My '82 GS550MZ Refit

[Big T]

1. I don't know what that means, but I'll look it up.

2. What exactly is the difference between a cleaning and a rebuild? I've seen two different type of instruction sets, one when you leave everything attached and on the bar and just spray it, one where it is completely separated and dipped. Is that the difference? So do I not need to buy the dip? Seemed like a waste since I'm only going to use it once anyway.

While I was outside today I pulled one of the plugs just to check it out. I think we can call this fouled, you tell me


I returned the first set of tires I ordered today at a cost of $40. Thats the exact kind of mistake I can no longer make. Will be running all future orders through here before I buy. The new front should arrive today, the rear is still "on order."

total investment so far: $1,190.65

1. Your bike has mechanical valve settings - you take off that cover on the top of the motor and check the clearance with a feeler guage and adjust the screw accordingly to spec
2. Both are essentially cleaning, but spraying the outside is worthless as there are tiny passages that need to be cleaned out. You don't absolutely have to dip them, some people boil them in different solutions - lemon juice, Simple Green or ? (someone just posted about some other product, I can't locate the post)
3. Tires - cheap tires are just that - cheap. $90 to mount 2 tires is really high by local standards ($25/ea)
4. Plugs - show us the inside, not the side

Take a deep breath on this project - you've got a lot to learn, So I recommend you peruse the Tech section (where most of your questions should be posted) and use the Search function for Tires and other subjects. There's a lot to read up on if you want to own a 30 year old bike.

And I agree, don't keep track of what you spend. I can tell you right now that you'll overspend and you'll have to keep the bike forever to amortize your investment. Just imagine what I've spent on mine over 31 years.

break and clutch levers ($12)
instrument cluster ($63)
battery ($54)
$84 for tires, $10 for lens
Spark plugs ($10)
Total investment so far: $1,206.00


Riding a classic motorcycle you put time, money, blood, sweat, and tears into (priceless)



Brad bk

[Larry D]

First of all.....quit adding up everything you're spending. You are not likely to spend less than what the bike is worth to get it running and riding properly. Although you do have one of more desireable models.....IMHO

As for the carbs.....do this, it's all you need to do.....period...you can call it whatever you want.

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

When you buy a +-20 year old bike, it's going to need some money to get it roadworthy. After the initial expenditures, you'll be set...except for tires, brake pads, maybe a cable or two.......The point is that, these bikes are not new. You cannot expect to jump on it and ride, unless someone else has already done the maintenence required.

I have close to $2000 in my 750.....I think....h*ll, it could be more than that, and I couldn't sell it for $800 today.

The only way to break even on one of these bikes is to find it in someone's garage and he lets you have it for next to nothing. It generally takes +-$600 to get an older bike up and running right....after you buy it.

Do it because you love the bike......you'll never break even.

another question: How hard is it to put tires on yourself? I bought tires that cost less then the cost of the install (tires - $84 for the set, install - $90 for the set).

It looks mess, and I don't know that I want to mess with taking the breaks apart.

I don't think I am going to do this part of the project myself, but I was curious.

I'm willing to bet the horn button above will fit your 550. If it doesn't, I"ll buy it from you and pay double shipping to get it to my house!

I'm going to wait till everything is up and running well before I order anything else. No need to spend the loot on a horn if I'm not on the road...lol. But I will try this when I get that far and let you know.

You've got all winter to get it sorted out, so be patient

1. Don't forget to adjust the valve clearances before troubleshooting engine issues
2. Running on 3 and dying out are classic symptoms of clogged carbs - remember, you're cleaning them,putting on new O rings, then adjusting the float height and setting the mixture screw - don't get confused by folks calling this a "rebuild"
3. Yep, it'll seem like a money pit, but once you solve a few issues, it will provide you with years of service

1. I don't know what that means, but I'll look it up.

2. What exactly is the difference between a cleaning and a rebuild? I've seen two different type of instruction sets, one when you leave everything attached and on the bar and just spray it, one where it is completely separated and dipped. Is that the difference? So do I not need to buy the dip? Seemed like a waste since I'm only going to use it once anyway.

While I was outside today I pulled one of the plugs just to check it out. I think we can call this fouled, you tell me


I returned the first set of tires I ordered today at a cost of $40. Thats the exact kind of mistake I can no longer make. Will be running all future orders through here before I buy. The new front should arrive today, the rear is still "on order."

total investment so far: $1,190.65

[Big T]

You've got all winter to get it sorted out, so be patient

1. Don't forget to adjust the valve clearances before troubleshooting engine issues
2. Running on 3 and dying out are classic symptoms of clogged carbs - remember, you're cleaning them,putting on new O rings, then adjusting the float height and setting the mixture screw - don't get confused by folks calling this a "rebuild"
3. Yep, it'll seem like a money pit, but once you solve a few issues, it will provide you with years of service

[gs scott]

Question: Is it possible to buy the horn button for the left hand control? Everything else works on it, there is just no button there for the horn.

