Fzr 1000

[niclpnut]

Have you pulled apart the EXUP valve yet?

Exup valve is a non issue.

The bike came with a full ss V&H exhaust system.

I just need to verify the jetting for the pods and pipe.

Nic

[GateKeeper]

Going to follow your build here, I just picked up a 1985 FZ750 that will get the restore touch, just back to stock, so I am going to use your thread for inspiration....

I just wish mine was in as good condition to start with, and the blue bike Spyug is going to work on is even more worse off.....

Good luck on your build....

.

[still_bluenoser]

Exup valve is a non issue.

The bike came with a full ss V&H exhaust system.

I just need to verify the jetting for the pods and pipe.

Nic

Missed that. I like the EXUP myself, but once it doesn't want to move, your better off getting rid of it... I guess one of the PO's already got to that point.

Very nice bike, perfect road bike.

[niclpnut]

Got the front end back together.

Ran into a couple problems though. Was missing the handle bar plastic/rubber dampners which help the clipons stay in position and limit vibration. Luckily i found a set from a local salvage yard.

Additionally, I think the top triple clamp seems to have been damaged when the PO tried to lower the front end. The clamps are still loose on the upper portion of the forks. Even when fully tightened they will not clamp onto the fork securely. Not sure if they got stretched out or what.

For that matter, since the top triple will not clamp fully the clip ons feel loose and will wiggle ever so slightly. Guess I'm going to have to try and find a new top triple somewhere. Need one from a 91-93. Pre 91 is RSU forks and they have a smaller diameter. The 94-95 triple (crown) has a different part number. They look the same in the fisch but could be that the 94-95 forks are a different diameter .

Don't feel safe till I get that figured out as the lower triple clamps are the only ones actually holding the fork in.


Shiny new front fender looks good though.

Still have some work to do on the nose fairing:

Right edge facing the bike has some cracks which will be plastiwelded/ epoxied.



Broken piece off at the mirror mount. and on the lower wing.




i plan on using some semi rigid lexan plastic to cut and shape the missing pieces using the opposite sides as mirror images and then plastiwelding with steal mesh on the reverse for support.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Started a little work on the nose fairing. Started with the broken bit by the mirror mount. For the missing piece I used the other side as a guide then cut a new piece from lexan plastic and plastic weld/glued it. Little bit of sanding and clean up then I'll attach it to the rest of the fairing.




The piece broken and missing on the bottom will be harder. It is curved. I tested some bending with the lexan plastic I have and my heat gun, but can't get it to work.

Almost think making some kind of a mold, forming the plastic that way would work better.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Got the carbs put back together and fitted the used set of K&N filters.




I reused the Float bowl gaskets and the special O-rings that sit under the jet tower since I'm still waiting on the new O-ring kits to arrive.

I had some time so I decided to see If it would fire up as is.

Put the carbs on, and went to hit the starter button, but the battery was low

After giving it a good charge I was happily surprised to hear it rumble to life on literally the first hit of the starter button! Amazing what a good carb cleaning and a valve adjustment can do eh!? The engine was also noticeably more quiet with good oil and the valve adjustment.

Fuel did leak from the float bowls but I kinda figured that would happen since the gaskets are old.


There was a good burst of smoke from the exhaust initially from old fuel and what not in the combustion chambers but once the idle stabilized it sounded great.

Need to sync the carbs etc and am having some hanging idle after a blip of the throttle, but those are kinks I'm used to working through.

The screws for the manifold clamps were all kinda buggered from the PO. The angles are tough to tighten them down with a screw driver, so I went to True Value and got some Allen Head bolts as replacements to ensure the manifolds are nice and tight!



Hopefully I can get running videos shot once the carb kits come next week.


Nic

[niclpnut]

Got the carbs finished up and reinstalled. New plugs also.

Much different from working on the GS's. Sure not alot of room to maneuver. Challenge in and of itself just to get the plugs changed out lol.

Fired it up and it came to life. The GS engines can be noisy if the carbs are out of sync and the FZR was no exception.

Balanced the carbs then worked on the mixture screws. I'm right at 3 turns out atm and it seems to be running well. #3 was way off but finally got it about right. Was lean to start and the idle was hanging.

Initial sync with the trusty morgan. The fzr takes the larger sync adapters:



After tweaking the mixture screws it was drawing much better.

Tried to get a running video but photobucket is not liking the file type that my phone saved it as.


