1992 GSX1100G clutch

[GS1000G Shopper]

I based this decision on my GS experience. I'm running 3x EBC springs and 3x OEM springs in the red GS1000 and it is about a perfect mix of effort at the lever and clamping.

I am not impressed with what looks like a mediocre setup for an engine that makes more power than the 8V GS1000. Other GSX engines used a coil spring setup similar to the 8V GS. I could convert the basket to that type of setup for $160 or so, but do not think it is needed for my riding style.

The last thing I want to do is to have to do this again in a year or two. I'm not hard on clutches, but am of the school of thought if doing something complex like this, do it right.

Partzilla sells the Barnett springs also, so I have asked about just buying that one instead. They have the friction disks in stock.

I don't participate on the US GSX-G message list- it is too difficult to read messages. It's not a forum like this one where it is easy to see who said what.

[rphillips]

Not sure of your riding style, but the known clutch problems Suzuki has had, I personally haven't seen them in bikes that weren't ridden very hard, almost to say they had to be abused or the stock clutch & springs were fine. Just my opinion

[GS1000G Shopper]

I likely could use the OEM springs and never see a problem, but as noted, while I've got it apart I'd rather use the better parts, or in this case a mix of the two.

[rustybronco]

Don't neglect measuring the steels for flatness as long as it's apart.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Steels checked out OK. I made a mistake when I first put it together by not soaking the disks and had 0 engagement. I soaked them overnight in 10w40 and made sure they were apart so they could fully soak (put them in a cut off 1 gallon oil container).

Put it back together tonight and it barely engages. Trying to ride it above 5 MPH is impossible.

I doubled checked the parts schematic and everything went back in the way it came out. The only other thing I can think of is mixing the springs. I'll pull it apart again and try both EBC springs.

[rphillips]

keep us imformed, thanks

[GS1000G Shopper]

I discovered I had reversed the order of the disks- I put a friction disk in first. This morning I reversed them to the correct order (steel-friction etc) and used both of the EBC springs. Still a no go, it will move but if you give it any amount of throttle it slips.

Since some of the steel plates have imprints on them, I'm going to replace them and have ordered a set of aftermarket plates.

If that does not work, I'll return it all and buy a stock setup, or possibly a Track King one at the GSX zone (not bad for pricing). They also sell a coil spring conversion setup.

My best guess is the EBC disks are just too thin. I removed 10 and replaced 10, so the correct number are in there. I'll measure them when I pull it apart again.

[Guest]

Slipper?

You made a stainless steel push rod. Did you check the length??? Maybe the "original" rod you found was actually not the correct one? Try shortening the original first and see if it still slips.
G

[GS1000G Shopper]

Yes I did. It was within .001 of the original, and as I recall actually shorter. The setup worked fine until the disks delaminated. If it had been too long, the slipping would have been pronounced from the start.

[Guest]

Try putting a third diaphragm spring in and see.
G

[Guest]

Oh, and check the inner hub to be certain it's not loose and/or the nut hasn't backed out.
And try with out the push rod as well. It could put pressure as the engine warms as it expands.
G

[GS1000G Shopper]

Try putting a third diaphragm spring in and see.

Oh, and check the inner hub to be certain it's not loose and/or the nut hasn't backed out.
And try with out the push rod as well. It could put pressure as the engine warms as it expands.
G

The lever effort seems higher with the two EBC springs. I don't think adding another is the solution. I will measure the EBC disks when I pull it apart.

I'll check the small nut you mentioned. Not sure how I can try it w/o the pushrod? Do you mean start it in gear on the center stand and apply the rear brake?

Estimated ship date on the steel plates went from today to Monday.

[Guest]

Try

Yes, try the start in top gear while on the center stand and use the rear brake and see.
And, you could also try an extra plate using one of the better old fiber plates adn maybe an extra steel as well. It seems like something is "bottoming out" and preventing the plates from being compressed completely.
I also check the nut that holds the inner to the input shaft as if it's loose, the pusher assembly will not go all the way down. Note, I believe the bearing on teh pusher is the same on all the Suzuki's. Or the pressure plate is bottoming out on teh inner. Check it all when you get it apart. I hope you have the Big socket for it.
Laters
G

[GS1000G Shopper]

After checking the above, I did what I should have done before installing the EBC disks- measured them. Spec is 2.52 mm to 2.68 mm thick.

Several were below 2.50 mm, some were right at 2.52 and others were around 2.56.

I have contacted Partzilla to see about a return. I'm going to go with OEM parts.

[Guest]

Too Thin?

How about adding a few more plates then since they seem to be too thin?
This would let the pressure plate bottom on the inner and then no pressure on the plates themselves and a little slippage. Oh, if you do try the engine and braking trick, plug up the pushrod hole under the clutch slave. Don't want any leakage.
G