I have an 82 1000, and one day, many moons ago (maybe 86), I was out for a ride and stopped at a buddy's softball game. Watched the game, etc. I went to leave and - no starter button (without a kick start..) I looked down and there it was on the ground so I picked it up, placed it in the hole, pressed the button, and she fired up and brought me home (with the button in my pocket.)

After getting home, I called the dealer (before the internet days) and he had a replacement button.

Today, paging through the internet, I didn't see those parts listed under the 82 550, but they are still there listed under the 1000.

Horn - 37311 - 49000
Starter - 37312 - 49000

I'm willing to bet the horn button above will fit your 550. If it doesn't, I"ll buy it from you and pay double shipping to get it to my house!

Thanks!

thanks for the kind words, advice, and encouragement. I ordered the o-rings so I guess I'm going to take a swing at it now.

Here is my plan of attack as I wait for the rings.

Wednesday I will put the new plugs in and fire it up one last time. I'm pretty sure the current plugs are fouled, so I want to see if this gets the other cylinder firing.

Once that is done I will drain the oil and gasoline. Take off the carbs and get them ready for cleaning.

While the bike is disassembled I will take a run at doing the cluster repair as well.

Question: Is it possible to buy the horn button for the left hand control? Everything else works on it, there is just no button there for the horn.

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Scott has nailed it about hangin' in there. Chip away at it and address one issue at a time until you have solved the problem, yes it may take some time and a few beers but it can be done. Good luck with it, cheers.

[gs scott]

550 Kat

Hang tough, troubleshooting a 27 (soon to be 28) year old motorcycle takes a little time and patience. And, when all you have is a symptom, it takes a process of ruling things out before you find the cure (usually this goes least expensive to most expensive and everyone hopes to finish before you get to the most expensive!)

But you've got a fairly rare 550 that's a lot of fun to blast around on! There are a lot of folks in the forum in PA - maybe someone local is willing to provide some on site encouragement in exchange for cold beverages.

The gas leak is probably coming from a stuck float valve in one of the carbs - maybe that carb is the one feeding the cyclinder who's exhaust pipe isn't getting hot (because there's nothing to burn in there.) When you know which cylinder isn't firing, check that plug for signs for fuel fouling. No fuel, no bang, no heat. If it's not fuel, next item to check is spark - no spark, no bang, no heat. That could be wires, coils or the plug. But the gas leak seems to indicate a need for a carb cleaning. Doing it yourself is mostly labor and maybe a gasket or two. Having the shop do it is about $250 in PA ($400 in Boston area.)

Time and patience, a good manual, and lots of friends in a friendly, helpful forum. Hang tough, you're almost there!!

Ordered

Viton Intake O-ring set, large 1 $3.91
Mikuni CV BS series carb O-ring kit, U.S. Shipping 1 $14.73
Mikuni CV carb bowl drain O-ring set 1 $0.01

total so far: 1123.65

Don't waste your money on carb kits. Clean them instead, and get new carb and intake boot o-rings for about $20 from www.cycleorings.com .

Do I have the BS or VM type?

Nevermind, figured that one out by actually reading the site...lol thanks, ordered.

Let me try asking a couple of questions and maybe I'll have a better understanding of where I am. I have the manual, and like many of the discussions in this forum, and the carbs 101 walkthrough, it assumes a lot of knowledge that I do not currently have.

Problem: I am leaking gas and bike stalls when choke is off, or throttle is blipped.

There are a couple of things I want to find out. Like, where is the gas leak coming from. My worry is that fuel is getting into the engine, and I am nervous about running the bike if this is the case.

I am pretty sure that the 2nd cylinder is not firing. I will install the new plugs wednesday to find out if that is one issue.

Question: what is the best/safest way to drain the fuel? How do I dispose of the fuel once removed? Is there a right/wrong way to remove the tank? the manual does not address remedial issues.

Instead of just ripping everything apart in hopes to find an answer, I'd like to trouble shoot problems. For instance, if it is a petcock problem this should be the behavior, if it is in fact the carbs, this should be the behavior, etc.

[Griffin]

Don't waste your money on carb kits. Clean them instead, and get new carb and intake boot o-rings for about $20 from www.cycleorings.com .