the rush hour and found my way towards Sarah’s apartment. Sarah was my couch surfing host on Friday and Saturday and she was a great one at that.
                          On Saturday I finally found a valve cover gasket and oil filter and Andy offered his garage to do the operation. Andy read about my problems with the bike and called me when I was in Williams lake and he even offered to ship the complete rear wheel off of his bike to get me down to Vancouver.(I had already changed the tire at that time, but the random act of kindness was touchy). On Sunday afternoon, we tore the bike apart once again and changed the valve cover gasket along with the tar colored oil in Andy’s garage and had a great time talking about GS motorcycles the whole time.
                          My Sunday host had canceled on me and I had nowhere to go so with Sarah’s help, I found a cheap hostel called the American backpackers in downtown Vancouver. This place was a rundown place, putting it politely. If I concentrated hard enough, I could do a study on rats and other small mammals in their natural habitat. It was $10 and I needed a place to stay so I checked in. The only parking spot was in the back alley and as I was getting my stuff out, I noticed that there was broken window glasses all over the lot so I put on 4 different locks on the bike and started walking in. 15 feet from my bike I heard a window shatters and saw a guy running with something in his hand and that was enough to turn around right there and go back to the bike. I rode the bike right in front of the hostel and chained it under the light but I still didn’t feel completely safe, so I opened the double door of the hostel and moved the bike inside in the front hall. I didn’t care what anyone says, I wasn’t going to move it an inch, no matter what.
                          Besides being a dirty place, this hostel was one of the coolest places I’ve visited in Canada. I made many friends from all over the world and had a great time.
                          On Monday, I managed to get a print shop to do my brochure printings. Thanks to TR Trades Production, LTD, I now have 500 brochures to pass around. Danielle Dongan, the owner of the shop was super helpful and she even tri-folded them before I picked them up. Thank you Danielle, you’re a doll.
                          I spent Monday and Tuesday at Elizabeth’s. My new host was a cutie who rides her yellow JAZZ scooter all over the town and her dream is to do the Tour de Europe on her Bicycle. An explorer at heart, she was smart and very enjoyable to talk to.
                          On Tuesday, I decided to do some fundraising on the rich side of the city, so I setup my display in front of the Starbucks (one of my sponsors) with the help of a pretty and very enthusiastic Persian girl; Natalie (I hope the spelling is right). Natalie provided muffin samples, donation bucket and tables but as the day went by, I realized that it’s hard to get a penny out of this pretentious bunch.
                          5 hours of begging and only $20. That has got to be a new record for me. (I didn’t see one beggar in the whole area, maybe they knew what I didn’t know!) There was a lady who bought a bottle of water for her dog while pushing her $4000 stroller and refused to throw her change in the bucket.(She ate the free sample though.) I watched a parade of Lamborghinis, Mercedes and Ferraris go by with people who had so much but spared so little. When you talked to them they all bitched at the economy, like they were suffering. I suppose they used their helicopters to do the shopping; now they are forced to drive their crapy Rolls-Royces. It’s true when they say that “the less they have, the more they give.”
                          I am leaving for Ferndale, Washington tomorrow. Good to get back to States after all.

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                            #58
                            I will be in Seattle on Thursday the 24th. Anyone got a couch or a backyard for camping? i'll stay in the area throughout the weekend. Let me know. maybe a garage to swap out the clutch springs.

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by shirazdrum View Post
                              I will be in Seattle on Thursday the 24th. Anyone got a couch or a backyard for camping? i'll stay in the area throughout the weekend. Let me know. maybe a garage to swap out the clutch springs.
                              Chris,

                              If you can't find a garage up there, I'll get it done down here. I'll be gone on Monday, should be home after that
                              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                              2007 DRz 400S
                              1999 ATK 490ES
                              1994 DR 350SES

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                                #60
                                Southbound Again...

                                Met Chris at my place last night. Got his oil & fliter changed, BS'ed for awhile over beers in the man-cave.

                                This AM, hit him with a big cuppa joe, and some fresh home-smoked salmon for road snackin', bid him farewell then I headed for work. Wish I could have ridden with him a bit.

                                He was planning to hit Seattle sometime today. Piece of cake.

                                Nice meeting you Chris. Good Luck!

                                - Ted

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