Charging/wiring issues

[Hays1981gs1100e]

81 gs1100E put in new stator and regulator rectifier last year and ran great. Light got a little dim at idle but otherwise good. Last week it just stopped charging the battery and I barely made it home. Trouble shooting wires cleaning connections. With multimeter I tested wires coming from stator got no reading but noticed wires were getting hot. Which confused me because if its not getting any voltage how can it be getting hot. So disconnected 2 of the 3 yellow legs from the stator that were getting hot and once disconnected are now producing voltage. Immediately I could hear the difference in the bike is running smoother. Disconnect the 3rd leg from the r/r and now I'm not getting any power thru them again. Question is one of the legs shorted to ground then? Also have a white with red tracer wire that was ran to one of the legs was getting hot so I unhooked it can so.eone tell me where that's supposed to go please? Also this light green with white tracer wire. Any help is appreciated thank you and I hope this makes sense.

[Nessism]

Disconnect the stator from the system. Start up bike and rev to 5000 rpm, while checking AC voltage between each wire combination. A good stator should put out 75 VAC between each pair.

Concurrent to that, buy a Shindengen SH775 R/R, and a Triumph adapter harness.

Install per this diagram, and check voltage. You should use a fully charged battery when testing, and get between 14-14.5 VAC at the battery. If the stator is weak, replace it.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

[lizzywhite45]

If disconnecting two stator wires gives you voltage and smoother running, that’s a good sign one of the legs is shorted or damaged.

Try testing AC output directly from the stator with it unplugged, check between each yellow wire at around 5k RPM. You should see about 70 volts across each pair. If not, the stator's likely the issue.

That white with red wire doesn’t sound stock for charging, so I’d trace it before reconnecting. The green with white is probably part of the lighting circuit.

If the stator checks out, might be worth looking into a more reliable regulator setup.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Install per this diagram, and check voltage. You should use a fully charged battery when testing, and get between 14-14.5 VAC at the battery. If the stator is weak, replace it.

Not one to correct someone with the knowledge and patience of Ed, but I know he meant write:
“Install per this diagram, and check voltage. You should use a fully charged battery when testing, and get between 14-14.5 VDC at the battery. If the stator is weak, replace it.

And you need a wiring diagram. This is not your bike.

https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/GS750_schematic_color.pdf

But I chose it because it’s close enough and it’s color, very clean, and easy to see what happens to the stator (A.C. Generator) wires in the original configuration As they leave the stator, two wires go directly to the RR. The W/G leaves the stator and travels to the lighting control group (left hand), changes to W/R, then connects to the RR. This is the loop that you will eliminate by connecting all 3 stator wires directly to the RR.

[Nessism]

Not one to correct someone with the knowledge and patience of Ed, but I now he meant write:
“Install per this diagram, and check voltage. You should use a fully charged battery when testing, and get between 14-14.5 VDC at the battery. If the stator is weak, replace it.

Thanks, Rich. You are my guardian angel! Thanks for the correction.