1981 Kawasaki GPz550: Restoration

[koolaid_kid]

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/4388179899.html
" the picture is google but it does look similar besides the front plastic is missing"
Right, it looks so good I am not even going to show you a picture of it.

[83GS1100E_Tornado]

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/4389515112.html

[srsupertrap]

Found this one Steve - http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mpo/4378716512.html

Thank you cowboyup 337, I appreciate your help sir.

Great build

Thanks Joe. I wish I was painting but no where well equipped as Ed or Larry.

What are you waiting for?

That's the best one, don't like the shipping cost for 1 state over. There a dime a dozen since the clutch hub is interchangeable with EX500's, KL600's etc

[srsupertrap]

The patient returned today from an extended stay @ Klemme Performance. Looks a little pale right now. I can take it from here.





Weld repair shown for those who are following

[SVSooke]

That's the best one, don't like the shipping cost for 1 state over. There a dime a dozen since the clutch hub is interchangeable with EX500's, KL600's etc[/QUOTE]
LOL you should see how much I'd have to payTop end is looking good!

[srsupertrap]

While awaiting for my VHT engine paint to arrive I decided to redo the frame too. I had planned on coal slag blasting the frame outside today but Colorado Springs temperature dropped from 70F on Saturday to 30s on Sunday with 6 inches of snow expected between Sunday-Monday morning



I cannot figure how to remove the seat lock mechanism even after removing the one bolt (aft) which secures it.

The frame bracket encompasses the lock mechanism so there is no room for the seat lock mechanism to drop down & out. The lock cylinder jams against the frame member shown below. There is a frame tab which shows signs of having been bent

Ed was your 81 KZ750 seat lock mechanism similar?

[Nessism]

Steve,

There is one screw one one side of the lock, and a square protrusion piece cast into the lock body that engages a notch in the frame bracket. You need to pull the lock slightly outboard of it's seated position, until the protrusion comes clear of the notch, then down and out.

[srsupertrap]

Steve,

There is one screw one one side of the lock, and a square protrusion piece cast into the lock body that engages a notch in the frame bracket. You need to pull the lock slightly outboard of it's seated position, until the protrusion comes clear of the notch, then down and out.

This lock mechanism does not have a screw but it has the square block on the casting which slides into a notch in the frame bracket as you mentioned. This is the only way it can go in or out. So I pulled the lock mechanism outward & down but the lock mechanism cylinder & mounting tab jam into the frame. A picture is worth a . . .

First pic shows lock mechanism out of the notch in the frame bracket but with no room to swing out because the cylinder is resting on the frame as is the lock mechanism mounting tab (90 to cylinder)

This photo shows the lack of real estate. The cylinder is contacting the frame as is the mounting tab. If I move the lock cylinder up and try to swing it out the square block goes back into the frame notch preventing any rotational movement.



With the lock mechanism pulled down there is lots of the mechanism sandwhiched between the bracket as shown. Since the frame is painted it must have been installed but right now I don't know how. The lock mechanism is not covered in the Repair Manual. I am guessing that notch in the frame bracket might have been bent out because its not on the same plane as the rest of the bracket. Not a very good DFM design unless its my day to be stupid

[Nessism]

The frame tab that engages with square protrusion on the lock, looks bent. Bend it straight and the lock will drop free. Oh, and there is a screw that holds the lock to the frame, I can see the threaded hole in the lock and notch in the frame.

[srsupertrap]

This last weekend I decided to blast the frame and other parts outside my garage. The total loss blasting method is not efficient (sucks) and coupled with a small compressor I made very little progress. Even with safety glasses & respirator the coal slag particulate works it way into every nook & cranny possible. Took just as long to clean the grit out of my hair etc.


Saw this thing for sale on C/L for $75 but its located @ Fort Carson Army base and I never received a reply. Probably sold or deployed


Plan B: Contacted four local powder coater and asked for RFQ's for the following. Without seeing the parts I got a quote of $200 - 250 up to $400. I will see what they say once they see the pics

[srsupertrap]

Masked some engine parts last week but weather was wintery


Painted parts today with VHT SP 148 Engine Primer & VHT SP 139 GM Satin Black





Used one can to spray the head & cylinder.


Bake at 200F for 1 Hr

[koolaid_kid]

Smell good while they bake don't they?
LOL. Looking good.

[nvr2old]

You've been extremely patient and diligent on this build, Steve. No cut corners at all. Can't wait to see the finished results. These bikes are SO cool.

[Big T]

Don't forget to remove the paint from the fin edges on the cylinder head if you want that OEM appearance

I just used a flat file

[jwhelan65]

Cant wait to see this thing..!