Hopefully the weather will warm up some so I can take it out for a spin. Plug chops would be very difficult to do. I'd basically have to remove the coil bracket just to get to the plugs so I'm thinking this one will be going down to the shop for a dyno run/tune.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Found a source for complete carb kits with all the gaskets and o-rings (even those not supplied by most manufacturers) AFTER I had bit the bullet and purchased OEM gaskets and carb kits from another company

http://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR1000.html

$53 complete vs the $80 or so I spent.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Little progress on the fairing.

I picked up some JB Weld epoxy plastic weld putty to join the broken upper left mirror mount portion to the rest of the fairing. The product can be sanded, painted and won't shrink.

I started by straightening the break by sanding it down flat. I needed to fill about 2mm gap so the mirror mount would align properly with the windscreen.

The putty was easy to work with and seems to have done the job. It stinks though The set time is approximately 30 minutes. I kneaded a bit of the putty together and made a 3mm roll. I had previously taped the two pieces together so I knew exactly the space I needed so everything would line up.

I pressed them together with packing tape on the face side of the fairing and pushed the rest in place on the reverse side to help it all hold.

Had to hold it in place for about 15 min before I dared move it, then I wrapped it all up tight in place with more packing tape.

The tape removed easily and didn't adhere to the putty:









Now just need to sand everything flat. May need to use a touch more putty to fill a small dimple on the face side of the joint that I didn't press in enough.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Oh and you all get to enjoy my kids artwork in the background!

Nic

[niclpnut]

Admittedly I'm new to hydraulic clutches as all my other bikes are older and are cable operated.

However, I understand how they work and feel comfortable with the inner workings.

That being said this is where I am at.

The bike has been sitting for some time now since I set the valve gaps and cleaned the carbs. Today with the weather great and me off work, I decided to get it out for some initial tuning runs.

I noticed right off that the clutch lever had no feeling so I bled the system, and got pressure back. It engaged fine and shifted as it should. Got back to the garage and checked the fluid which was a bit low, and the master reservoir was dirty so I removed the master and slave and flushed and cleaned the system.

Now after refitting, refilling and bleeding the system again I've got good feeling on the lever however, when I put it in gear from neutral, it stalls. Doesn't really jump or anything as if the clutch was still engaged but simply dies.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Well, might have found the problem putzing around the other fzr forums.

There is a kickstand safety switch that will not allow the bike to be run in gear if its open.

It may have gone out or be gunked up. Will have to check that out tomorrow.

Nic

[Tim Tom]

Glad you found the problem and hopefully not too complicated! These new fangled bikes and their safety shut off switches

[niclpnut]

With the kickstand switch issue resolved, I was able to continue with some more tuning.

I was having some problems with the bike being overly rich. Quite literally, if I gave it any throttle at all it would bog and want to die.

I started out with the recomended dynojet settings for the stage 3 kit since I'm running SS Vance and hines exhaust and K&N twin pod filters.

Pulled the carbs to recheck the jetting and discovered that the PO had 138 main jets installed and not the recomended dynojet 128 jets No idea how it ever ran with that set up.

Got ahold of some dj 128 and started with the needle on the 4th clip down. Still crazy rich issues. Bike would bog with throttle past 1/8-1/4 turn.

I wanted to start tuning the main jet first as per the factory pro tuning guide but i couldnt even get it into the mid range lol. Pulled the carbs and moved the needle down. Still had richness issues, so I finally put it in the top clip and removed the dj spacer which sank the needle down as far as it would go. AND weeeeeeee. Still have a slight stumble from a roll on at 2-3k but the bike pulls amazingly from 7k-redline at WoT cold or hot. Also, once past the stumble at 3k it pulls crazy strong from 5-7k at WoT. So I'm pretty sure Ive got the main and needle settings pretty close.


Tuning runs were done up a long steep hill close to my fathers house and once I reached the top I actually had some air time . This thing is fast fast fast.


Next step will be to lean out the bottom end slightly by adjusting the float level from the recomemded stock 13-14mm to 15mm and that should help to eliminate the stumble at 3k.

Pics to come.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Interestingly the dynojet kit for the FZR uses smaller main jets than stock and has a small "pin" that is used to block off the main air jet.

I was told by a member of the FZR archives forum that since I don't have the exup valve that I would never fully eliminate the stumble at 3k.

There are lots of guys who put full SS pipes on their fzrs and I find it hard to believe that you cant tune the bike properly without the exup
...Guess I'm out to prove him wrong


This forum remains one of the best resources for information out there. Too bad I can't find a fzr forum to even come close to this one!


Nic