First Bike - GS650G - Rusty Crusty

[Eric4]

Thanks for the reply! Right now I've got the spark plugs out, and figured diagnosing the starter would be the first step. I'm sure you're right about the carbs being inoperable in their state.

The bike is definitely in Neutral, as all the gear lights work (except N), so I can determine it's between 1 and 2. The fact that there's no Neutral light on the cluster sounds like it's a Neutral Safety Switch?

If I can get the starter crankin', then I'll check for spark.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

No. Neutral light has nothing to do with the clutch safety switch. Do you have a factory service manual and a wiring diagram?

[Eric4]

No. Neutral light has nothing to do with the neutral safety switch. Do you have a factory service manual and a wiring diagram?

I do have the .pdf of the FSM and wiring diagram. The diagram is a bit low-res, but I think I can decipher it still. Unfortunately I haven't much experience with electrical work, so this type of diagnosis might take me a bit longer than for some...

Since ya think I can skip out on the neutral safety switch, I'll disassemble the headlight and start to check continuity in the switches. As well as try to bypass the solenoid.

Thanks for the insight!

[oldGSfan]

As someone on a Brit show said, that's a difficult wank!

[Rich82GS750TZ]

“challenging wank”. It was Sean Lock (RIP) on 8 out of 10 Cats Does Countdown. One of my favorites. And yes Rachel Riley is hot no matter what she’s wearing.

[rphillips]

There are 2 small wires coming out of your clutch lever, connecting those 2 wires, no matter how or where, will by-pass the clutch switch... Simple to follow the clutch switch wires to where they plug into the harness, not sure if under tank or inside headlight, unplug the switch wires and just plug the 2 wires at the harness together.

[Eric4]

There are 2 small wires coming out of your clutch lever, connecting those 2 wires, no matter how or where, will by-pass the clutch switch... Simple to follow the clutch switch wires to where they plug into the harness, not sure if under tank or inside headlight, unplug the switch wires and just plug the 2 wires at the harness together.

I opened up the headlight, to expose the harness. Followed the clutch switch wires, and looped them together (on the main harness side) but still didn't get any sign of life when pressing the starter button.

Then shorted out the starter relay with a screwdriver and she cranked over!

Threw in a spark plug and grounded it on the cylinder...SPARK!

I'm about out of daylight for today, but I'd consider it progress...

Since shorting out the relay provided a crank, is that safe to assume that a replacement relay should be in order? I cleaned the contacts and it didn't seem to make a difference...

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Does not mean starter solenoid (relay) is bad. Could mean you don’t have 12V coming into and/or leaving the start button when you press it. You likely have a lot of electrical connections to clean up. Like, all of them. Need a voltmeter and get to testing.

[Eric4]

Does not mean starter solenoid (relay) is bad. Could mean you don’t have 12V coming into and/or leaving the start button when you press it. You likely have a lot of electrical connections to clean up. Like, all of them. Need a voltmeter and get to testing.

That makes sense! I'll dig up my dielectric grease and start testing, the next chance I get. I appreciate y'alls help!

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Grease is not a cleaner

[Eric4]

Grease is not a cleaner

Yes, I know...but it's good to use on clean contacts in my (limited) experience. I've got some steel pipe cleaners that should work on cleaning these connectors

[Eric4]

Had a little time with the bike today, removing the carburetors, UNI air filter, and diagnosing the starter switch. The continuity wasn't reading on the switch, so I disassembled it and cleaned the contacts. Viola, she cranks.

Question about carburetor rebuild kits - is OEM a significant bump in quality, to justify a 5-10x cost increase? Since this is a 'junker' bike, would I get away with a cheaper rebuild? Or is the quality so junk that it isn't worth my time?

Cheers!
Eric

[Rich82GS750TZ]

See top 10 newbie mistakes thread. Kits are generally considered no good. OEM is best, get an oring kit from Nessism and follow his (Ed Ness) CV carb rebuild/cleaning tutorial found on BikeCliffs website fully, no shortcuts.